Just got my first TT home. Beginner questions.

Just measured my truck's tools against the trailer and they don't fit. Socket wall is too thick and hits the wheel hubcab.
I have a 3/4 torque wrench and the 21mm socket fits but is not long enough; the handle binds against the tire. I guess I'll have to find some other tool or a 3/4 extension.
I imagine a lot of people realize this the first time they have a flat or blowout. Not a good day on the road.

1- Should it come equipped with the tool to turn the scissor levelling jacks? I used my drill and sockets/ratchet. Could not find any tool for jacks or to change wheels. Brand new TT.

The drill for the jacks is better than anything the dealer will give you

2- Is it normal that my F250 back(corner lights) comes in contact with the trailer when at a very sharp angle backing up?

I can hit mine too if I turn too sharp.

3- Any trick to getting the hitch to let the ball go? I had to turn it up and down a few time, jiggle it, jump on the bumper a few times before I could unclamp it.

Back or pull the truck up a hair and it will release.

4- Where do you take your level? I used a large level so could not fit it with the refrigerator. I used the kitchen counter to level it.

I used a level under a large window sill on the exterior. Now I level it with my i-phone.

All the other responders have covered you quite nicely. The one issue I will address is releasing the ball.
Chances are that if you just towed home from the dealer, you had a dry ball. Put a tiny bit of grease on the ball, does not take much.
You also need to park as level and straight as possible. There have been a couple of times that I had to pull the hitch pin and let the whole head assembly pull out,but that only happens in less than ideal situations.

Thanks all.

I will call the dealer to get the tool but my plan is to travel with my cordless drill and socket. Also maybe will bring the big 3/4 torque wrench; I never use it at home anyway.

I was lucky backing up very slowly and noticing the contact with the corner light. No damage at all. I have to practice backing up; preferable somewhere else than my tiny street and driveway first.

The trailer is 24' 3600lbs dry dual axle. I'm on the overkill side with F250 and equalizer hitch. I have to keep the bars on because they need me to use the front lift to allow the bars to be removed; too much pressure otherwise.

I will be getting stick on bubble levels eventually. This was just for the first trip home so I could test all systems that require leveling(fridge, slide).

#4 the counter is fine.

#3. After removing the bars use the jack to jack up the trailer a bit. Go into the truck and put it in reverse,Idle back, sometimes a light touch of gas is needed. You will hear a clunk and you will be released.

Also don't back up your trailer with the sway bar attached, if your hitch is equiped with one.

This does not apply if you have a (brand-name) Equal-I-zer hitch.

1. Should be provided but I use a battery operated drill, much easier on my arms ;) for a old guzzer like me...

2. If your trailer is touching your truck tail lights when you are
backing up you are turning to sharp. When backing pull past the spot
till your trailer bumper just passes the point where you are going to
back pulling out so you trailer is on a 20 or 30 degree to where you
are going to back in. Try not to ever make 45 degree angle to your
trailer while backing up only maybe a 30 to 35 degree. Once you get
started you can always pull forward somewhat to get a shorter angle
each time you pull up till you can back straight in the rest of the
way. Take your time, believe it or not the shorter the trailer the
harder it is to back. The reason is the short trailer turn very qwick
the long they are the easier they are. The same with axles, one axle
turn faster that 3 axles......

Try to always have a ground guide while backing so you do not hit
anything while backing as well, roll down the window so you can hear
the DW if she yells stop.... :D

I'm sure you either know or have read a number of comments regarding
most all of this. One finial thing is someone tells you to hurry up
and get backed in tell them to buy your rig and then they can back it
in faster.

There is always friending people in camp grounds to help do not be
shy ask some to help if the DW is not sure...

Have fun, good campping to you and your family

Here's a simple way to find front to back level' simply put a carpenters level on the vertical position of your door. When the bubble is in the middle it's level front to back.

To level side to side, simply lay the same level upright along the inside wall of your camper. You can do thar right at the door too. I use the door frame (vertical) for both directions. Floors, counter tops, stove tops are very seldom really square to the overall structure of the camper. But the door frame is always the level point, as are the walls.

Fastfwd75 wrote:
1- Should it come equipped with the tool to turn the scissor levelling jacks? I used my drill and sockets/ratchet. Could not find any tool for jacks or to change wheels. Brand new TT.

2- Is it normal that my F250 back(corner lights) comes in contact with the trailer when at a very sharp angle backing up?

3- Any trick to getting the hitch to let the ball go? I had to turn it up and down a few time, jiggle it, jump on the bumper a few times before I could unclamp it.

4- Where do you take your level? I used a large level so could not fit it with the refrigerator. I used the kitchen counter to level it.

1. A tool should have been included for the jacks but tire lug wrenches are usually not

2. No, you need to correct this ASAP and not turn so sharply also.

3. You have to relieve the pressure from the coupler

4. Take your pick, very little is actually level on an RV anyway.