is an 8" adjustable shank enough?

Thanks everybody, I'm learning a lot from you all! I'll be looking for a scale to weigh my truck (and trailer once I receive it.) I'll be studying WD hitches more also, as I've heard other places as well that the Andersen may not be best when a lot of distribution is needed. If I can stay under the Combined Weight Rating, but my TV's rear is sitting too low, are helper springs a good option? I'm thinking that the rear axle rating would become the limiting factor in that case. Thanks!

Guess a bit more details on how it's figured...

Used the MTWR, as the OP referenced it and usually folks think in absolute terms

Meaning that if the MTWR says 9,600 lbs...then that TV is rated to tow 9,600 lbs
no matter what else

15,000 GCWR - 9,600 MTWR - 50 hitch = 5,350 lbs your TV can weigh. Why need to
know your TV's actual. Betcha it weighs more, as that 5,350 is the 'curb' weight

Now if the actual weight of the OPs trailer is 6,000 lbs...then the above formula
would look like this:

15,000 GCWR - 6,000 - 50 =8,950 that the TV weigh, but it's GVWR is 6,800...so
that GVWR will be the limiting factor for the OPs setup

You may want to look at a different hitch.

The Andersen hitch is reputed to not work very well with heavier trailers. A Jayco 26BHS trailer could have a loaded tongue weight approaching 1000lbs, and you're going to need all the help you can get from your hitch.

BenK is spouting off numbers as if you will be towing a 9600lb trailer. A Jayco 26BHS with options and loaded to camp will be closer to 7000lbs.

Be aware that even at 7000lbs, this will be pushing your truck to near its maximum capacity. Yes, the ADVERTISING says you can tow 9600lbs, but read the fine print: "When properly equipped." Your truck is *NOT* properly equipped. It's the fancy-schmancy loaded crew cab model. It also doesn't take into account anything or anyone in the truck with you.

Like BenK says, though, you are putting the cart WAY before the horse.

You still need actual weights for the TV, trailer and the tongue

Here are the basics without the actuals:

15,000 GCWR - 9,600 MTWR - 50 hitch = 5,350 lbs your TV can weigh. Why need to
know your TV's actual. Betcha it weighs more, as that 5,350 is the 'curb' weight

5,350 will have additional weight with: the optional stuff, the other seat belts
filled, toolbox, ice chest, pets, etc in the TV. More if you have power
windows, power seats, power locks, upgraded interior, etc, etc

Since a Crew, it already weighs more than a regular pickup (added sheetmetal,
glass, doors, seats, etc)

The OPs is the lowest sub-class of the half ton classes. Normally they will
get into RGAWR trouble first. Mainly because of the low 3,950 RGAWR (the fake
half ton normally has a +6K RGAWR)

With a RGAWR of 3,950...the tongue weight might be too much. Especially if the
Crew Cab is filled with people (few adults weigh in at the 150lb person the OEMs
use to derive ratings).

The main confusion comes from the fact that most pickup cabs and beds
are the SAME between them...but...the main difference is beneath and
in that the frames are bigger, drive train are bigger, suspension is
bigger, etc, etc

So discussing the shank's drop is putting the cart before the horse...

Thanks for the responses. My Sierra has a single rear axle, crew cab extra short bed, GVWR is 6,800 lbs, rear GAWR is 3,950 lbs, front GAWR is 3,650 lbs, max CGWR is 15,000 lbs, tow limit is 9,600 lbs. The trailer's GVWR is 7,750 (though I hope not to reach that weight until I've collected junk for many years!) The hitch I'm hoping to use is the Andersen weight distribution hitch. Thanks again!

An 8 inche shank may work with the heavier BHS but I think your TV will settle a little more than 2". I had a 1500 2WD Silverado (18" wheels) and the dealer set up my BH with a 10" drop shank and a 2" riser ball. They had the hitch at second to the lowest setting and it was spot on.

SailAndPaddle wrote:
The top of my TV's receiver is 17 3/4 inches above the ground. I'm buying a Jayco 26BHS which I'm told has a coupler height of 24". This is a 6 1/4" difference. I've read that the truck may settle up to 2" once the tongue weight is applied. If so, I'd need a hitch with a shank that will adjust 8 1/4 inches. I'm considering an Andersen hitch with a shank that only adjusts 8". Do you think I'll be close enough? My TV is a 2013, 2 wheel drive Sierra with 20" wheels. Thanks!

Welcome to the portal !

Do some home work before going much farther and note that the advice
here is free and advisers have no liability to you

Meaning there are dials/knobs/etc adjustments and that not knowing the
goal can cost you down the learning curve. Both in $$$ for parts to
even changing TV or TT to accomodate

Your " My TV is a 2013, 2 wheel drive Sierra with 20" wheels " has no
specifications.

Sierra's come in +6K GVWR, +7K GVWR, +8K GVWR, +9K GVWR and even
higher. They *ALL* come in 2 wheel drive. They *ALL* come with 20"
wheels, both standard for whatever package or optional.

A 1,000 lb trailer tongue might have the +6K GVWR Sierra squat so
much to have the front tires lift off the pavement...while the same
1,000 lb tongue on the 1 ton Dually not squat more than an inch...

Provide more specifics and not the 'dry' trailer weight, the 'dry'
tongue weight and the GVWR/RGAWR/FGAWR/GCWR of your Sierra.