New WD Hitch Needed- Reese DC or SC?

Picked the trailer up Thu evening. So far so good with the DC, though now that we are loaded I need to tweak the bar adjustment some. I tried yesterday afternoon, but between getting tired, and wanting to get on the road to the cg I went the wrong way when I wanted to add a little more tension!!! So will adjust the head angle back the other way 2 teeth here at the campground.

I did find I need to go buy a 1.5" open wrench for when I may need to tweak the cam arms. Or a larger crescent wrench. Oh well better to have and not need, right!!!???

Only issue is the dealer didn't get the Titan 2.5" shank order correct! So still needing that to be all set up 100%!!! Currently have a solid Husky shank (gasp!!!) connected to my Reese DC!!!!

TY again to all!!!

I have the dual cam and it tows great. Getting everything tweaked just right took a little trial and error, but I have it dialed in now. Mine is tongue heavy too.

I love how my DC performs, but I've had issues with mounting on both trailers I've had it on. My first trailer was 26', 2x4 thin wall tube A-frame and 5600 lbs with 850 lbs of tongue weight. Bolts on one side stripped trying to get to 50 ft-lbs, I never tightened up the other side as much and it was always fine. The other side I fished self locking nuts inside the frame and it was fine as well.

2nd trailer, 29' long, 7500lbs (guess), and 1300lbs tongue weight (sherline scale). I upgraded to 1200 lb bars and had all sorts of issues last year on a trip. By day 2 bolts were pulling out and I could see the bars really rubbing and catching on the cams and cam chain link. By the time I was 1+ week into the trip near Boston I just took one of the cams off the trailer and connected the chain directly to the w/d bar. End of summer I bought a new w/d head from Reese with the raised ball mount, made 2x2 angle iron brackets for the inside and outside of the frame and bolted thru. The angle iron brackets are 3 times longer than the Reese bracket. I also started putting vasaline on the cams and ground the edges of my 1200 lb bars down near the cam as they are fat in places. I see one cam bracket still wiggles just a little vertically and am thinking of bolting it up from the bottom to prevent it from moving vertically at all. Anyone try that? At least it isn't twisting, pulling bolts and bending up my A-frame anymore.

The Reese DC is an excellent WDH when installed right and dialed in. If cam lobes aren't centered right on the bar ends, the handling/sway is awful. When right, it's amazing. I towed one whole season last year with our DC WDH, but without the cam arms mounted. Struggled a lot. Then installed them at the beginning of this season - such a night and day difference.

A few weeks ago, I tried towing a friend's truck and TT combo (similar wt. length TT to ours) which has one friction bar. The Reese DC was the clear winner. The DC is nice because it has a self-centering action, unlike friction bars, Equal-iz-er, etc.

mrekim wrote:
These tube frames are 11 Gauge. That is .12 inches thick. A 1/2 X 13 bolt has .077 threads per inch. That means that the 1/2" self tapping screw will cut 1.5 threads into the frame.

I'm amazed that people even manage to get the bolt torqued to the 50 ft lbs specified in the in the instructions without stripping the threads out of the frame.

There's a good chance that those 1.5 threads will not resist a force that attempts to pull the screws out. A turn at an intersection that places the trailer "above" the tow vehicle (driving down hill) could be enough to do it.

If Reese wasn't having lots of problems from tube frame installs they wouldn't even offer the rivet nuts.

The shoulder on the rivet nut is thin and not much larger than the hole. If you want the DC to sit flat to the frame then you can recess the inside of the DC mount with a drill bit.

I would be more concerned about everything staying together with only 1.5 threads than I would with the shoulder of the rivet nut.

Agree 100% with this. Expecting the screws to hold with only 1.5 threads engaged is silly. You'd think Reese could come up with something a little better...

I had the Reese forming screws (correctly torqued) back out on our DC with around 950 lbs TW which damaged the screws and threads in frame. I decided to prevent this from ever happening again so I mounted the brackets as in the photos. Installed a plate inside the A-frame tubing with flange head nuts welded on. Pushed it into position and plug-welded it in place through two 1/4" holes in the A-frame. Ground the welds down and painted. Made up a spacer plate to go between the A-frame and bracket as the radii are different. I used new longer flange head bolts with same thread pitch. Also, the torque can be increased from Reese's standard 50 ft-lbs to 75 with my install.

CampingN.C. wrote:
I bought our current truck, drove it home, hooked up and left for a trip three hours from home.
I had an awesome poker face at the dealer, they never knew how bad I needed the truck!

Nice! Lol

I bought our current truck, drove it home, hooked up and left for a trip three hours from home.
I had an awesome poker face at the dealer, they never knew how bad I needed the truck!

Kevin,

Not sure what Ford suggests for wd hitch adjustment. I do know the newer (yours may fall in that) trucks it is suggested to return the front end back to 50% of the lost faw. I did recently read the Reese instructions again while trying to decide which hitch system, and Reese still states equal drop, or to follow manufactures recommendation if different.

And as for being in a hurry due to a trip, I understand! Our trailer we just sold, picked it up on a Mon, and by Wed night we were at the campground. My wife was out of town when I picked it up, and didn't get home Wed afternoon until her flight was delayed, and then she flew into a different airport which is an hour away (without traffic which is bad during rush hr) instead of 10-15 min away! This time we get to p/u our new Jayco Thu evening, then we head out Fri for a w/e trip! Maybe the next rig we buy we will have learned by then! Lol

Need-A-Vacation wrote:
Well.... The DC system is on order w/ a 2.5" shank! TY for all the feedback!!!

Mrekim,

Not sure what Kevin's tv is, but with the newer trucks that is my understanding as well. Return the front height back to the unloaded height. I have read some members here still will adjust the hitch so the front drops a little past unloaded height.

My truck is an 07 F150 supercab. I followed the installation instructions that reese gave with the hitch and this is where I ended up. Once again I was In a hurry when I did it, as we were leaving on a long trip. I am just getting those numbers from memory, so it may have been different.

Considering it is a rather wimpy tow vehicle, even by today's half ton standards, I a, more then Impressed with how stable this hitch setup made it pull. On that note, I am having a hard time waiting for the date when I can buy a new truck, but that isn't until fall of 2016. I promised myself I would keep this one ten years when I bought it. Next truck will be a SRW crew one ton of an undetermined brand.

Well.... The DC system is on order w/ a 2.5" shank! TY for all the feedback!!!

Mrekim,

Not sure what Kevin's tv is, but with the newer trucks that is my understanding as well. Return the front height back to the unloaded height. I have read some members here still will adjust the hitch so the front drops a little past unloaded height.

Kevinwa wrote:

I set the hitch as per the instructions. Without it the back of the truck drops down and the front fenders lift 1". With the WD hitch on the truck sags 1/2" at all four corners.

My understanding is that the typical case is to bring the front to zero or slightly raised from the no bars height.

If I'm correct then fixing this **might** also address the issue with the snap up pipe too. If the tongue is raised a couple of inches from ride height you should be able to at least start the snap-up by hand so that the ground is not interfering with the pipe.