ROOF REPAIR SEALANT WHICH ETERNABOND OR OTHER OPTIONS

As per always, thanks once again for all the feedback, tips and tricks and personal experiences. It goes without saying there's nothing like the knowledge of those that have gone before you so to speak.

Fair comments on the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and not to remove the fixtures up there 'just because" but to seal around and so on.

Once again many thanks to all.

Remove all the skylights, fans etc and clean up the previous caulk, and tape then put the Eternabond around the area the flange will sit on and use #8 x 1 inch new screws and secure and that in and of itself should form an impenatrable to water seal? Does that sound right?

You really don't want to do this on a roof that doesn't leak. If it ain't broke then don't......as the old saying goes. Now if your were doing R & R and actually needed all those roof fixtures removed and repairs made to the decking then proper way to install those fixtures would be to use the OEM grey butyl tape first and then add a self leveling sealant as OEM. And then add the tape id you so desire.

As others say all you need to do is pull any loose sealant free and clean up any dirt grit per instructions of the product your going to apply.

You need to google several you tubes on the subject and see how the pros (dealers/rv roof techs) do it.

Snowman9000 wrote:
I will play devil's advocate. Do you really want to remove, reseal, and replace all of the penetration objects on a 13 year old roof? IMO, vents, antennae, etc. are easily sealed by maintaining the Dicor caulk as needed. There are folks, however, who have undertaken a complete Eternabond job. I would not do that. If/when you need to remove the object for replacement, now you have to fight the EB tape.

However, I HAVE used EB over the front, rear, and sometimes side seams where the roof meets the body work. I have done some of the above on all 3 of my previous RVs, and will do it on my current one. But all the rest of the roof items, no way. Your mileage may vary.

For my purpose, an overlay, I use regular Roof Seal tape.

This was my approach also. My roof had never leaked on my TC. But I went over it with a fine tooth comb so to speak and then used eternabond and dicor to beef up protection. Been in some real torrential rain without a drop.

I will play devil's advocate. Do you really want to remove, reseal, and replace all of the penetration objects on a 13 year old roof? IMO, vents, antennae, etc. are easily sealed by maintaining the Dicor caulk as needed. There are folks, however, who have undertaken a complete Eternabond job. I would not do that. If/when you need to remove the object for replacement, now you have to fight the EB tape.

However, I HAVE used EB over the front, rear, and sometimes side seams where the roof meets the body work. I have done some of the above on all 3 of my previous RVs, and will do it on my current one. But all the rest of the roof items, no way. Your mileage may vary.

For my purpose, an overlay, I use regular Roof Seal tape.

I had a pesky skylight leak that neither Dicor or EB fixed. I finally used Heng's Rubber roof coating applied with a paintbrush.

I cleaned up the old flanges and put eternabond on top of them and out onto the roof surface. I don't know how bad your old flanges are but mine were fine.

Cheers Guys really appreciate the feedback. So I am assuming that we are looking at Eternabond Microseal double sided Putty type tape about 2 inches wide? Remove all the skylights, fans etc and clean up the previous caulk, and tape then put the Eternabond around the area the flange will sit on and use #8 x 1 inch new screws and secure and that in and of itself should form an impenatrable to water seal? Does that sound right? Or do we also need to get the one sided Eternabond tape to also tape around the outer part of the flange to roof as a secondary precaution?

Also with that Eternabond Microseal putty type tape, can we mold that around the circular style furniture on the roof? Hubby was wondering how you'd stop all the "dirt,leaves etc" from sticking to it but I'm assuming that within 'x' amount of time the side exposed to the air will dry out????

Sorry don't mean to sound dumb about this but want to go with the best solution for longer term "set it and almost forget it" protection from water penetration from these add ons on the roof.

Once again as always thanks for your sharing of experience and knowledge. We try to do as much as we can ourselves and buy wherever possible without the "rv or marine" in front of the description as it seems that quadruples the price of everything (LOL).

FTW.

Get a gallon of liquid roof. you will be much happier and its a superior product to anything out there...



liquid-roof

See my results here..

Liquid roof.. The best stuff IMO

I use regular white Eternabond and only use it over straight surfaces (edge of the roof meeting the wall, skylights, etc). Like dave said, the key is prep. I would remove any loose caulking and clean it however Eternabond suggests. I bought a spray can of the Eternabond primer when I did my last camper and just used that.

When installing the Eternabond, don't stretch it. If you stretch it, the bond and watersealing abilities are diminished. Once you have laid the tape, use a roller and roll it down with some good pressure to fully activate the adhesive. Once it is installed correctly, you never have to worry again =)!

For things like your air horns, the round holding tank vent, any ladder attachments etc you should probably stick with Dicor. Eternabond doesn't do that great around tighter curves. Dicor self leveling is the easiest and cheapest way to handle those, but remember that you need to inspect those way more often.

I have used plenty of eternabond. I remove anything that is loose or kinda loose. The rest I leave in place and clean well before application. I think I used mineral spirits or windex. Looks like webseal might be best for the roof all though I used regular. Eternabond is great product just make sure what you apply it to is clean and adhered well to the surface all ready. I also really like dicor lap sealant as well. Same rules apply as far as being clean and good condition before application. Either works great.