tires/snow rating / not worry? / chains are solution?

[LosAngeles]

Hello all you nice people. 🙂

I'm about to custom order a 2020 F350 4 x 4 and according to Ford the tires included are: LT275/70Rx18E BSW A/T. These are to get the E load rating on the tires needed to get 11,500 GVWR.

I am told I don’t have any choice in what tire is used by Ford - that this is what will arrive. I’m also told that Ford will use any brand of tires. No way to tell or select in advance.

The question is - what are the odds that these tires will be snow rated?

More to the point - should I actually care if they are snow rated?

I have encountered places where the tires needed to be snow rated, or you have to carry chains, IIRC.

So should I just buy a set of chains and call it good? Thanks. Just asking to learn. I will be encountering snow.

[bpounds]

valhalla360 wrote:
...if it's important, it's a simple solution...

I don't believe it is a viable solution.

What is a done-every-day solution is to just buy the truck. Swap tires to whatever you want, and there is a pretty good market for take-off tires, so you'll get a portion of the cost back. Probably come out better than how a dealer would mark it up.

I actually inquired about the dealer changing out tires prior to delivery of a truck. They told me Ford does not allow them to do that. Now, I'm not saying I believe that. Just repeating what they told me. I didn't press him on it, but I'm sure they had trucks sitting there with all kinds of dealer added lifts and lights and bling. Calling a seller a liar usually doesn't help ones negotiating position.

[Grit_dog]

^ Well you actually agreed with me, but my point was why be so fickle as to try to specify the brand, model and born on date for the tires on a BRAND NEW truck?
That's just weird bro.

[ppine]

IN summary, avoid pulling a trailer in the snow.

[valhalla360]

Grit dog wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
When you sign the papers, simply add a note that the tires shall be model XXXXXXXXXXX or as approved by the buyer with a manufacture date no older than X months from the date of delivery.

If it shows up with different tires, point to the clause and tell them to fix it.

ROFL.
I’m not even a car salesman, but if I was I’d tell you to pound sand on a request like that, unless I added the $ to your bill to cover a new set of tires....just because.

Obviously, you aren't a salesman if you would tell me to pound sand rather than just adjust the price accordingly. I never said it would be a zero cost change.

Personally, it's not important to me but if the OP feels it's important, it's a simple solution and you can bet if the salesman is salivating over a $50k sale, he will figure out how to work it into the deal.

[Grit_dog]

valhalla360 wrote:
When you sign the papers, simply add a note that the tires shall be model XXXXXXXXXXX or as approved by the buyer with a manufacture date no older than X months from the date of delivery.

If it shows up with different tires, point to the clause and tell them to fix it.

ROFL.
I’m not even a car salesman, but if I was I’d tell you to pound sand on a request like that, unless I added the $ to your bill to cover a new set of tires....just because.

[bpounds]

Best tire chain advice I can give, is this...

Install them on your tires at home in your driveway. Learn to do it there, not with frozen hands on a highway pull-out, laying in the slushy snow. This also proves they fit, and they might need an excess link or two cut off. Also, learn how to do it without jacking the tire off the ground, or using any of those silly ramps they sell.

[time2roll]

LosAngeles wrote:
Any recommendations for chains that won’t break if I use them, but are cost effective? Also self tightening and easy to install.

Any supplier is about the same. Choose the style best for your use and expectations.

Diamond for smoother ride and says easier install.

Cables for minimum legal requirements.

MD Twisted for lower cost and minimal use.

Alloy for more extended use and additional grip.

HD for additional strength in tough conditions.

V-Bar for maximum traction and service life in the toughest conditions.

https://www.tirechain.com/Truck-Tire-Chains.HTM Amazon, PepBoys, JC Whitney, AutoAnything etc is fine too. Just know what style you want.

To reduce chance of breaking don't spin the wheels and inspect after every use. Inspect more frequently if required to run on the roadway with minimal or patchy snow.

[bpounds]

LosAngeles wrote:

Any recommendations for chains that won’t break if I use them...

I haven't bought any in so long I'm not going to recommend a source to buy new ones. I've been lengthening, shortening, or otherwise adjusting the same chains to fit trucks and Jeep as they come and go. I keep an eye open at yard sales too. Avoid buying brand new if you can. Whether you can find them local to you will depend on where you live. Can't find good ones here in So Cal. Maybe a Tractor Supply???

I did buy a pair a few years ago from some online place that just sold chains. Tirechain.com comes to mind, but that could be wrong. Ended up not liking them, didn't like the price either, and paid way too much for shipping them back for refund. Good chains for truck sized tires are heavy to ship.

I just use the rubber tensioners, and carry some baling wire to tie down loose ends, secure the couplers, etc.

[LosAngeles]

Thanks everyone for all the great thoughts.

I am actually ordering the truck thru a broker, who then is actually working with a dealer, but it means zero dealer “negotiations”. But I save tons of money and zero hassle. Have done this a few times before. Highly recommended. Perhaps not for everyone.

Anyway - so I will get chains - for just in case - but will try to avoid using them.

Any recommendations for chains that won’t break if I use them, but are cost effective? Also self tightening and easy to install.

Thanks.

[JIMNLIN]

OP wrote:
I'm about to custom order a 2020 F350 4 x 4 and according to Ford the tires included are: LT275/70Rx18E BSW A/T. These are to get the E load rating on the tires needed to get 11,500 GVWR.

JFI.. a side note here....
tires are fitted to the vehicles axle ratings per fed regs ...not the vehicles GVWR.
A F350 srw may have a 6000 FAWR and a 7230 RAWR = 13230 lbs.
Now the vehicle mfg chooses a tires capacity to equal or exceed that number like the size you mention. This gives the truck a 14500 lb combined tire load rating which covers your trucks 11500 GVWR nicely with plenty of reserve capacity for carrying max axle loads.

The wifes 1500 chevy 4wd has P265/70-17 all season tread which carry a M+S rating.

[valhalla360]

When you sign the papers, simply add a note that the tires shall be model XXXXXXXXXXX or as approved by the buyer with a manufacture date no older than X months from the date of delivery.

If it shows up with different tires, point to the clause and tell them to fix it.

[Grit_dog]

^ Fair enough, my sarcasm got too thick, apologies.
If you will be all over the country in the winter with the truck then different conditions than just the midwest for sure.
But, with that, I personally still would not even consider buying tire chains unless you're off roading in the snow.
Siped tires are the real deal though. Not going to turn a Hyundai into a snow cat, but it's 90% the difference between traction with normal tires and traction with dedicated ice and snow tires.

[LosAngeles]

Grit dog wrote:
LA, how do you sleep at night worrying about this stuff??
Get your truck, where you live you will not want, wish for or need chains unless you're trying to rip up a snomachine trail with a foot of packed snow on it.
You could have d@mn near bald tires and since you're planning on carrying around 3klbs of dead weight all winter in the bed, you will get about as good of traction as physically possible.

Yes, you can buy waaaay better traction tires for mud, ice, snow than whatever will show up on most any new truck. That is a given, save for special edition type trucks that actually come with tires that people WANT to have. The rest are mediocre, typically value line tires, however they are sufficient for most purposes, at least through the first half of their treadlife.

If you do feel the need for more snow/ice traction, take the OE tires, whatever they are and go have them siped as deep as the shop will sipe them (.5" is usually max). That will turn a mediocre set of ht/at type tires into good snow and ice tires.

LOL ... I actually *enjoy* learning stuff from people much smarter than me.

Classic example - I had no idea about "siped" tires or the possibility to do it aftermarket... but now I do, thanks to you. 🙂

yeah it did occur to me that the 3,000 lbs in the bed of the truck will help with traction, LOL. 🙂

I get tons of info from nice people like yourself on these forums.... i promise that my posts will get less frequent once i am out camping in the new RV.

amd yes I will be in both CA and also the midwest (and all places in between) with our pop up truck camper... so the more i know about snow, etc... the better. 🙂

thanks to all who have commented. Awesome. 🙂

J.

[Lwiddis]

"So should I just buy a set of chains and call it good?"

Yes. I carry chains (for the TT and TV) and have M&S tires.

[bpounds]

I hate to think what link chains would do to my E rated tires if I used them carrying the load of a fifth wheel. I would avoid that if at all possible.

But then, we use our trucks for many things other than towing heavy trailers.

Grit dog wrote:
...where you live you will not want, wish for or need chains...

L.A. and I live near each other, and it's an hour drive to find heavy snow and ski areas. And camping. He is smart to be prepared.

I will give you this though - our CHP pushes the panic button when the first snow flake hits the pavement, compared to any other western state. So yes, overkill if you live anywhere else.