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RV Garage Advice

JB77
Explorer
Explorer
I'm looking to build a garage to park my 27' TT and pickup. First question I have for anyone who went through this process is does any one have any ballpark costs for a project like this? I would like to compare the price of siding vs brick also. I will likely be looking at a 14' door and a 8' door. I would like to find ones that match and look more residential. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
23 REPLIES 23

JB77
Explorer
Explorer
1L243 wrote:
I got a estimate for a 2x6 stud, 20x40 with 14x12 foot door, man door and four windows. Stucco exterior, unfinished inside no electrical (I was going to do it myself) for $31,000 including the slab. I did not want to spend that much so I had the slab poured with footings should I ever decide to build a stick and mortar shop on it.

My guess for a shop like your describing around 30x40,x14 with two doors, finished inside and out with electrical would be in the $50,000 to $75,000 range..

You might not be able to go this route, I went with a metal RV port. 20x41 sides are 9' center is 12'. No real snow load here but had to have permit and engineering specs to show wind rating over 110mph which I got from the installer for free.. Total cost including RV Port, installation, slab and some sidewalks was $11,000

You can enclose it, make it taller, shorter, bigger, roll up doors. Just depends on how much you want to spend..




Thanks for all the info everyone. We are still looking for ideas and in the planning stage. We want to do it right the first time. I don't think we will be able to do everything that we want at once, so we are looking at pouring the slab and footings. Then down the road build the garage on it. I would like to make a storage area under the slab with a large door (maybe even a garage door). Does anyone have any experience with doing something like this? I'm wondering what I would expect the cost to be to do a 24' x 40' slab with open storage and a cement floor under the slab.

tdsxt51
Explorer
Explorer
1L243 wrote:
I got a estimate for a 2x6 stud, 20x40 with 14x12 foot door, man door and four windows. Stucco exterior, unfinished inside no electrical (I was going to do it myself) for $31,000 including the slab. I did not want to spend that much so I had the slab poured with footings should I ever decide to build a stick and mortar shop on it.

My guess for a shop like your describing around 30x40,x14 with two doors, finished inside and out with electrical would be in the $50,000 to $75,000 range..

You might not be able to go this route, I went with a metal RV port. 20x41 sides are 9' center is 12'. No real snow load here but had to have permit and engineering specs to show wind rating over 110mph which I got from the installer for free.. Total cost including RV Port, installation, slab and some sidewalks was $11,000

You can enclose it, make it taller, shorter, bigger, roll up doors. Just depends on how much you want to spend..




We're getting one similar to this one. 18' wide by 36' long by 12' tall on the edge and 14' high in the center and one more panel down on each side. It's no garage, but the cost is a little over 3K.
2014 RAM 2500 CTD 6.7 CCLB Auto
2015 Forest River Rockwood Signature Series Ultra Lite 8289WS w/ Diamond Pkg.

nevadanick
Explorer
Explorer
My 40x46 with 4-14ft doors, 2-3-0 man doors, 3 windows and concrete floor was 40k

spoon059
Explorer II
Explorer II
1L243 wrote:
I got a estimate for a 2x6 stud, 20x40 with 14x12 foot door, man door and four windows. Stucco exterior, unfinished inside no electrical (I was going to do it myself) for $31,000 including the slab. I did not want to spend that much so I had the slab poured with footings should I ever decide to build a stick and mortar shop on it.

My guess for a shop like your describing around 30x40,x14 with two doors, finished inside and out with electrical would be in the $50,000 to $75,000 range..

You might not be able to go this route, I went with a metal RV port. 20x41 sides are 9' center is 12'. No real snow load here but had to have permit and engineering specs to show wind rating over 110mph which I got from the installer for free.. Total cost including RV Port, installation, slab and some sidewalks was $11,000

You can enclose it, make it taller, shorter, bigger, roll up doors. Just depends on how much you want to spend..

I really think this is the least expensive way to go and have a quality building. I just had a Carolina Carport installed in my back yard to house my camper. I just got a roof, no sides. The quality is excellent.

I got a 31' long, 18' wide, 10' leg height carport with boxed eaves for a little over $2200. The cost to enclose it is probably another $2000 or so. Now you are at $4200. A gravel floor will cost another couple hundred, cement is probably a couple hundred more than gravel.

Super easy to hang shelves if you want, add electric if you want, install a potbelly woodstove for winter heat if you want. Pretty inexpensive and very well crafted. Mine is rated for 130 mph winds and 35 lbs per square foot of snow load. I would recommend you at least get a quote for a metal building. The prices are reasonable and the quality blew me away.
2015 Ram CTD
2015 Jayco 29QBS

nevadanick
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 40x46 pole barn with 14ft doors so i could drive through. Also roof sheds to sides instead of over doors so snow doesnt slide off in front of doors.

hogcard
Explorer
Explorer
I did a thread on my garage. Click here

about $40,000

OldRadios
Explorer
Explorer


Let floor cure for a month. Finally RV, trailer, and and toads are out of the weather.

And I agree, it's great to be able to work on them in a nice dry place out of the sun.
2006 Fleetwood 26Q
2010 Harley Softail Toad
2015 Ford Focus Toad
Upstate (the other) New York

sunnybrooktoyha
Explorer
Explorer
I built a 30x 44 pole barn. I have a 40 ft 5er. If possible go bigger. Mininum of 48 ft. That way you can put anything in it . I love it being out of the weather and can work on it anytime I want winter or summer. Good luck

OldRadios
Explorer
Explorer
352 wrote:


It is still not to late to keep water on the floor for a slower curing time to prevent cracking. Put a water sprinkler on it.


Been keeping the RV bay and outside apron wet. Probably will for another couple of weeks.
2006 Fleetwood 26Q
2010 Harley Softail Toad
2015 Ford Focus Toad
Upstate (the other) New York

Jim_Shoe
Explorer
Explorer
I lucked into a building that already existed. The township where I live and, at the time, sat on the zoning board, was selling a building where they stored their road equipment. They wanted to unload it because it "rained inside" in the winter. Nobody but me wanted to bid, so I got it cheap. I knew that they heated the building with unvented gas radiant heaters. It wasn't rain. It was condensation. I replaced the radiant heaters with vented gas heaters. No more "rain". 60' x 60' with (3) 12' x 12' doors. The only thing that worried me was the height of my 'C' with an in motion Satellite dish on it. I measured and I had clearance.
Retired and visiting as much of this beautiful country as I can.

352
Explorer
Explorer
OldRadios wrote:
Just got done with mine. 40x30 with storage upstairs. Our RV is 27' so putting in from the front is easy. Have the option of adding a door on the side later to take advantage of the longer length but I don't see us going with a bigger rig. If anything we would scale down some.
Second story floor stops just before the RV bay so I can walk and work on the roof inside the bay if needed.

Garage went up in December and floor just got poured a week ago. Going to let the floor in the RV bay set for a month before rolling the RV in. Building with O/H doors and openers was $27,500 and excavation and floor with outside apron was another $10,000. Did the electrical and hook-ups myself for around $800.



It is still not to late to keep water on the floor for a slower curing time to prevent cracking. Put a water sprinkler on it.
The manatees of Halls river Homosassa Springs Fl

1985 Chevy Silverado c10. 454 stroker / 495 CI = 675 HP. 650lb of torque. Turb0 400 tranny. 3000 stall converter. Aluminum heads. 3 inch exhaust flowmasters. 2 inch headers. Heat and air. Tubed.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Very nice!
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

OldRadios
Explorer
Explorer
Just got done with mine. 40x30 with storage upstairs. Our RV is 27' so putting in from the front is easy. Have the option of adding a door on the side later to take advantage of the longer length but I don't see us going with a bigger rig. If anything we would scale down some.
Second story floor stops just before the RV bay so I can walk and work on the roof inside the bay if needed.

Garage went up in December and floor just got poured a week ago. Going to let the floor in the RV bay set for a month before rolling the RV in. Building with O/H doors and openers was $27,500 and excavation and floor with outside apron was another $10,000. Did the electrical and hook-ups myself for around $800.

2006 Fleetwood 26Q
2010 Harley Softail Toad
2015 Ford Focus Toad
Upstate (the other) New York

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Best bet would be to get a bid from a local contractor. Local codes, covenants, permit fees, siting and a variety of other variables make an accurate estimate nearly impossible.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton