So I'm looking at building a home, unfortunatley, the development has HOA's which I'm not a fan of, but we're limited in our area and budget. With that being said, the builder can build me an RV garage 14x38 for my Travel trailer, which is fine with size as I don't plan on going bigger than that. However, the buildery wants to put a 10x12 door b/c they're concerned any bigger will scare potential buyers away from other homes. Granted my RV is only 8' wide, my concern is I'll be backing at a slight angle. Has anyone here had any success with a 10' wide RV garage door??

I'd be more concerned about the 12' height than the 10' width. My 5'er lists at 12'-6" w/ AC. And unless the door opens flush with the top, it could be less than 12' clear opening. I used to have a garage on my house (before converting the room), and the end of the door protruded about 4" down from the opening when fully opened.

One of these might helphttps://parkit360.ca/If it was me I would want 12 foot wide and 14 feet high door and 40 feet deep. Future buyers may have a MH or many collector cars or another need for a bigger storage area. If I could convince my DW to move that's the size of garage I would be looking for.

the bear II wrote:One of these might helphttps://parkit360.ca/If it was me I would want 12 foot wide and 14 feet high door and 40 feet deep. Future buyers may have a MH or many collector cars or another need for a bigger storage area. If I could convince my DW to move that's the size of garage I would be looking for.X2

The minimum size of the door is dependent upon the skill of the driver.but remember, the incline entering the door is a big factor as to size of hight of the door.

I agree with Tom/Barb on the angle of entrance. If your builder is going by the HOA'S specs I would approach the association to see if they would let you go 16' high on the garage. Your best case is a 16 X 40 at not that much more cost. With the 12' door the contractor is going to take up 2 feet of that with door hardware. even if you use a low clearance kit on the door hardware it still wouldn't be enough for me. Being a contractor I have seen similar, that the homeowners have gone to the HOA and explained his issues and not once was turned down. I'd try for the 16 X 40. Good Luck

RV Garage Door Size?? | Good Sam Community

ncrowley
Explorer II
Sep 17, 2017
With the mirrors on our Class A, the minimum width door we could have was 12 feet, and that left only a few inches if clearance. We decided to go with a 14 x 14 door, and are very happy we did. You can get any RV through that size door.
ExxWhy
Explorer
Sep 17, 2017
I have that exact size doors on my building, 12 high by 10 wide. It's pretty tight width wise, I always use a spotter. Height is fine for a TT, but we're positive there won't be a 5ver in our future. If I had to do it over again, I would suggest the 12' wide door.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Sep 16, 2017
Hammerboy wrote:
NJRVer wrote:
By the time you figure the door jambs and the weatherstrip stop that 10' wide will only be about 9'6".
That would give 9" of clearance on each side if you back perfectly right down the middle.

If you have only 9"6" net on a 10' garage door, somebody screwed up. Openings between the finish jambs are made to the overhead door size and then the weather strip is inside of that so maybe couple of inches less at most.

I always used a strip of doorstop and then the weatherstrip. While most around here use only the weatherstrip, on a very high door it looks ugly as each panel tilts as much as it can. With just a small amount of running clearance the panels are kept straight. Yes, some jamb the weather strip tight against the door, ignoring instructions, and the vinyl turns outward and has a short life.
Hammerboy
Explorer
Sep 16, 2017
NJRVer wrote:
Hammerboy wrote:
NJRVer wrote:
By the time you figure the door jambs and the weatherstrip stop that 10' wide will only be about 9'6".
That would give 9" of clearance on each side if you back perfectly right down the middle.

If you have only 9"6" net on a 10' garage door, somebody screwed up. Openings between the finish jambs are made to the overhead door size and then the weather strip is inside of that so maybe couple of inches less at most.

But anyway, an 8' trailer and the awning makes it somewhat tight. I put in a 12' wide door and have plenty of room. It's also a 12' 9" high door (building built as high as covenants would allow) I can theoretically go as high as 13' but didn't want a tight radius track. I have a front bedroom AC and have about 3" to spare.

Dan

Dan

Not done that way around here. You would end up with your track brackets fastened to the jamb instead of the stud.

Hmmm... must have different types of garage doors out east. I don't have enough fingers and toes for the amount of garage openings I framed in over the past 30+ years with finished openings at the doors stated size. But one thing we can agree on is 10' door is too small :B

Dan
Bob_Vaughn
Explorer
Sep 16, 2017
The wider the door the better .......You need to have a good view down both sides because once you start the rv into the door you could be blind as to what the rear is doing..........I painted orange stripes on my floor so I can see that the rv is tracking in the right direction and will end up where it needs to be to put the slides out on both sides......Get the highest door you can so in the future you can up grade to a 5th wheel.....
NJRVer
Explorer
Sep 16, 2017
Hammerboy wrote:
NJRVer wrote:
By the time you figure the door jambs and the weatherstrip stop that 10' wide will only be about 9'6".
That would give 9" of clearance on each side if you back perfectly right down the middle.

If you have only 9"6" net on a 10' garage door, somebody screwed up. Openings between the finish jambs are made to the overhead door size and then the weather strip is inside of that so maybe couple of inches less at most.

But anyway, an 8' trailer and the awning makes it somewhat tight. I put in a 12' wide door and have plenty of room. It's also a 12' 9" high door (building built as high as covenants would allow) I can theoretically go as high as 13' but didn't want a tight radius track. I have a front bedroom AC and have about 3" to spare.

Dan

Dan

Not done that way around here. You would end up with your track brackets fastened to the jamb instead of the stud.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Sep 15, 2017
RV is 8.5 feet wide. and variable height

Door should be at least six inches HIGHER than RV (1 foot is better) and 1 foot wider than RV (agin more is better)

I would suggest a "2 car" garage with a double wide door RV height plus 1 foot if you can talk him into it.
Hammerboy
Explorer
Sep 15, 2017
NJRVer wrote:
By the time you figure the door jambs and the weatherstrip stop that 10' wide will only be about 9'6".
That would give 9" of clearance on each side if you back perfectly right down the middle.

If you have only 9"6" net on a 10' garage door, somebody screwed up. Openings between the finish jambs are made to the overhead door size and then the weather strip is inside of that so maybe couple of inches less at most.

But anyway, an 8' trailer and the awning makes it somewhat tight. I put in a 12' wide door and have plenty of room. It's also a 12' 9" high door (building built as high as covenants would allow) I can theoretically go as high as 13' but didn't want a tight radius track. I have a front bedroom AC and have about 3" to spare.

Dan

Dan
bguy
Explorer
Sep 15, 2017
Better to go 12' wide. 10' will be pretty tight with an angled approach. BTW you don't lose much of the opening so a 10' door should be close to 10' opening. You could get used to it. The weather strip should be the only intrusion into the width. As for height you should easily come up with a 13' door to fit with 14' ceiling.
memtb
Explorer
Sep 15, 2017
dfoxhoven, I'm 14'x14' on mine, and don't regret it for a minute!