Torque Multiplier Lug Wrench

[Tvov]

Anyone ever use (or see) one of these? I just stumbled across it on the internet. I've never seen or used one.

EZ Lug Wrench Torque Multiplier:

http://ezlugwrench.com/

[creeper]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:



How do you know it..."WORKED WELL" ??..:R~

How do you know your torque wrench is calibrated correct or works well? That fact is you don't., You're at the mercy who ever made the torque device you're using :R

These are not Costco clowns or cheap harbor freight torque wrenches. A professional tire outfit that specializes in Trucks and buses. I certainly appears to have worked well, the wheels haven't fallen off and they have a stellar reputation in the community.

Nor is anything I could purchase as well made or as expensive as the Snap on stuff they use.

The impact gun was used to get close and then their torque gizmo did the rest. It moves very slowly and you can watch the torque as it's applied on they gauge.

Like I said you have no idea if your manual torque wrench is accurate.

[Dtank]

Good (tire shop) words to live by!

And more.....

TORQUE WRENCHES 101:

1. For pickups, TTs & 5th Wheels.

Harbor Freight - good deal (for the price), but short length.
Xln't to toss in your RV compt and forget it.

For home use - the Husky brand from Home Depot (under $100) - is 26" long, with a limited lifetime warranty. Max TQ is 250 ft lbs.

The Harbor Freight breaker bar (or similar) is "OK" - however the pin holding the head can break (had that happen before)..:(
A better choice is a 3/4 "sliding head T-bar" type.
(No pin to break!).

Unless *designed* to remove lugs (etc.), these types of TQ wrenches should *not* be used as a breaker bar or used with a "cheater" for that purpose..:(

Also, always "zero it out" when done, and it's good idea to check your wrench from time-to-time.
See YouTube for lots of "How To": Enter - "Torque Wrench Calibration".

********************************************************************

2. Motor Homes & MDT/HDT - "serious" TQ necessary!

A TQ wrench - like Mod Barney is holding - will run about $200-300 - or more.
The 3/4 drive "Klutch" brand in your 2016 Spring Northern Tool Catalog (pg. 432) is $250., and with a 4:5:1 planetary gear ratio, delivers low torque (488 ft lbs) to high torque of 2200 ft pounds.
Performance Tool brand (same page), range 100-600 ft lbs is $300.

Also see Proto tools etc., for "pro" type TQ multipliers = lots more dollars - and no need to have the monster Barney is holding.

Back to "Tvov" - the OP's question....

Nice "cheap-O" multiplier info and "tutorial" w/pics here..

DIY *HDT* Tire Changing Method

Another Torque Multiplier thread...*here*.
The inexpensive multiplier (Northern Tool) linked in the first post is no longer available, but it was similar to what Tvov referenced and avail on lots of internet sources.

Happy CQ-ing - oops, edit! - That's Ham lingo, I mean "TQ-ing"..:C



:B

[ol_Bombero-JC]

creeper wrote:
Just had a tire replaced and the tire shop used a pneumatic version of this, but it had a torque setting in it. First time I've seen something like that and worked well.

Hope it's the last time you see "something like that"!..:(

How do you know it..."WORKED WELL" ??..:R

Prone to error/s for several reasons!..:S

Only takes one "experience" to learn:
An error will result in over torqued lugs stretched or broken studs.
A local repair shop did a great business in replacing broken studs (at Costco's expense) until they (Costco) figured out the following......

A competent tire shop employee will only use a "pneumatic version" (air impact with TQ settings) to get *close* to the desired torque -
....then final torque is done with a *manual* torque wrench.

And - YOU better hear it click *after* torque is applied - which should *NOT* be immediate!
(Otherwise it's over torqued).

There is NO substitute to/for the above method - -
and NO way for you to check on what your lugs were torqued to - w/o backing-off the lugs (loosening) and re-torquing......unless the shop torqued them to *less than* the desired setting.
(Still bad - *maybe* just not *as* bad as over-torquing!)

At tire shop/s:
Know the required TQ for your wheels.
Make sure you AND the employee are in agreement.
(He may have been employed by Taco Bell last week!)

WATCH the wheel mounting - should be the above..:@
(Repeat) You should see some movement -however slight- and hear his wrench click *after* TQ is applied - which should *NOT* be immediate!!
If not, call a halt to the operation!..:(

It will/may save *your* time - and of *YOU* being "torqued" - while waiting for stud replacement!..;)




~

[reluyog]

jwmll, yeah you figured it correctly. 3/4" input and 1" output. I pack a 1" drive air impact but don't have adequate air supply when I'm on the road, not yet anyway. I'd like to figure that out just to have it, but it's low priority.

[BarneyS]

Get yourself one of these!
Barney

[jwmII]

reluyog wrote:
I carry a conventional torque multiplier and a 3/4" drive torque wrench, but haven't had to use it yet. Previously used a 3/4" breaker bar with a five foot cheater pipe. I'm hoping the multiplier is less work.

Your setup will work great but check your multiplier on the input side as many in your size are 1/2" drive input and 3/4" drive on the output. As I understand your post I am reading it as 3/4" drive on the input side. I use a Proto 6:1 multiplier and it is 1/2" drive on the input side and 3/4" on the output side.

[hone_eagle]

I used one on a friends volvo -500 ft/lbs no problem just very slow but it does the job.
A warning however it was exhausting ,the ratio was I think 125 to 1 so a lot of cranking at a fairly high effort,got the old ticker pumping.

[CavemanCharlie]

Georgew48 wrote:

CavemanCharlie wrote:
For the price of the Torque Multiplier you could almost purchase a cordless impact for taking the lugs loose and a torque wrench to put them back on.

Good luck with that. I got mine for 49.95 on eBay. A good torque wrench that will give you 450 pounds of torque will run you about 400.00 bucks.

Your right of course if you own a Class A and need to torque the wheels to 450 foot pounds.

The OP has a picture of a TT in his signature and would not need to torque his wheels nearly that tight.

I didn't think about you big boys when I posted my response. Sorry.

[reluyog]

I carry a conventional torque multiplier and a 3/4" drive torque wrench, but haven't had to use it yet. Previously used a 3/4" breaker bar with a five foot cheater pipe. I'm hoping the multiplier is less work.

[creeper]

Just had a tire replaced and the tire shop used a pneumatic version of this, but it had a torque setting in it. First time I've seen something like that and worked well.

[fj12ryder]

That doesn't really solve the tightening part though, so you still need a torque wrench. 🙂 Milwaukee makes some very good tools. I'm partial to Dewalt, but that's because that's what I have. 🙂

[Happy_Prospecto]

What you guys need is something like this. It's the bee's knee's when changing tires or such. Other tool makers make them depending what color you're into.


The information is out there, all you have to do is let it in.

[wilber1]

I use a 1/2" drive bar with an impact socket and piece of pipe. Sometimes I have to borrow my son in law's 3/4 drive stuff and use a longer pipe. Not for lug nuts though.

[Gjac]

When I first bought the MH I had a hard time removing the lug nuts. After twisting several extensions(Chinese) I found some old Stanley extensions that were hardened and with a breaker bar and a steel pipe extension I was able to remove the lug nuts. So know I carry a 1/2 in breaker bar 2 ft long with a 2 ft pipe the I keep on the bar and a 4 in extension to clear the rim. It will be a lot cheaper than spending $150 for a torque multiplier. Once you remove the lug nuts and apply the proper torque you won't have to go through this again.