Drilling Hole IN I Frame

1L243 wrote:
I was wrong there are some holes where they ran the slide mechanism through the frame. They cut 3" holes and welded a plate over them.

Your suggestions are good ones. As I wait for the Silicone to dry on the Tornado head I will need to decide If I want to use the flush mount inlet on the side of the trailer where I need to drill the 3/4" hole in the I Frame. It would be in the center of the frame just behind the front axle leaf spring hanger bracket. If I can't cut the hole in the frame I will have to mount a bracket under the I Frame...

With that being said, it wouldn't hurt to go just a shade bigger and install a grommet in the hole to prevent your water line from rubbing the edge of the hole.

I was wrong there are some holes where they ran the slide mechanism through the frame. They cut 3" holes and welded a plate over them.

Your suggestions are good ones. As I wait for the Silicone to dry on the Tornado head I will need to decide If I want to use the flush mount inlet on the side of the trailer where I need to drill the 3/4" hole in the I Frame. It would be in the center of the frame just behind the front axle leaf spring hanger bracket. If I can't cut the hole in the frame I will have to mount a bracket under the I Frame...

1L243 wrote:
I was planning on using a flush mount water inlet not the one that comes with it to make it look more like a factory installation.

You are lucky not to have an enclosed underbelly, lol! Makes it easy to run pipe wherever you need to.

One suggestion would be to get a piece of 1/8" steel and cut it to about 5 1/5" x 2" and fold it in a vise at 2" from the end so that it can be attached to the bottom of the I-beam. Could cut it round to match the round shape of a city water inlet to make it a bit more professional looking.

Instead of a city water inlet, if mounting under the frame, you could use a female hose adapter with 1/2" pipe thread. Use a 1/2" thread bulkhead adapter to mount the hose adapter. Use a short piece of 2x2 angle to mount the bulkhead adapter to and attach that to the I-beam. Then use a 1/2" PEX to 1/2" female thread adapter. Use a garden hose dust cap.

If it were me, I'd use PEX because it will bend and flex as needed whereas PVC is rigid.

A vacuum breaker needs to be installed to prevent contamination of the city water supply. Should be able to run pipe to a suitable location where you can poke up through the floor to the rear of a cabinet or behind a bank of drawers.

I was planning on using a flush mount water inlet not the one that comes with it to make it look more like a factory installation.

I was going to install the Tornado device in the tank and hard plumb the water line using 1/2 pvc or pex tubing. I also was thinking of using clear braided tubing.

My black tank is open with no coroplast covering but the bottom of the trailer is sealed above the tank with a fiberglass mesh and I really don't want to cut through it.

The hole I need to drill in the frame is just forward of the front axle. I don't think it would be a issue. the I frame is 10" but it has absolutely no holes in it.....

Now I am beginning to think I am making it way harder than I need to..

You should see some of the big holes they hack through the frame for the slide mechanism - like ours for example. But why would you need to do that? I would take down the underbelly or do whatever else is needed to route it without touching the frame.

What is making you think you need to go through the frame? Is it because of where you need to mount the threaded hose fitting? That could be mounted directly to the underside of the I-beam. The in-tank rinser water inlet fittings are usually mounted above the floor level and there is an anti-siphon valve inside a cabinet a couple of feet off the floor (which you do need).

If you still think you need to make an opening in the frame, I would say do it as close as you can to the rear as you can and not near the axles when there is more stress on the frame. Also keep the hole as small as possible.

1L243 wrote:
I am in the process of installing a black tank flush kit. There is no access to the side of the trailer for the Black Tank rinse inlet unless I drill a hole in the 10" I frame. Can I drill a 3/4 hole in the I frame without weakening any structural integrity to the frame?

No it shouldn't, a bigger hole 2-3" in diameter should have a larger plate put on it with same sized hole of course. Drilling holes in I-beams is done all the time with no affects to structural ability.
I'm not an expert but I am retired from the sheet metal industry and have a lot experience with structural steel also and with what engineers require.

I would drill a 1" hole or larger but not close to a edge...it doesn't need to be centered.

Mine has giant holes drilled for the slide mechanism.... 3/4" should be a non-issue.

No RV frame is high tensile steel. Just plain old hot rolled. drill where you want to but keep the hole centered in the web, equal-distance from the flanges.

newman fulltimer wrote:
bet if you cut a hole in the undercover and see a way to drill upwards you cann find a way

Lol