gas line interferes with drain plug

[Dick_B]

I have a new Dometic Water heater model G6A-8E-SP,gas only with spark ignition. The gas line into the Heater is much inline with the socket needed to install/remove the drain plug. I can still do it with a channel locks but it is more difficult and will eventually round off the hex head.
Anyone had this problem and solved it?
I don't know how to add a photo.

I found something, not previously mentioned, that worked for me yesterday. It is CTA Tools, 2573, Low Profile 24 mm socket that was originally designed to remove oil filters, I think, but worked for me tightening up the drain plug once started by hand. It uses a 3/8 inch drive.

[Old-Biscuit]

philh wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....

Pretty sure a brass cockvalve is going to be safe when compared to a plastic plug.

Convenience of the cockvalve trumps the plastic plug for part timers.

Drain plug is NOT plastic
It is NYLON and rated for 300*F PLUS/180 psi

[philh]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....

Pretty sure a brass cockvalve is going to be safe when compared to a plastic plug.

Convenience of the cockvalve trumps the plastic plug for part timers.

[Old-Biscuit]

fyrflie wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

fyrflie wrote:
I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.

Hope that hose is temp/pressure rated for above 210*F/150 psi

Temp/press that COULD be reached/exceeded should t-stats fail to shut down heating source

Drain hole is small to begin with (1/2")
Valve cuts that size down even more so effective draining of crud is hampered.

A little bit of overthinking here.

Why would a drain hose that’s about 12” long need to be temp/ pressure rated.
Or are you thinking of the Temp. Relief Valve.

I don’t full time in my RV so the “crud” buildup would be minimal to non existent and I drain my tank after every trip.

It’s a modification that I wanted to do to my RV. If you don’t agree with it, then fine, move on to the next post but quit trying to impress everyone with what you think you might know.

Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....

[fyrflie]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

fyrflie wrote:
I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.

Hope that hose is temp/pressure rated for above 210*F/150 psi

Temp/press that COULD be reached/exceeded should t-stats fail to shut down heating source

Drain hole is small to begin with (1/2")
Valve cuts that size down even more so effective draining of crud is hampered.

A little bit of overthinking here.

Why would a drain hose that’s about 12” long need to be temp/ pressure rated.
Or are you thinking of the Temp. Relief Valve.

I don’t full time in my RV so the “crud” buildup would be minimal to non existent and I drain my tank after every trip.

It’s a modification that I wanted to do to my RV. If you don’t agree with it, then fine, move on to the next post but quit trying to impress everyone with what you think you might know.

[Ava]

My gas line has only a couple small screws to remove and the gas line is out of the way of the plug.

[Bobbo]

I got one of these. It is a tilt-head ratcheting wrench. The head tilts to fit the angle of the plug, then ratchets so I don't have to remove it while using. Works like a champ. Be sure you buy the size that fits your plug. They do vary.

Tilt Head Ratcheting Wrench

[Old-Biscuit]

fyrflie wrote:
I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.

Hope that hose is temp/pressure rated for above 210*F/150 psi

Temp/press that COULD be reached/exceeded should t-stats fail to shut down heating source

Drain hole is small to begin with (1/2")
Valve cuts that size down even more so effective draining of crud is hampered.

[Dave_H_M]

Maybe a crow's foot ?

[Iraqvet05]

I use a standard socket and a wobble extension to get past the gas line.

[Dick_B]

All good responses and so quick.
Another example of the engineers not thinking past their nose...Kinda like the new automobile that costs $600 to remove the bumper to replace a headlight!

[IAMICHABOD]

I just picked up one of These Wrenches comes with 2 replacement plugs,what a deal and works great.

[fyrflie]

I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.

[Old-Biscuit]

Yes the drain plug is right behind the gas line/gas valve
A socket can not be used unless you remove gas valve

Use a combination open/box end wrench over the top of gas valve

7/8" or 15/16" depending on plug vendor

Loosen with wrench then remove with fingers
Install finger tight then snug up with wrench