Stabilizer question on TT, what's your rule of thumb

Raising them up on blocks will reduce side-side motion but you can also use stabilizer struts like BAL Lockarms or JT Strongarms to do that and will do a better job. The BAL ones can be bought as a pair only instead of 4. A pair at the rear only makes quite an improvement. If you want to see where your TT movement is and how much, watch the rear jacks close up while someone walks up/down the steps.

Rule of thumb is to extend them no more than half way. Sometimes that is no possible and you need to go more. Install the JT Strongarm braces if you want more stability. They really do help in reducing trailer wiggle when set up.

Normy wrote:
Great pic gallery! I like the mods you did, someday you should label them so it's clearer to some who like me don't have an electronic background.

As noted at the beginning of my gallery when you select any pic just click on "i" (for Info) at the top right and a text description will be displayed for that pic. I'd prefer this was turned on permanently but it's a function of Google Photos.

Normy wrote:
With your hinged board with the links, are you using them folded for extra height (a set each per axle) or just as shown, then folded and stored to save linear space? If the latter, what are you doing for extra height if needed, more wood?

As shown in the pics I have extra Lynx for whenever I need extra lift. The base boards are hinged because they're easier to carry and store.

SoundGuy wrote:

Normy wrote:
For years I been placing blocks under my stabilizer pads (scissor style) high enough to not fully extend them thinking they would help keep less movement. Don't get me wrong there are many times I needed more blocks for the uneven site heights.

What's your rule of thumb on how much you prefer to extend them? Does it even make a difference either way?

I do have the X-chocks between the wheels. These are the longer version for the spread. Some claim they help with movement, I agree there but I'm talking something different.

I carry four 4-high stacks of plastic blocks, each screwed together for easier handling.



On "normal" sites I use one 4-high stack under each stab, on a tongue high site I'd use a double height stack under each of the 2 high stabs and a single Lynx pad under each of the other two stabs so the stabs don't dig into the ground. I never use nothing under the stabs and feel it's worth carrying these plastic stacks just for this purpose.

FWIW, this is my preferred method of leveling / chocking the trailer ... simple, easy to store, and the trailer is as stable as it's going to ever get. :B More pics are in my gallery.

Great pic gallery! I like the mods you did, someday you should label them so it's clearer to some who like me don't have an electronic background. Curious about the inverter mod

With your hinged board with the links, are you using them folded for extra height (a set each per axle) or just as shown, then folded and stored to save linear space? If the latter, what are you doing for extra height if needed, more wood?

Thanks
Normy

More info: the 2014 Primetime tracker has crud for under storage compared to anything I had previous, and I pull with a 2011 Yukon standard length. I shoulda kept the truck, but that's a story for another day.

I need to get creative to reduce volume and some weight. I really dislike putting wet crud covered wood in the back but I do it. I do have (2) 10-pack Lego Levelers I have used as side leveling and stable blocks but I would need (4) more 10-packs with the sites I seem to end up in. I carry assorted 1-by's and 2 by 8 & 10's I collected over the years, they tend to split the long way. I have a bunch of 4x4 shorts from an old deck build I use under the stabs and raising the slinky line (again I sometimes need to get creative with the camp site sewer connections). With the pickup, was never an issue with boards....( don't say it! I know getting a truck solves a lot of this, I kick myself every camping trip ;( ..)

I was worried extending the scissor stabs would cause more movement, and this TT seems higher for stabilizing no matter how level the sites are.

Any other light weight products strong I should consider for leveling and stability?

Thanks
Normy

Depends on the slope and footing what you need. But Generally lees stabilize extension is a bit more stable.
IDK, blocks seem cheap, light and easy to carry. Better to have options imo.

I regularly place 2x6 blocks under the stabilizers. Partly to limit the distance I have to extend them and partly to help spread out the footprint of the stabilizer on the ground.

I carry 6x6 blocks with rope handles and place them under the rear stabilizers so they do not extend as much....wider the stance the more stable/less wobble

X-chocks/wheel chocks on both sides

After setting up side/side and chocks----disconnect from truck
Run front landing gear legs until trailer is level (or tongue jack on bumper pull)
Then lower front 1" below level.......run rear stabilizers down onto the blocks until SNUG
Raise front of trailer back up to level.

Rig is now 'tight/stable'

Next AM tighten up on X-chocks

For stabilizers I suggest using plastic blocks. Lighter. I was going to burn my “excess” boards last week, then used every one of them to level at Annette’s Mono Village.

Normy wrote:
For years I been placing blocks under my stabilizer pads (scissor style) high enough to not fully extend them thinking they would help keep less movement. Don't get me wrong there are many times I needed more blocks for the uneven site heights.

What's your rule of thumb on how much you prefer to extend them? Does it even make a difference either way?

I do have the X-chocks between the wheels. These are the longer version for the spread. Some claim they help with movement, I agree there but I'm talking something different.

I carry four 4-high stacks of plastic blocks, each screwed together for easier handling.



On "normal" sites I use one 4-high stack under each stab, on a tongue high site I'd use a double height stack under each of the 2 high stabs and a single Lynx pad under each of the other two stabs so the stabs don't dig into the ground. I never use nothing under the stabs and feel it's worth carrying these plastic stacks just for this purpose.

FWIW, this is my preferred method of leveling / chocking the trailer ... simple, easy to store, and the trailer is as stable as it's going to ever get. :B More pics are in my gallery.