Hello - and thanks up front for the help. I know this is long post with lots of questions. :-)I just weighed TV and TT at CAT scales. I would like to share the numbers, get your take, and I have three questions. Background:- TV is 2003 2500 suburban with 8.1 L, autoride suspension, 3.73 rear end, and LT245/75R16 tires. - TT is 30 foot with 9500 GVWR- WDH is blue ox. I set hitch almost as "strong" meaning there us only 2-3 more links available.- During weighing TT had empty tanks and usual stuff when we camp. TV had 1/2 tank of gas and usual stuff we take camping.Weight measurements - TV onlyFront axle 3640lbsRear axle 3540 lbsTotal 7180TT and TV -Front axle 3440 lbsRear axle 5280 lbsTT axles 7500 lbsTotal 16220 lbsQuestion 1 - internet shows curb weight of TV= 5796 lbs. Is that right? How can I be 1384 lbs over curb weight with 2 ppl and 1/2 a tank of gas?Question 2 - what is the GCWR for my TV? I can't find that anywhere. I know towing capacity of TV is 10,400 lbs.Question 3 - total weight on both TV axles with TT attached is 8720 lbs. GVWR of TV is 8600 lbs. Am I unsafe? My GAWR front is 4180 lbs and 5500 on rear axle. So I am not maxing out axle rating.Question 4 - with TT attached front axle is 200 lbs lighter than without TT. I don't have many more links available on WDH. Do I need a different hitch?Thanks so much and again I am sorry for the long post!!

Actually I think I just answered question #2. I found a "GM Trailering Guide.pdf" that states Gross Combination Weight Rating" for my TV with correct options is 17,000 lbs. So I am 780 lbs under GCWR

For starters your curb weight from the web was likely with a 5.3 engine and 2wd.

I’d say you must have a toyhauler to have that much tongue weight “with” your wdh cranked up. And the only concern I’d have with that setup aside from it generally being quite a load for a basically 20 year old vehicle is the tongue weight if you’re still rocking an OE GMT800 hitch.

1) What is the source for the curb weight? Did it include the exact model with the options you have? 7000lb sounds about right for a 3/4 ton truck. Our F250 weighs in around 7500lb loaded for travel. I realize suburban not pickup but I would be surprised if it was that much lighter. Are you sure you didn't pull the 1/2 ton numbers? What about after market add ons like running boards and luggage racks? Is it a gorped up harley edition (or what ever GM calls it). Those all add weight.3) You are over the GVWR for the truck when hitched. A bit of a gray area. Are you exceeding what the manufacturer recommends...sure thing. Will it immediately explode in a raging ball of fire...no. If you hadn't bought already, I would suggest a bigger truck or a smaller trailer. Since you already have them, see if you can't move some weight around. Back calculating, you are around 17% hitch weight. It could be as simple as move 100lb from the front to the back of the trailer. That should put you somewhere around 13-15% which is still fine but it will move weight from the hitch weight to the trailer axles. As a side effect, this should put some weight back on the front axle to better balance out the load on the truck axles.4) Adjusting your loading may solve the WDH issue but what is the rating on the hitch? They come in different strengths. If you've got a WDH with 1000lb bars, your current 1540lb hitch weight is more than they are designed for. They are still an improvement over nothing but they won't do as good as correctly sized bars.

My comments in red and report back on how it goes. Your model year is one of the last real truck based full sized SUV's and has a much stronger ladder frame than the newer models that has the rear frame section designed with crumple zone duties. Why their receiver is bracketed to the frame & limited hitch weight of 1,000 lbsGator81Burb wrote:Hello - and thanks up front for the help. I know this is long post with lots of questions. :-)I just weighed TV and TT at CAT scales. I would like to share the numbers, get your take, and I have three questions. Background:- TV is 2003 2500 suburban with 8.1 L, autoride suspension, 3.73 rear end, and LT245/75R16 tires. The autoride might interfere with your WD system. Check your manual on HOW2 adjust a WD Hitch system. Have read advice ranging from 'turn it off while adjusting the WD Hitch system' to 'leave it on while'- TT is 30 foot with 9500 GVWR- WDH is blue ox. I set hitch almost as "strong" meaning there us only 2-3 more links available.Which Blue Ox? I like their 'Sway Pro' and there are spring bar ratings. So make sure the correct bar rating for the trailer tongue weight.- During weighing TT had empty tanks and usual stuff when we camp. TV had 1/2 tank of gas and usual stuff we take camping.Weight measurements - TV onlyFront axle 3640lbsRear axle 3540 lbsTotal 7180TT and TV -Front axle 3440 lbsCheck your manual for the proper front axle condition after setting up the WD Hitch system. My Suburban's manual says return to normal height (no trailer tongue on the ball)If yours is 4x4, note that there is now a second set of front axle springs, and they are the bump stops, which rests on the lower arm. But, IMHO, not enough tongue weight has been WD'd to the front axle. You will hear many differing opinions, but we advisors have no skin in 'your' game. Up to you to decideRear axle 5280 lbsTT axles 7500 lbsTotal 16220 lbsQuestion 1 - internet shows curb weight of TV= 5796 lbs. Is that right? How can I be 1384 lbs over curb weight with 2 ppl and 1/2 a tank of gas?Question 2 - what is the GCWR for my TV? I can't find that anywhere. I know towing capacity of TV is 10,400 lbs.Question 3 - total weight on both TV axles with TT attached is 8720 lbs. GVWR of TV is 8600 lbs. Am I unsafe? My GAWR front is 4180 lbs and 5500 on rear axle. So I am not maxing out axle rating.Question 4 - with TT attached front axle is 200 lbs lighter than without TT. I don't have many more links available on WDH. Do I need a different hitch?Thanks so much and again I am sorry for the long post!!

Reviewing results from CAT scale weigh in | Good Sam Community

mkirsch
Nomad II
Jul 14, 2021
BenK wrote:
OP's 8.1L Sub is a GMT800, not the GMT900 with the welded in receiver that also serves crumple zone duties

But...the OP has that, IMHO, dumb receiver design and suggest, if it hasn't been already, replace it with a traditional receiver

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27745475

You are correct. GMT800
BenK
Explorer
Jul 13, 2021
OP's 8.1L Sub is a GMT800, not the GMT900 with the welded in receiver that also serves crumple zone duties

But...the OP has that, IMHO, dumb receiver design and suggest, if it hasn't been already, replace it with a traditional receiver

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27745475
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jul 13, 2021
Gator81Burb wrote:
- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Should be a sticker right on the receiver with the capacities.

The factory receiver on my 2002 3500 DRW had a 750/7500 weight carrying capacity, and a 1250/12500 weight distributing capacity. At BEST that is what yours is rated for, and you are most certainly exceeding the receiver capacity.

Also look into GMT800 (corrected) OEM receiver failures.

BTW, "Class" is meaningless. There is officially only Class I - IV, and it doesn't cover anything over 1000/10000 weight distributing capacity. That "V-5" sticker does NOT mean "Class V." There is no such thing as Class 5 or Class V.
Jarlaxle
Explorer II
Jul 13, 2021
Gator81Burb wrote:
Based on everyone's input I agree I have two concerns:

- Do I need a WDH with higher rating? I would feel safer getting 2000 lb WDH.

- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Thanks again. I promise this will be last question. :-)

The hitch should have the rating on it-and if it's OEM, it might be in the owner's manual.
APT
Explorer
Jul 13, 2021
Curt XD

I'd get that and keep your current WDH.
Gator81Burb
Explorer
Jul 13, 2021
Based on everyone's input I agree I have two concerns:

- Do I need a WDH with higher rating? I would feel safer getting 2000 lb WDH.

- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Thanks again. I promise this will be last question. :-)
JRscooby
Explorer II
Jul 13, 2021
Gator81Burb wrote:

That brings up next good question. How do I calculate tongue weight to make sure I have properly sized hitch?

I have read I take 2 weight readings: weight of truck with no trailer (7180 lbs), weight of truck with WDH disconnected (8890 lbs). So I believe I have 1710 lb tongue weight. Did I calculate that right.

That being said it sounds like it would be a good idea for me to get a beefier hitch. Do they make 2000 lbs hitches? Suggestions??

Also - more numbers for you. I measured front and rear wheel well heights with no trailer and with trailer attached with WDH setup. No trailer has front 36.5 in and rear 38.25. Trailer with WDH has front at 36.5 and rear at 36.5. That good? I think so because I have front within 0.25 inches of unloaded height.

What is important, the weight on a stand under the coupler while the trailer is parked, or the weight on coupler when all hooked up and ready to roll?
Add the weight of steer and drive axles when hooked up, then subtract the GW of trailer. This will give you TW when all hooked up. Subtract the GW of truck alone from GW of combination will give you GW of trailer. Use those numbers to figure the percentages.

By the OP, you are a little over your GVWR. This might shorten the life of some suspension parts. If you where towing this daily you might notice it, but for normal RV use you likely will not notice it. If I had a way to prove it I would bet most RVs are over at least 1 rating. But you are in better shape than most, if only because you know. You can make some adjustments between your ears to reduce the harm.
APT
Explorer
Jul 13, 2021
4WD 8.1L 2000-2006 Suburbans weigh about 6500 pounds with a full tank of fuel. Maybe a 2WD 6.0L LS model could be 5700. The Tire and loading sticker was required on all 2006 models in US, and I remember some being in that 2100 pound range.

GCWR is about 17k for 3.73 axle (10,500 tow rating) and 18.5k for 4.10 axle (12k tow rating).

200 pounds over for that rig is fine. My half ton with the same trailer I still have was 0-500 pounds over GVWR depending on how much we packed per trip.

I'd try one more link hanging (1 fewer under tension) if you can. Check your WDH manual for the minimum @# of links. Also, if your hitch head tilted all the way back?
lbrjet
Explorer
Jul 13, 2021
Exceeding the receiver rating concerns me way more than 200 lbs light on the front axle. You restored 440 out of 640 which is not bad. I think blue ox has 2K bars. Your 1710 TW Calc is correct.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jul 12, 2021
Just like your truck's curb weight, trailer "spec" weights are of the lightest possible configuration under ideal conditions. No water, no propane (or tanks), no batteries, nothing in the cabinets, no optional equipment on the trailer.

When you put all the heavy stuff up front and have nothing but empty space behind the axles the trailer is going to have a high tongue weight.

Anything is possible with moving the tanks. It's just going to cost money, but you don't want to move them behind the axle as that may adversely affect the stability of the trailer.

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