RambleOnNW
Jul 24, 2019Explorer II
Had to replace Automatic Transfer Switch
Our 30 amp transfer switch failed while we were dry camping recently so were unable to get power from our Onan generator. Used the chassis engine as a backup source, not a problem.
When we got back I popped the lid on the switch, an Iota ITS-30RL, and probed it with my DMM. The generator voltage was present on the input but not the output. The control board LED was off indicating the control board had failed.
Neither the switch nor the control board is available any longer so a different brand was in order.
I decided to go with the Progressive Dynamics PD5110010Q. This switch has the hot and neutral connections encapsulated within flip connectors. I had some difficulty jamming the stranded wires of the AC line in the connector. I taped all the connectors with electrical tape to insure that the flip levers don’t flop around.
I like that the connections are fully encapsulated (grounds still connect to a bus bar). I also like that the connections are not rigid like on a bus bar and are free to flex.
All comments IMO.
When we got back I popped the lid on the switch, an Iota ITS-30RL, and probed it with my DMM. The generator voltage was present on the input but not the output. The control board LED was off indicating the control board had failed.
Neither the switch nor the control board is available any longer so a different brand was in order.
I decided to go with the Progressive Dynamics PD5110010Q. This switch has the hot and neutral connections encapsulated within flip connectors. I had some difficulty jamming the stranded wires of the AC line in the connector. I taped all the connectors with electrical tape to insure that the flip levers don’t flop around.
I like that the connections are fully encapsulated (grounds still connect to a bus bar). I also like that the connections are not rigid like on a bus bar and are free to flex.
All comments IMO.