Hello All,I am brand new to towing and currently have just purchased a new Jayco White hawk 25BHS Travel trailer which has a dry weight of 5360 lbs and a hitch weight of approx. 600 lbs and GVWR of 6500 lbs. I plan on towing the trailer with my 2010 Dodge Ram SLT 1500 with 5.7 hemi and 3.92 gear towing package capable of around 10000 lbs towing.I have read lots of people stating that because of the coil suspension in my truck that I might require air bags to be installed to assist and keep the truck level. I have been looking at the Total Load Control option. Obviously I will be using a weight distribution hitch but I still have not decided which one to go with. I am currently deciding between the Equal-I-zer 1000 lbs 4 point hitch or the Reese Dual Cam hitch 800 lbs. I have read that the Equal-I-zer 1000 lbs might be too stiff for my trailer and makes quite a bit of noise but is easier to set up vs the Reese. My questions are two fold:1. Which hitch do you think I will need for the best ride and 2. Do you think that I will require air bags to keep my ride level and assist with my suspension?My dealer wants to install a Reese Pro Trunion 800 lb set up with no sway control for $349 plus tax but I'd rather spend a bit more for safety only if its needed. I also don't want to spend money on the air bags if they are not needed. They are currently on sale, so I would rather buy them now if I will need them. Thanks for your help,Rather do it right the first time.Pete

I have heard good and bad things about the suspension on your truck I think in order for you to really know what you are going to need you will just have to put it all together and see how she rolls. Experience is a much better teacher than letting someone tell you how to set it up. All be it a tad bit more expensive.

As for which hitch to use, my dad and I have used the equalizer on all 6 of our trailers and have nothing but praise for them. One great benefit is that you do not have to purchase a separate stabilizer for trailer sway, it is already built in. It is strong enough to make your truck and trailer level, provided you have the ball height at the recommended height. You will not be disappointed, and as for noise, I only heard noise when I had to make tight turns in backing into a spot and that was on my 1968 35 footer being pulled by a 1972 Ford LTD.I cannot comment on the suspension, I have not read anything averse about Dodge trucks and trailer pulling.

The Kragle wrote:I plan on towing the trailer with my 2010 Dodge Ram SLT 1500 with 5.7 hemi and 3.92 gear towing package capable of around 10000 lbs towing.Just keep in mind the tow rating is likely not an RV tow rating.I have read lots of people stating that because of the coil suspension in my truck that I might require air bags to be installed to assist and keep the truck level.Coil springs is not a problem. It's the spring rate. Ram offers coil springs in the 3/4 tons as well with higher spring rates.I am currently deciding between the Equal-I-zer 1000 lbs 4 point hitch or the Reese Dual Cam hitch 800 lbs. I have read that the Equal-I-zer 1000 lbs might be too stiff for my trailer and makes quite a bit of noise but is easier to set up vs the Reese. Those are generally my understanding as well. I picked the Reese Strait Line. When it's adjusted well, 75mph is comfortable. When it's adjusted poorly, 60mph is scary. This has happened with 2 trucks and my TT tows behind a dually with no WDH at 72mph without problem. So should you choose the Reese, understand how to adjust it well. The EQ 1000 is designed for traielrs with 400-1000 pounds of TW. It won't be too stiff for your truck or TT. I use 1200 pound bars with my 500 pound dry TW trailer.1. Which hitch do you think I will need for the best ride and 2. Do you think that I will require air bags to keep my ride level and assist with my suspension?1: Get the cheaper one. There are not enough significant differences IMHO in effectiveness, sound, etc.2: My opinion is that air bags have no place with TTs. They at best complicate WDH adjustment and often mask overloaded situations. If you install a WDH such that the front axle weight is fully restored and the rear of the truck (fender height) sags more than 1.5" from unloaded, you are probably overloaded. That said, it seems that many 2009+ Ram half ton owners towing RVs use rear suspension aids.

Hitch up and go camping. Your Ram will have no problem with that trailer. It's very similar in weight to our old trailer I pulled with my Tundra. As for the hitch, they're both good choices so it comes down to personal preference. You should not need airbags either, but can always add them later.

Go with the 1000 lbs equalizer. Youll never look back. With weaker springs you want heavier bars. Make sure its set up properly.A must is to go to the cat scales after and now all your weights.. This way the are no ifs, ands, or buts....!!!!!

Setting up new Trailer | Good Sam Community

stratcat
Explorer
Jun 07, 2014
I tow a TT loaded weight 7500lbs. with 2013 Silverado 1500 with tow package. Use a w/d hitch with no problems. You need to remember the towing capacity is determined by the loaded trailer weight plus the loaded truck weight.(fuel, cargo and occupants)
johninedmonton
Explorer
Jun 06, 2014
I would strongly consider the Andersen No-Sway WD Hitch if I were you. I moved from a Reese to this last year, and I would never look back. When properly dialed in, they both performed about the same. But the Andersen is so much easier to dial in consistently.

I will admit that towing experts will confidently get a bar system to work right every time, but for this noob it was a relief to have the Andersen make it so easy. I could really get it

As for the airbags; they can make towing lot easier if the trailer is still raising your nose. But I would tow with your Ram a few times before making that decision. Not 8 hours of towing, but an hour or so would help you to properly understand how your TV and TT are working together. It should be fine, but only you can make that decision.

( I have a 8,000 lb. TT behind a Ford Excursion Diesel, and I use airbags to level things out. Just for additional safety and control. )
2012Oudoorsman
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
I have 2012 ram 1500 outdoorsman with 1200# equalizer. The hitch is a great hitch when set up properly which may take you some time. I also have the airlift 1000 bags. I personally air the bags down when towing as they have only caused me issues. I have heard of others that love them when towing. I do haul firewood and this is when I air them up and I love them for that. I have had them one year and no issues.
Total loaf control is a much different airbag and will actually raise the truck. I'm pretty sure you posted on ramforumz.com about towing with truck. I read on there that a guy with a. leveled truck installed the TLC setup and it raised the rear 2" with only 5psi. It is also much more expensive.

Personally I wouldn't install anything but hitch. No matter what truck you have you will get porposing effect. If you dislike it with just the hitch you could install the airbags.
APT
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
Campfire Time wrote:

Two things. Some manufacturers allow a slightly raised front fender height. I'm not sure if Dodge does but it should be in the manual. GM does not. I think Ford allows for half the distance of the raise before the WD is applied.

That is correct, 2001+ F150 and 2014+ GM half tons state t orestore only half the weight lost (or height increased) on the front axle.

"sags more than 1.5" from unloaded, you are probably overloaded."

I've read this in people's postings but have never seen it written in any owners manuals (not GMs anyway) or anywhere else. It's not a bad "rule" to keep it close to lever, mine have always been right in line with this, but unless the rear squat is dramatic like 3" I can't see this being an issue if everything else is setup properly and the trailer is level.

There is no specification on the rear axle weight/height when adjusting a WDH. Set the front and the rear is whatever it ends up being. My 1.5" comes from personal experience with two TVs and summary of what other RVers report on these forums. When the front is at net zero weight/height, the rear ends up being about 1.5" lower than unloaded height when the truck is at GVWR. This works out really well with body on frame pickups and SUVs because they tend to sit about 2" higher in the rear than front when unloaded. So when I see other vehicles towing and the rear is lower than the front, I think their WDH is not adjusted correctly (or they don't have one and need one) or they are overloaded.

Reports on here from half ton towing RVers show that rear axle weights are very close to the rear axle ratings. That is one reason why I would tend to restore 100% of front axle weight vs. the recent Ford/GM recommendations.
lbrjet
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
Agree with Ron. Adjust the new EQ correctly and you will have zero problems.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jun 03, 2014
Why would you replace your factory engineered rear springs with an aftermarket spring? The Chrysler engineers know what they are doing so hitch your trailer up and go camping. Coil springs are used on locomotives btw. You're over thinking a problem that does not exist. Stop worrying about it and get out there. You've got a fine truck so put it to use. Your Ram will pull that little trailer around like a toy.
The_Kragle
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
Thanks to everyone for their assistance, I think that I will go with the 1000lb Equal-i-zer hitch and hold off on the Total Load Control air bags for now due to finances.

I have been looking at the Air Lift 1000 air helper springs which seem very reasonably priced.

Does anyone have any feedback on these kits when used with a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab?

I might just end up replacing the coil springs with some new variable rate springs like these:

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18391&zenid=b19113e98ee4cb5d502ab7eb783d93db

Although I read that it is suggested to replace the shocks at the same time which would be expensive lol.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Pick up trailer on June 12th
fla-gypsy
Explorer
May 30, 2014
1. Dual Cam 800#
2. No
Campfire_Time
Explorer
May 30, 2014
Keep in mind that if you run that trailer at it s GVWR your hitch weight could be well over 800#. That's not bad, your truck can handle that, you just need to be aware. All the more reason to get the 1000# bars.

APT wrote:
If you install a WDH such that the front axle weight is fully restored and the rear of the truck (fender height) sags more than 1.5" from unloaded, you are probably overloaded. That said, it seems that many 2009+ Ram half ton owners towing RVs use rear suspension aids.

Two things. Some manufacturers allow a slightly raised front fender height. I'm not sure if Dodge does but it should be in the manual. GM does not. I think Ford allows for half the distance of the raise before the WD is applied.

"sags more than 1.5" from unloaded, you are probably overloaded."

I've read this in people's postings but have never seen it written in any owners manuals (not GMs anyway) or anywhere else. It's not a bad "rule" to keep it close to lever, mine have always been right in line with this, but unless the rear squat is dramatic like 3" I can't see this being an issue if everything else is setup properly and the trailer is level.
lawrosa
Explorer
May 30, 2014
Go with the 1000 lbs equalizer. Youll never look back. With weaker springs you want heavier bars.

Make sure its set up properly.

A must is to go to the cat scales after and now all your weights.. This way the are no ifs, ands, or buts....!!!!!