blt2ski wrote:
Reading Les's article. He mentions using marine wire vs auto wire. This is something I might recommend too. Marine wire vs auto, both are copper. BUT< the marine wire is tinned over copper. So it will not degrade as fast etc, as non tin coated wire.
Another to note, some manufactures sell tin coated marine wire, that is the same diam as non coated, along with the same gauge rating/sizing. One that I know of, uses a slightly larger diam for a given gauge, that way you get the same amount of copper as a non coated! So you have the same amount of amps etc that can get thru the wire. assuming non is 14 gauge, the tin coated should be approx a 12 gauge actual size as compared to a 14 non. This will cost you more per foot. At the end of the day, this extra cost could be worth it.
As far as soldering vs crimping........I've personally seen some say soldering is better, other crimping. If you do not crimp correctly, you have an issue with no or a lower contact connection, so loss of conductivity, amps etc. Then again, if one does not know how to solder, like myself......crimping is probably a better/best option. Along with if you need a water tight fitting, put a heated shrink wrap equal over the crimp fitting, and you have a water tight fit. Assuming you do this correctly too! LOL, assuming we are ALL human here, and as Ben says, Mr Murphy can show up at any time or place or you name it.....shift happens!
At the end of the day tho, we all want brakes that will work on our trailers. No matter what they are for, be it an RV, Boat, Equipment, job shack trailer, office....... Along with having them meet the on the road field testing LEO's can put you through if they feel you might have a non working brake system. Their are a few more items than just the one I mentioned, and jimlim also mentioned. Like your battery for the brakes if you have a complete disconnect....if tested, needs at least 11.6-11.8V. So if you use a house battery, were using it dry the night before, and take off, get pulled over really quick, you battery bank may not be charged enough for the field test with a volt meter.....something to think about if you do this.
marty
I agree on the marine wire.
some of the marine wire is made from smaller gauge strands which makes it more flexible, and easier to work with.
On the soldering vs. crimp. either if done correctly makes a reliable connection. But to solder well takes experience and the joint much be mechanically interconnected then soldered. Don't rely on solder for the mechanical joint. And to much solder can end up causing a failure at the end of the solder joint. it makes a stress point during flex. For crimp, improper crimping can also yield a poor joint.
At one time the company I worked at, doing mil spec products did extensive research on crimp vs. solder and on wire interconnect went with crimp. a crimp done correctly is a gas tight seal and can be done consistently with proper tools and less training than soldered connection. And they didn't suffer from flex failures at the joint interconnect. Field failure rate of crimped joints was virtually zero and better than field failure rate of previously similar connections soldered.
But the $5.00 crimper found at big box stores isn't a good crimper.
If you are truely skilled at soldering and don't have a quality crimper, solder. Otherwise IMHO invest in some good crimp tools with interchangeable jaws for various connectors and crimp.
and heat shrink used properly, especially the adhesive filled shrink is a good addition.
