I bought an Oxygenics shower head thinking I could just attach it to my existing fixture. But it turns out my 30-year-old Allegro has kind of a unique set up. Is there some sort of adapter I can get or do I need to replace the fixture?
The fixture has a long, steel tube that goes up to the shower head. The Oxygenics fixture doesn't attach to the fixture or where the shower head is (threads are too small). There is an access panel in the bedroom where I could get to the shower fixture but it would require quite a bit of effort.
Here's what I have:
The fixture has a long, steel tube that goes up to the shower head. The Oxygenics fixture doesn't attach to the fixture or where the shower head is (threads are too small). There is an access panel in the bedroom where I could get to the shower fixture but it would require quite a bit of effort.
Here's what I have:
Okay - I can stick a fork in this one. It's all buttoned up and working great. It's AMAZING the difference that shower head makes with regard to the longevity of the 6-gallons of hot water. It should slow the filling of my gray water tank, too.
It's nice when you walk into Home Depot and the guy in the plumbing department looks at what you've got for 10 seconds and produces EXACTLY what you need. I'd have hunted for hours in the plumbing section otherwise.
Yeah, my screwdriver/drill thing dug a couple of divots into the wall in that back corner. I had to remove some bed framing to get at the access hole. It's covered by the bed anyway.
It's nice when you walk into Home Depot and the guy in the plumbing department looks at what you've got for 10 seconds and produces EXACTLY what you need. I'd have hunted for hours in the plumbing section otherwise.
Yeah, my screwdriver/drill thing dug a couple of divots into the wall in that back corner. I had to remove some bed framing to get at the access hole. It's covered by the bed anyway.
Thanks! The bonus was that I was able to re-use the screw hole that held the old shower pipe for the Oxygenics mount. I can't wait to try it out in the real world. I've only ever showered once in the thing and the old shower head emptied the HW tank in less than 2 minutes.
So the new set up will work nicely once I get the correct adapters on the back side. There's not a lot of room to work with in the wall.
That hose on the Oxygenics head is stupid stiff. I have a stainless telephone-cord style from my house that I can use. I dropped one of the mounting nuts down into the never-never land between the shower and wall so I had to reuse an old one.
That hose on the Oxygenics head is stupid stiff. I have a stainless telephone-cord style from my house that I can use. I dropped one of the mounting nuts down into the never-never land between the shower and wall so I had to reuse an old one.
I threw in the towel on the original set up. The o-ring on the diverter was shot. Got a new spigot and diverter on the way. Newer 1/2" fittings. The old one was easy to get out after I pried the access panel open.
I noticed through this experience that the "step" in the shower is made for shorter rigs where there is actual interference between the shower and the rear wheel well. I have no such interference. So a logical, really cool mod would be to take out that shower pan and replace it with something a lot more accommodating. Pretty far down on the to-do list but still an exciting possibility.
wa8yxm wrote:
Well.. The vacuum breaker is only needed if you go to a hand held head.. If you stick with a fixed head forget it
What does it do?
If you drop a hand held head in the shower and loose prssure under some conditions dirty wsater from around your feet can be sucked back up in the hose.. The Vacuum braker provents this
With a fixed head.. You can not drop it into the dirty water. so you need not the backflow preventing vacuum breaker.
Thanks!
The oxy hose is too stiff. I'll see what I can get at Lowe's.
Lowe's sold me a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer bushing, but it leaks. I'll dry to seal it up with some more teflon tape. The real problem is that the low-volume shower head now creates more pressure than the original design had intended. The diverter valve and the seal on the pipe at the valve both leak. I may have to replace the whole fixture.
But - the shower head is impressive. Somehow it creates more pressure with my water pump than with my city hook up.
Also, because the wheel well interferes with the shower so there's a "step" at the back of the shower, but the shower head is on the side opposite the step. This puts the shower head pretty much directly in your face. I can now mount the shower head on the other side due to the length of the hose, and the "step" gives you some distance from it. It's much better this way.
Lowe's sold me a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer bushing, but it leaks. I'll dry to seal it up with some more teflon tape. The real problem is that the low-volume shower head now creates more pressure than the original design had intended. The diverter valve and the seal on the pipe at the valve both leak. I may have to replace the whole fixture.
But - the shower head is impressive. Somehow it creates more pressure with my water pump than with my city hook up.
Also, because the wheel well interferes with the shower so there's a "step" at the back of the shower, but the shower head is on the side opposite the step. This puts the shower head pretty much directly in your face. I can now mount the shower head on the other side due to the length of the hose, and the "step" gives you some distance from it. It's much better this way.
wa8yxm wrote:
I would keep the pipe and put a Vacuum breaker at the end.
Take the "old" head to Lowes or Home Depot plumbing dept and ask them to find an adapter that will make it into 1/2 IPT.
Okay - help me with this vacuum breaker. What does it do? I've been considering an expansion tank to eliminate the CLUNK every time someone uses the toilet in the middle of the night. Is it the same kind of thing?
