Here are some info to arm you for your discussion with the dealer tech
Most of the IBC's I've checked out uses MC (master cylinder, brake) PSI
It senses pressure as your foot moved the brake pedal...that is connected
to the MC piston rod that pokes through the firewall and into the
passenger compartment
There is normally about 1/8" travel of the foot/brake pedal BEFORE it
starts to move the MC piston
MC PSI sensed will vary the signal power sent to the trailer brakes via
the IBC
At startup, all systems should send a: "I'm here and okay" to the master
computer. That will cycle every so often and dependent on the software
If your IBC doesn't say that...the master computer will not know it is
there...therefore nothing sent to the trailer brakes...but you say the
manual lever works...so it is 'in the system' in some fashion. That is
where the tech must start from
Since your TV has all of those subsystems...they all must plug'n-play
with each other. That is also where the tech must confirm
Good luck !
PS...if they can't dial it in...you can have them remove it and replace
with a P2 or P3 and is my choice on that matter
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...