Reroute Lot Sewer Pipes

[YahkNBahk]

Hi All -

Hope this is the right place to post this. If not, please let me know and I'll move it.
We recently purchased a permanent RV lot (actually a double lot with some friends). The previous owner had his sewer pipe connection for our lot installed in a really goofy place. It sits in the middle of the lot so we need to run our hose across the lot to connect.
I want to reroute it so we can connect on the other side of our trailer and cap the existing connection. I think there is a main line that runs across the front of our property because both our neighbours have their hoses running up to there and I want to tap into that.
We spoke with the resort team about this briefly last fall and they said we can do whatever we want. I have some more questions for them but since this is a seasonal resort and hasnt really opened up yet its hard to get a hold of them and I want to get this done before the season really ramps up.

I would assume the resort would have a layout of the sewer system? Has anyone done this before and any suggestions on how to do it?
Is this something that I could do or would it better to hire a pro? Who would I talk to? There are approved general contractors for the place. Would they be able to do the work?

Thanks!

[YahkNBahk]

JRscooby wrote:

YahkNBahk wrote:

folivier wrote:
Not sure if Canada has this service but here in the states you can call 811 and ask the local utilities to locate their underground lines for you. Then if you hit one it's on them.
Here is Canada: https://call811.com/811-In-Your-State/Canada

Oh far out. This is good to know. Thanks!

In much of this country a professional can be fined for not calling for locating before starting a dig. And on a big deep cut they come out every 2-3 days.
A home-owner not far from me got in trouble when he decided to move mailbox, hit phone line with shovel.

I know you need to call beforehand for residential but never clicked that I would need to for an RV spot.

[YahkNBahk]

Grit dog wrote:
Far out?
Yeah you need to call someone.
Depending on the scenario of which we have no knowledge of location, topography, grade depth, soil type, etc, this may be very simple or very expensive.
But there’s a few rules with gravity sewer that can’t be broken.
1. Sht flows downhill
2. You have a 1% variation in slope from 1% to 2% slope and no bumps or dips or it won’t work.
3. You’ve already gotten some misleading information in this thread (in general, irrespective of your actual conditions) so be careful of internet advice.
4. Unless you can figure out elevation slope and grade, you can’t even plan how or where to run the line or what to tie into.

It’s likely a very simple job that any halfway lucid plumber could/would do. In lieu of a utility contractor. But you need to know #1,2 and 4 to determine the scope of work required.

#1, #2 and number #4 are the reasons why I'm hesitant to do the work myself. I don't think I could get the slope right and then have a real big problem.

[Grit_dog]

Wapiti has a valid point, gleaned from the OPs post(s).
If we were doing a murder mystery game (which many of these threads have elements of, trying to discern or diagnose something in the effort to help someone) he gets a big point for recognizing that.
However by way of the nature of the OPs posts, it doesn’t matter. Without a “plumber buddy” in his back pocket, this isn’t a diy job for him. At least not efficiently or possibly even successfully.

[Thermoguy]

I had some work done on my septic a number of years back. Hired a company and they did it all. It was a few thousand, but something I could not do and had no place doing myself. They took care of all permits, locating, digging, etc. I would recommend hiring a professional.

[wapiticountry]

ssthrd wrote:

wapiticountry wrote:
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

Sounds like a plan......... if that's the scenario. As I said above, hopefully it will be that easy.

Yes--maybe a bit over the top, but without seeing the job, it could be a piece of cake, or a nightmare. Too many variables, and just pointing out a few possibilities since it's obvious that OP has no experience with this kind of thing.

The guy said he currently just has to lay a hose across the yard to the drop. That implies it isn’t up a steep hill or over the side of a cliff. And while it is true excessive slope can cause problems, on such a short run where the line will likely be periodically flushed with larger flows (emptying gray tank after black) a moderately steep slope would still function. Unless the yard is solid rock this is a duo or handyman type of job. No need for engineers, permits, plumbers, excavation contractors etc.

[nickthehunter]

I have been directly (first hand) involved in the design, inspection and construction of a few million feet of sanitary sewers. All of our 6 inch laterals were designed at 1% minimum slope (12 inches per 100 feet)(we don’t use 4 inch laterals but they can have the same slope). Greater slopes up to 1/4+/- inch per foot (2.5 %) are fine. All of our designs are reviewed and approved by state government authorities prior to construction, by law. All designs must comply with “Ten States Standards” and state law. Clicky

[ssthrd]

wapiticountry wrote:
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

Sounds like a plan......... if that's the scenario. As I said above, hopefully it will be that easy.

Yes--maybe a bit over the top, but without seeing the job, it could be a piece of cake, or a nightmare. Too many variables, and just pointing out a few possibilities since it's obvious that OP has no experience with this kind of thing.

[Grit_dog]

^Yup very “basic” for those who know what to do and not horrible for those who are some what handy, mechanically inclined, somewhat informed and wholly motivated.
Totally a diy job for someone who fits the above category.
Not so much if you’re like any of the folks I know who possess zero knowledge skill or desire in any of the things that would lend one the ability to do a diy project like this.

What you said IS easy. IF the right conditions are present. Topography was never mentioned. That is one of the first go/no go considerations.
You, me and many others could walk the OP through a diy of this pretty easy I bet. If he provided any tangible information.

[JRscooby]

wapiticountry wrote:
The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line.

That sounds like a pretty steep drop to me. Inch in 10 feet is what I remember, but it's been a long time sense I put in septic tank.
As to the "runs down hill". In fact, if the grade is not right the water will run off and leave the solids. When putting in sewer lines, you want stuff to flow. If needed to stay below grade use flow, vertical drop, flow, stairstep looking trench.
And the bottom of the trench needs to be stable enough you don't get any settlement that can cause low spots.

[wapiticountry]

I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

[ssthrd]

ssthrd wrote:
BC 1 Call for more info.

If you get a contractor it is one of their responsibilities to do the locates. You also need to make sure that they declare themselves "Prime Contractor" so that they bear the brunt if there is a accident/injury, and WCB gets involved. Otherwise, you as the owner are on the hook. Just saying..........

It looks like a very simple job which a small excavator/backhoe can handle. Probably not a big deal cause it's on private property anyway, and you are not a contractor.

But you should still do the locates --storm, sanitary, water, hydro, tel, cable, gas, street lights, etc.

[ssthrd]

BC 1 Call for more info.

[Grit_dog]

And if you’re out in the toolies, finding that half lucid plumber could be your next challenge after figuring out the feasibility of whatcha want to do! Seriously.

[Grit_dog]

JRscooby wrote:
Note sure why sewer line needs to be below frost line.
If liquid is standing in line long enough to freeze likely to build up to a clog no matter what weather.

Yahk bahk, this is an example of misleading information.
However if NOT building to code and only a seasonal site, freezing concerns are much lower. Possibly not a real world concern at all. Maybe not even a regulatory concern however that is highly doubtful as even places that have virtually no residential building inspections and loose easy to acquire permitting still generally regulate sanitary sewer closely compared to other utilities due to the sensitive nature of installation and effluent.
However no one including the above response knows enough about your situation to surmise that trench depth would not be a concern for regulatory or practical reasons.

Fwiw if you have specific questions and need specific feedback I can try to help. Just pm me.
I’ve installed underground sewer from 3” to 108” diameter. What you’re doing is quite likely something I’d rent a little trencher or mini-exc and do in a weekend during the off season when none of the nosy neighbors are present! Lol.

[JRscooby]

YahkNBahk wrote:

folivier wrote:
Not sure if Canada has this service but here in the states you can call 811 and ask the local utilities to locate their underground lines for you. Then if you hit one it's on them.
Here is Canada: https://call811.com/811-In-Your-State/Canada

Oh far out. This is good to know. Thanks!

In much of this country a professional can be fined for not calling for locating before starting a dig. And on a big deep cut they come out every 2-3 days.
A home-owner not far from me got in trouble when he decided to move mailbox, hit phone line with shovel.