Hi all, I have a 30x34 concrete pad where I plan on putting a large garage that will double as RV storage. I've done a lot of research and I'm leaning toward a "P-Model" metal building for both price and longevity.Something like this:The sidewalls of this unit are only 12 feet. The roof peak is 16 feet. My RV door will be on the side of the garage. I'm sure this will be enough space to store the RV, but I don't know if it's enough to be able to work on it. Current RV has a clearance of about 10'8", but I know I should plan for the future as well.The guy at the metal building factory said that people sometimes build the side walls up using cinderblock, then place the metal building on top of those to get more height in the walls... has anyone done this?Any thoughts on how high the sidewall should be? I was thinking that a two foot wall along each side would be plenty of height (14 feet tapering up to 18?). Thanks in advance!

How wide is the door? My door is about 14' and once the back of the 5 wheel gets inside it is hard to see to the back.....

My MH garage is 25' X 50' with a 14' X 14' door. I can keep my slides open inside. The only problem inside is lack of light working under the MH. My garage is heated to 55 degrees and I have 50 amp service so I can leave MH plugged in. The concrete floor is 6" thick.

Ask the manufacturer what height door they can put into the position you desire. If it's less than your desired height, then add the appropriate sidewall to get it there. Most highway bridges used to be set for a minimum of 13'-6" clearance. I wouldn't set the door opening higher than that.

DougE wrote:Ask the manufacturer what height door they can put into the position you desire. If it's less than your desired height, then add the appropriate sidewall to get it there. Most highway bridges used to be set for a minimum of 13'-6" clearance. I wouldn't set the door opening higher than that.Do you mean any lower than 13'6"?

You can raise the side walls up as high as you want, which would include structural engineering of the footings and wall connections. You would want to increase the height of the roll up door commensurate with the side wall height increases.

Garage Advice | Good Sam Community

Terryallan
Explorer II
Oct 01, 2015
cardtarget wrote:
Hi all, I have a 30x34 concrete pad where I plan on putting a large garage that will double as RV storage. I've done a lot of research and I'm leaning toward a "P-Model" metal building for both price and longevity.

Something like this:

The sidewalls of this unit are only 12 feet. The roof peak is 16 feet. My RV door will be on the side of the garage. I'm sure this will be enough space to store the RV, but I don't know if it's enough to be able to work on it. Current RV has a clearance of about 10'8", but I know I should plan for the future as well.

Any thoughts on how high the sidewall should be? I was thinking that a two foot wall along each side would be plenty of height (14 feet tapering up to 18?).

Thanks in advance!

Something to remember. The walls will be 12 feet BEFORE they start to turn toward the peak. Meaning at the top of the turn in your case, it will be at least 14' high. So Even if later you manage to get a 13' high trailer, You will still have room to crawl around on top. At this time you will have almost 6 feet to walk around on the TT roof. IMOP. You have plenty of height inside the building
Bionic_Man
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
If you are trying to get a short door opening, you need to make sure your driveway is flat for the entire length of RV and tow vehicle going in.

I agree on the minimum length of 40', but whatever you build, you will wish you went bigger.

My garage is 24' X 52' with 16' sidewalls and a 14' X 20' door. I can just barely leave my truck hooked up to my 5er and close the door. I really wish I would have gone wider. Even 4' wiser would have made a huge difference.
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
korbe wrote:
Bob Vaughn wrote:
Roads keep getting repaved and the bridge height signs do not get replaced with the correct height...plus clearance height apps do not get updated....

In our part of the country, normally prior an overlay under some sort of overpass with restricted height, the AC would be ground down and replaced without lessening the clearance. I would guess the liability of not maintaining accurate clearance heights (and signage) would be enormous.

yep, that has been the case that I have seen. always grind it down first.
bumpy
korbe
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Bob Vaughn wrote:
Roads keep getting repaved and the bridge height signs do not get replaced with the correct height...plus clearance height apps do not get updated....

In our part of the country, normally prior an overlay under some sort of overpass with restricted height, the AC would be ground down and replaced without lessening the clearance. I would guess the liability of not maintaining accurate clearance heights (and signage) would be enormous.
Bob_Vaughn
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Roads keep getting repaved and the bridge height signs do not get replaced with the correct height...plus clearance height apps do not get updated....
DougE
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Nope. My intent was not to make the opening excessively high if you could get away with something less. In retrospect, however, the 5th wheel manufacturers are pushing the limits to the extent that RVers will soon be needing to use trucker maps to avoid the older roads that only have 13'-6" clearances!
guidry
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Think about height if you may have to work on your RV roof.
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
gbopp wrote:
Bob Vaughn wrote:
DougE wrote:
Ask the manufacturer what height door they can put into the position you desire. If it's less than your desired height, then add the appropriate sidewall to get it there. Most highway bridges used to be set for a minimum of 13'-6" clearance. I wouldn't set the door opening higher than that.

Do you mean any lower than 13'6"?

X2. That's what I was thinking. I think Doug made a mistake.

perhaps he meant that anything over 13-6 was a waste? assuming that is still standard highway bridge minimum clearance height. i.e. no reason to put in a 20 ft high door.
bumpy
gbopp
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Bob Vaughn wrote:
DougE wrote:
Ask the manufacturer what height door they can put into the position you desire. If it's less than your desired height, then add the appropriate sidewall to get it there. Most highway bridges used to be set for a minimum of 13'-6" clearance. I wouldn't set the door opening higher than that.

Do you mean any lower than 13'6"?

X2. That's what I was thinking. I think Doug made a mistake.
Ductape
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
I built one with 3' of concrete sidewall to raise it up. Poured solid not block.

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