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question on cable pull tank valve drains

riven1950
Explorer
Explorer
We are getting ready to go pick up our new GD Imagine TT next week.

Our current and previous TT's had / have exposed valves where you just pull a handle, pretty simple.

This new TT has the valves in the belly, supposed to keep them from freezing I was told.

I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.

Is there a way to test during the walk thru?

Yes, we plan on a detailed walk through.

By the way if you know of a good walk through checklist and could direct me to it that would be appreciated.

Thanks
20 REPLIES 20

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
If they were straight I am sure they would work well for a long time but they are most always put in a big circle.

I finally had enough and placed my valves under the RV in an easy place to reach.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

wilber1
Explorer
Explorer
I find cable pulls will often close better if you keep pushing on the handle for five or ten seconds after it is all the way in.
"Never trust a man who has not a single redeeming vice" WSC

2011 RAM 3500 SRW
2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

bfast54
Explorer
Explorer
I used "bicycle" cable lube, it creeps into the cable..Keeps it loose.;)
2000 Ford SuperDuty F-350 Powerstroke,Dually.C.C.,.The Tow Monster
2005 Open Road 357RLDS
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Honda EU3000is Generator
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Doran Mfg-RV360-TPMS
B&W/Companion

Rally's attended so far-21


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Papa_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Since I needed a new 'Y' connector on my (after my electric valve replacement), I bought the Valterra Y with manual valves already bolted together as 1 piece.
Best of both worlds... electric valves way up underneath, and manual valves right at the hose connector.
Steve

2016 GMC 2500HD duramax 4x4
2018 Cougar 311RES

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks for that.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

shum02
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
shum02 wrote:
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
I have the same issue, but mine don't leak yet. Do you have a pics of your installation? TIA.


Sorry don't have any except maybe the final product.

Probably one of the easiest mods to do. Simply cut off the section of pipe that contains the pipe cap and collar with a hack saw and then prepare the 3" pipe to receive the new dump valve. You have to have at least around 3" of pipe to mount the new valve on. Prepare the area by cleaning it with in my case a couple quick shots of brake cleaner then a wipe off with a wet cloth. Use the appropriate ABS solvent/glue for black pipe, coat both pieces according to the instruction, mate the two pieces making sure you have it orientated the way you want and then let cure. Done.

Valtera also makes one that just mounts up to the cap collar if you do not want something permanent but I think permanent is the WAY to go.
2006 F350 Lariat FX4 CC 4x4 PSD
2007 KZ2505QSS-F Outdoorsman

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
shum02 wrote:
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
I have the same issue, but mine don't leak yet. Do you have a pics of your installation? TIA.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

shum02
Explorer
Explorer
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
2006 F350 Lariat FX4 CC 4x4 PSD
2007 KZ2505QSS-F Outdoorsman

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just curious, are there any advantages to the electric valves? Other than pushing a button rather than pulling/pushing a lever? Different type of sealing surface? Or something other than a blade-type valve?
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Papa_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
My new trailer had cable pulls, which I did not like due to not quite closing all the way, so....
I just got done replacing them all with the electric valves from Valterra. Also had to upgrade the 1.5" galley drain pipe to 3" as there aren't any 1.5 electric valves.
Terrible job, but done now.
Steve

2016 GMC 2500HD duramax 4x4
2018 Cougar 311RES

camperforlife
Explorer
Explorer
I've had issues with the cable systems and I've had issues with a straight rod pull. Both were a PITA at the time because they both broke with a full tank. Use either enough and they will break. I wouldn't let a cable stop me from buying a trailer that I really like.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I haven't had any cable problems but the stem got really dry and tight in the bonnet. Some guys put a zerk in that bonnet area for grease. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

riven1950
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the hints and info. Looking forward to the new camper but hate the pdi part. We've come out good with the last 2 tt's at pdi or maybe just lucky. Hope it continues:)

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
We took delivery of our Montana High Country 7 weeks ago (toady). I was very familiar with travel trailers of all sorts and have spent years and years studying trailer designs and tried to keep up on latest technology. I've visited my local dealership's many, many times and done my own window shopping on their lots. In other words, I'm pretty knowledgeable about these new camper and such.

So, looking back 7 weeks ago, what did I absolutely "miss" on my PDI and orientation?

1st.... the leveling system. Although I recorded it, it was too fast and I still messed up when we got home. It took several days, YouTube videos, and reading the manuals to finally figure it out right. Now that I've got the system down, it's a no brainer. Learning was painful. If you've not deal with self-leveling systems before, make sure YOU do it with HIS instruction. Don't just watch ... YOU do it and I think that would have made all the difference in the world for me.

Next, take the time to go through the service manuals and paper work for all the appliances they provide you. It was only after the fact I discovered I had no paper work on the refrigerator. All I have is a name brand and all the tags and labels or somewhere on the back or side where I can't see them. I'm still not sure what cubic feet this thing is.

Mine came with an awning light. I had no clue how to attach it. It took me a couple weeks to finally figure it out, and even longer to figure out what switch actually turned it on. He never say anything about that light or the function of that electric bar on the awning. And by the way, my electric bar is on the arm, NOT the roller. So I had no clue that was even electrical. I did figure it out, it's pretty slick, I like it, but it sure would have been easier to have known how it attached and where the switch was from the get-go.

I regret they did not hook up a water line to the camper. I discovered mine leaks at the connection. I haven't tried a new wash, and the camper goes back for a 3 month inspection in about 5 weeks, and we don't keep water connected except for filling the fresh tank. So, for the moment it's OK. But still, it's something they might have been able to fix right then.

FYI, the black tank flusher connection, and the winter-by-pass connection don't leak. They are fine.

He didn't explain the ice maker in the refrigerator, except he pointed out where the water cut-off valve was located. It would have been nice if he would have explained how to winterize it. When we go back in 5 week, I'll have them explain it then. Meanwhile, it's disconnected until next spring.

He didn't explain the entertainment system at all, how the remote to the televisions work, or how the sound system worked. I've been reading the manuals, and slowly getting it figured out. A simple explanation of how to turn the TV on and OFF and adjust the sound would have been nice!

Our 5er has 2 doors, one on each side of the trailer. The back drivers side door has a light above it. The front passenger side door has a light above it. We could get the front door light to come on, but somehow couldn't figure out the back door. I did ask the guy at PDI how to turn it on, he didn't know, said we'd eventually figure it out... well... he was right. Turns out the same switch that turns on the front door also turns on the back door light. I know, sounds so simple, but it wasn't simple to figure it out.

Everything else he covered pretty good. And my knowledge of a life-time of association with travel trailers was helpful, and of course, years of tips and things folks talked about on these forums made my walk through very easy for him. I guess he figured, I'd figure out everything else... And in time ... I did.

Everything is great now! At least, when it comes to the sound system, I now have a copy of the manual on my laptop computer where I can bring it up and blow the print up and actually READ it!