g6a-7e water heater question

Thanks again for everyone's help. I have hot water now!! I am just wait in now to see how long the flame stays on. It has been 30 minutes and I can't remember if it was on that long before.

Dmbaker07 wrote:
since I had 12v on both side of tsat I tested the board with a manual I found online. it looks like the valve track portion of the board is bad. all other tracks show continuity.

You found the problem.:) I used the online manual to check my board and it showed it was broken. I ordered a dinosaur board from ASAP, 5 minute install, and it fired right up first time and worked much better then the OEM board ever since.

If you do order a dinosaur board, order the box with it. You need to be very careful when you attach it so the screws will not puncture the tank. Using the old screws and the box will/should eliminate that possibility.

since I had 12v on both side of tsat I tested the board with a manual I found online. it looks like the valve track portion of the board is bad. all other tracks show continuity.

Dmbaker07 wrote:
With switch on, brown has 12v on both side of what looks like a fusible link.

OK..thermal cut off (thermal fuses good)

NOW is there 12V DC on both sides of t-stat?

IF YES

Continue to trace 12V..until NO 12V

Follow diagram

With switch on, brown has 12v on both side of what looks like a fusible link.

Water heater 12V DC power is feed from a 'fused' circuit in DC Dist Panel

From panel DC goes to ON/OFF switch >>>>> thermalfuse >>>>>> t-stat >>>> control module >>>>> ECO/Hi T-stat >>>>> Gas valve

Fault light won't come on if no DC voltage getting to control module

No DC power getting to control module then no fault light
Blown Fuse in DC Dist Panel
Bad contacts On/Off Switch
Blown thermal cut-off (thermalfuse)
Bad t-stat or contacts
Bad control module if 12V DC is getting to it via Brown wire

OR bad ground connections.....circuit not being completed.


On Edit:
Found wiring diagram for your model. Check for 12V DC on Brown wire with switch ON. Trace it out.

I had a WH problem before and called a local mobile rv tech and he walked me through a few test to determine I had a bad circuit board. I repaired it myself but would have scheduled with him if it didn't work out.. It's usually about $75 for a trip charge, but better than taking in to a dealer and waiting weeks.

Thanks to everyone for trying to help. No luck with any of the above. I may need a new board. I hate to part swap without knowing. I see a lot of post online saying that the red light stays on. I have not found many where the light does not come on at all.

Atwood.......turn switch OFF. Then in outside compartment just above burner is a thermalfuse (it is connected to brown wires...from circuit board to t-stat connector)
Remove it and connect brown wire from circuit board directly to t-stat terminal. Go turn switch ON.
If it fires/lights then you need a new 'thermalfuse' It is a one shot safety device...trips when flame blows out of combustion chamber due to dirty/obstructions (usually spider webs etc.)

I will try both tomorrow morning, thank you for the replies!