Towing Advice

[brioux1]

I am looking at buying a new TT and want to make sure I am looking at models I can tow safely and easily. I understand I will need a Weight Distributing Hitch. To be honest I've had a hard time getting a clear answer on this from TT dealerships or my vehicle dealership. Every time I enquire I just get the "Oh your fine, you can tow anything" answer. This isn't sitting well with me so I thought who better to ask then real RVrs. I know its all about the specs of the tow vehicle so I will do my best to provide this below.

2014 Ram 1500 Big Horn 5.7L Hemi w/ Tow package Crew Cab 6'4" box

From The Sicker on the door:

GVWR 6800 LB
GAWR Front 3900 LB
Rear 3900 LB
Info- Tire and loading
combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1070 lbs. (this one confuses me)

From Manual:

Towing- 10,000 lb.
Payload- 1520 lb.

If I have left out any relevant info please let me know. I am a little new to this so I may have missed something.

Finally, I will be traveling with my wife and two young children. Basically I just want to know what weight of TT I should be looking at.

Any help will be much appreciate
Thanks

[bid_time]

One other thing to consider. Lets say for instance you take that bike and genny and put them in the TT. That frees up about 100 lbs of payload and only adds about 12 lbs to the tongue weight (assuming you put the weight basically over the axle of the TT).

[Grit_dog]

brioux1 wrote:
Ok, first I would like to quickly thank all the members on this forum for the great advice.
I loaded my Ram 1500 with the family, a bike, a small geny and tool box. Took it to a cat scale and weighed it. came in at 6,450 lbs. My GVWR is 6,800 lbs. Leaves me with 350lbs. Minus another 70lbs for the WD hitch and I'm at 280lbs. If I went with a trailer with a hitch weight of 600lbs I would be over roughly 300lbs. My question is is this a lot? would it have huge repercussion? or could I squeak by?
Thanks

I agree 32' of trailer is a lot to pull behind most any 1500, especially if new at towing.
Handling a (any) big trailer without previous experience should be more of concern than being a little over on payload ratings.
Personally I don't believe being a few/500lbs over your very low payload rating, as it's mostly derived from the gvw limit on class 1 trucks and you happen to have a pretty heavy pickup. I wouldn't consider it squeaking by from a payload or tow rating perspective.
As Idad said, have some stiff LT tires and may need airbags or Timbrens pick up the slack a little.
All that said, I'd want to stick to a mid 20s length and around 6klbs for a totally comfortable experience.

And as has been said here before. What's comfortable to one may be a white knuckle experience for another.

[TurnThePage]

IdaD wrote:
Your tire rating is critical and is on the sidewall. If you're going to push the limit you might look at upgrading to higher rated LT tires and even bags/timbrens. No they don't raise the rv.net rating but in the real world they will help carry the load better.

With the exceptionally low payload that the OP has shared, I'll venture a guess that the truck might already have the weighty OEM air suspension. The LT tires are probably not a bad idea, but the OEM tires do exceed the meager 3900 lb axle rating easily. With a good weight distributing hitch, I wouldn't hesitate going with a 600 lb trailer tongue weight.

[BenK]

IT all depends on how you drive, where you drive (terrain, inclines,
headwinds, etc, etc) and more etc, etc

A bit over the OEM rating won't have the wheels instantly fall off...but....they
will fall sooner...

Note that the OEMs are required to meet min performance criteria set
by the government regulatory agencies.

That is at the maximum rating (GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR). Meaning things
like stopping distance...NOTE that if over the OEM ratings...it will
take longer to stop. Not maneuver as well, etc, etc

Additional comments embedded below in red

brioux1 wrote:
I am looking at buying a new TT and want to make sure I am looking at models I can tow safely and easily. I understand I will need a Weight Distributing Hitch. To be honest I've had a hard time getting a clear answer on this from TT dealerships or my vehicle dealership. Every time I enquire I just get the "Oh your fine, you can tow anything" answer.

It is their job to sell...and...it is their paycheck for rent/food/etc
that is on the line for 'them'

You, the OP, need to understand that and read up to learn how the
OEM ratings systems works...first decide if you believe in them or not

If not, then do whatever but know that you have taken all the OEMs in
this food chain off the warranty hook (if any left) and the biggie
Liability hook...to own it yourself (maybe your insurance too)

This isn't sitting well with me so I thought who better to ask then real RVrs. I know its all about the specs of the tow vehicle so I will do my best to provide this below.

2014 Ram 1500 Big Horn 5.7L Hemi w/ Tow package Crew Cab 6'4" box

From The Sicker on the door:

GVWR 6800 LB

low end of the lowest class pickup/SUV...many
are in the +7K lb range

GAWR Front 3900 LB
Rear 3900 LB

Again, on the low side of the lowest class pickup/SUV.
Example is the next higher class pickup/SUV will have FGAWR in the
+4K range and RGAWR in the +6K range

Info- Tire and loading
combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1070 lbs. (this one confuses me)

This is specific to each tire, so check your tire sidewall and that
weight rating is at the sidewall listed max PSI

From Manual:

Towing- 10,000 lb.
Payload- 1520 lb.

MTWR (max tow weight rating) listed of 10,000 has fine print at the
bottom of that manual section...it stated base or curb vehicle with
tow option and one 150lb driver.

Any other options will have their weight subtract from that MTWR pound
for pound

Payload is what the TV is rated for as built from the factory

If I have left out any relevant info please let me know. I am a little new to this so I may have missed something.

Finally, I will be traveling with my wife and two young children. Basically I just want to know what weight of TT I should be looking at.

Any help will be much appreciate
Thanks

[IdaD]

Your tire rating is critical and is on the sidewall. If you're going to push the limit you might look at upgrading to higher rated LT tires and even bags/timbrens. No they don't raise the rv.net rating but in the real world they will help carry the load better.

[camp-n-family]

brioux1 wrote:

Nate1979 wrote:
Personally in the past I have not worried about going a few hundred pounds over my previous 1/2ton payload as long as I was within the tire and all axle ratings. For such a small difference (300lb vs 600lb) I would have done it in my personal case but that is up to you. Especially when you are well below the GCWR of the truck-trailer combo. Just remember that should be actual hitch weights, not imaginary low numbers in the brochure.

So just one more question, how do I determine if I'm under or over my tire and axle ratings mine are:
Front 3900
Rear 3900

Did the scale not have separate axle weights? If not, go back and just pull the front axle on it. Subtract that from the full weight. The majority of the tongue weight will be carried by the rear axle. A few hundred pounds over payload won't kill it but I wouldn't go over the axle and tire ratings. As mentioned, make sure you use actual tongue weights and not the brochure weight. The brochure is for an empty trailer with no options. Most storage areas are at the front as are the batteries and propane tanks. The actual weight will be several hundred pounds higher.

[brioux1]

Nate1979 wrote:
Personally in the past I have not worried about going a few hundred pounds over my previous 1/2ton payload as long as I was within the tire and all axle ratings. For such a small difference (300lb vs 600lb) I would have done it in my personal case but that is up to you. Especially when you are well below the GCWR of the truck-trailer combo. Just remember that should be actual hitch weights, not imaginary low numbers in the brochure.

So just one more question, how do I determine if I'm under or over my tire and axle ratings mine are:
Front 3900
Rear 3900

[bikendan]

with the weak rear suspension of the Ram 1500, i'd be worried.

plus that "dry" hitch weight of 600lbs., will be a lot more with batteries, propane, water and trailer cargo.

dry weights are fantasy weights.

[Nate1979]

Personally in the past I have not worried about going a few hundred pounds over my previous 1/2ton payload as long as I was within the tire and all axle ratings. For such a small difference (300lb vs 600lb) I would have done it in my personal case but that is up to you. Especially when you are well below the GCWR of the truck-trailer combo. Just remember that should be actual hitch weights, not imaginary low numbers in the brochure.

[brioux1]

Ok, first I would like to quickly thank all the members on this forum for the great advice.
I loaded my Ram 1500 with the family, a bike, a small geny and tool box. Took it to a cat scale and weighed it. came in at 6,450 lbs. My GVWR is 6,800 lbs. Leaves me with 350lbs. Minus another 70lbs for the WD hitch and I'm at 280lbs. If I went with a trailer with a hitch weight of 600lbs I would be over roughly 300lbs. My question is is this a lot? would it have huge repercussion? or could I squeak by?
Thanks

[bikendan]

brioux1 wrote:
The sticker on the door that i mentioned was confusing me. A couple of people have mentioned to me that this rating (1070lbs) refers to the cab only? do you think this is true?

those people don't know what they're talking about.
that payload rating is for passengers and cargo, including the driver.

with that low of a payload capacity, you need to look at a smaller trailer.
and don't fall for the airbags solution for payload.
air bags don't increase the truck's payload capacity. all they do is level the truck.

unfortunately, the Ram 1/2 ton is well known for poor payload capacities.

[IdaD]

I'd agree with the above - that's a bit too much trailer for that truck. Frankly at 32' and 8200 lbs gross weight I'd be hesitant to pull it with any half ton, let alone a lower rated one.

But that being said you can do if you're comfortable being over your paper ratings and aren't planning on towing long distances. You might need to invest in some Timbrens or bags, and probably some higher rated LT tires would be a good idea as well. Ultimately it's up to you do decide what you're comfortable with.

An alternative option is to spend some money upgrading the truck and then make up for it by starting out with a used trailer. Something to consider, anyway.

[camp-n-family]

The stickered weight of 1070lbs is your trucks actual payload rating. That is the amount of weight you can add to the truck before exceeding your GVWR. The truck doesn't care where the weight is added, in the cab, in the bed, or hanging off the back as tongue weight. It all counts against payload. Mind you, if you did add it all in one place, say all 1070lbs in the bed, you would likely exceed other ratings like rear axle and tires too.

The Jay Flight will put you over some ratings. Up to you to decide what you're comfortable with. At 6100lbs dry it will probably be closer to 6400lbs with options added (batteries, propane etc). You'll probably be closer to 7200lbs loaded up which would put you in the 900lbs tongue and hitch weight range. Add a couple of passengers and you will be over your payload rating. Will it kill the truck and be dangerous? Not necessarily. If you stay under the axle and tire ratings it'll probably be fine but you'll always be pushing the limits and having to watch what you pack. Not really a comfortable feeling when you're trying to get away to relax.

[brioux1]

Wow, thanks for all the great advice. I will defiantly look into these suggestions. The sticker on the door that i mentioned was confusing me. A couple of people have mentioned to me that this rating (1070lbs) refers to the cab only? do you think this is true? We are looking seriously at a Jayco Jay Flight 27BHS Dry weight of 6,105lbs.
Do you think ill have a problem towing with my Ram 1500?
Thanks