Tongue Weight Question

geelow26 wrote:
Please let me know if I'm going to the wrong direction...

A few comments ...

Those trailer weight numbers you're referring to appear to be brochure weights, not the actual weights of the particular unit you might buy ... those are the numbers you want, particularly a unit's dry weight as it left the factory, which is indicated on a sticker affixed to the trailer's street sidewall. To that weight you'd want to add the weight of propane and a battery added later by the dealer plus the weight of any water you may want to carry. With any of these trailers which will all have a relatively low GVWR that will leave you with very little CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity) ... that's important because if you can't carry it in your trailer due to lack of capacity it's going to have to go in your TV instead and that in turn will further reduce your vehicle's already meagre payload capacity, particularly if you also plan to carry any passengers at all. As for weight distribution, allowing just 75 lbs may be a little shy, especially if it's a simple trunnion or round bar chain type system that also requires the use of a separate friction sway bar. Most WD systems that integrate sway control into the design will also weigh quite a bit ... IIRC my Equal-i-zer added ~ 90 lbs, the Blue Ox Sway Pro is well over 100 lbs, so if the additional weight of a WD system is a concern you might want to consider an Andersen No Sway WD system which would only add ~ 50 lbs. Finally, be aware that any properly sized and adjusted weight distribution system will transfer weight to both the TV's front steer axle (which is what you're trying to achieve) AND some back to the trailer's axle(s). With a marginal TV such as you have you really do need to go weigh your particular vehicle, with a full tank of gas, then crunch the numbers to see what you really have to work with, particularly payload capacity which will unquestionably be your Achilles Heel. ;)