When Andersen Levelers aren't enough....

[Flapper]

We stayed in one CG, where I was full up on the very end of the Andersens, and just got it side-to-side level. But it got me thinking whether I need to bring something for "just in case" if we get a site that is even worse. We do have two full sets of the Camco "Lego" blocks, but in this instance, if I had used them instead, I would have used them all up, and had none left for the stabilizing jacks.


Sort of related - in another CG, we ended up with the WD bars of my ProPride hitch on the ground to get the trailer front-to-back level. Again, if it had been worse, I would have had to break out the lego's for both sides of the trailer, to get it up enough. How many "inches of stuff" (legos, wood, etc.) do most people bring for these tasks?

[Ralph_Cramden]

SoundGuy wrote:

WTP-GC wrote:
I take it that you have first-hand experience with Andersen leveler slippage...??

Yep, saw it with my own eyes :E ... so too has Andersen - the reason they offer a Rubber Slip Pad for use under their Rapid Jack and Leveler. :W

I've seen it too......very intimately as it shot across about 1/2" from my ear at almost supersonic speed, and landed 20' behind me lol.

[SoundGuy]

WTP-GC wrote:
I take it that you have first-hand experience with Andersen leveler slippage...??

Yep, saw it with my own eyes :E ... so too has Andersen - the reason they offer a Rubber Slip Pad for use under their Rapid Jack and Leveler. :W

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
I don't use Andersens for leveling as there's insufficient space to fit the leveler between the two adjacent low side tires.

Ralph Cramden wrote:
Have a circular saw?

Cut Me

Insufficient with 14" tires on a 29" axle spread ... Andersen conveniently neglects to mention this. :R

[Grit_dog]

Scrap lumber. If ya don't need it for leveling, it makes good kindling wood.

[WTP-GC]

SoundGuy wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:
Being made of hard plastic though the leveler can slip on any slick surface so it surprises me that you'd be able to successfully keep them in place sitting atop 2" x 8" wood.

WTP-GC wrote:
Never had slippage issues, as land where we camp doesn't typically spontaneously tilt to one side or another while we're there.

Seriously though, short of not making full surface contact with the leveler, I can't imagine a scenario that would allow it to slip unless the ground just failed underneath it.

Stack one length of 2x wood atop another, pull the trailer up on to the stack, and chances are the top piece is going to slip relative to the piece it's sitting on, particularly if they're wet. :M That's why plastic leveling blocks are designed to interlock - so one can't slip out of position relative to the other. Andersen levelers are made of hard plastic and unless a rubber or abrasive pad is used there's always the potential for the leveler's hard plastic surface to slip when it's sitting on another hard, flat surface such as tarmac. As I recall even Andersen recognizes this fact and does offer a slip pad that can be used to prevent this. Campsites may not "tilt spontaneously" but they sure do slope, sometimes considerably, so I always want my trailer firmly secured so it absolutely can't slip out of position - Andersens, as designed, don't always provide that assurance but a rubber base as I suggested earlier would go a long way to preventing any slippage, as well as providing a bit more lift the OP is seeking.

Good thing we have the internet...to help us worry about things that we ought not be worried about.
I take it that you have first-hand experience with Andersen leveler slippage...??

[Ralph_Cramden]

SoundGuy wrote:


I don't use Andersens for leveling as there's insufficient space to fit the leveler between the two adjacent low side tires.

Have a circular saw?

Cut Me

Personally I gave my Andersons to a camping neighbor. That was right after the wife backed the trailer up on them on wet grass, and one came shooting out like a rocket, missing my noggin by about half an inch. I felt the wind from that one.

mattmountz94 wrote:
I carry andersons and also about 4' stack of 2x12s. This weekend site was level side to side but I needed about 18" under either front landing gear.

When people talk about having a level site I know they are not in PA. I have yet to find one.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
Being made of hard plastic though the leveler can slip on any slick surface so it surprises me that you'd be able to successfully keep them in place sitting atop 2" x 8" wood.

WTP-GC wrote:
Never had slippage issues, as land where we camp doesn't typically spontaneously tilt to one side or another while we're there.

Seriously though, short of not making full surface contact with the leveler, I can't imagine a scenario that would allow it to slip unless the ground just failed underneath it.

Stack one length of 2x wood atop another, pull the trailer up on to the stack, and chances are the top piece is going to slip relative to the piece it's sitting on, particularly if they're wet. :M That's why plastic leveling blocks are designed to interlock - so one can't slip out of position relative to the other. Andersen levelers are made of hard plastic and unless a rubber or abrasive pad is used there's always the potential for the leveler's hard plastic surface to slip when it's sitting on another hard, flat surface such as tarmac. As I recall even Andersen recognizes this fact and does offer a slip pad that can be used to prevent this. Campsites may not "tilt spontaneously" but they sure do slope, sometimes considerably, so I always want my trailer firmly secured so it absolutely can't slip out of position - Andersens, as designed, don't always provide that assurance but a rubber base as I suggested earlier would go a long way to preventing any slippage, as well as providing a bit more lift the OP is seeking.

[WTP-GC]

SoundGuy wrote:
Being made of hard plastic though the leveler can slip on any slick surface so it surprises me that you'd be able to successfully keep them in place sitting atop 2" x 8" wood.

Never had slippage issues, as land where we camp doesn't typically spontaneously tilt to one side or another while we're there.

Seriously though, short of not making full surface contact with the leveler, I can't imagine a scenario that would allow it to slip unless the ground just failed underneath it.

[SoundGuy]

WTP-GC wrote:
The Andersen levelers are a good product that just simply works.

The only problem I have is that they can (and will) sink into softer dirt when loaded. As a result, I carry 2x8's and use them under the leveler's when needed.

The Andersen levelers sink into soft surfaces because at just 6" wide they present a relatively small foot print, a situation that can be avoided by sitting each on some sort of base plate with a larger footprint that spreads the weight bearing down on them. Being made of hard plastic though the leveler can slip on any slick surface so it surprises me that you'd be able to successfully keep them in place sitting atop 2" x 8" wood. JMO, but I'd instead carry a set of rubber stair treads made from recycled tires and stack them as necessary to gain desired additional lift and avoid any potential for the levelers to slip as the trailer's low side tires are pulled up on to them. Using a base like this will also avoid the levelers sitting on an uneven ground surface, likely the cause of reported breakage.

[WTP-GC]

The Andersen levelers are a good product that just simply works. I know there are some people that have broken multiple levelers and thus consider them to be junk. But I don't understand how that happens. The only problem I have is that they can (and will) sink into softer dirt when loaded. As a result, I carry 2x8's and use them under the leveler's when needed. Sometimes, if setting up for more than 3-4 days, I'll use the 2x8's even if not needed, in order to mitigate settling. And if the ground is soft, the boards help to create a hard surface which helps against rig movement/shaking.

[BCSnob]

Three 2"x12"x4' boards
Stack of 2"x12"x18"
One 6"x6"x18" block
One 4"x4"x18"
One 18" long 5"-6" fence post that has a flat face

All boards were acquired during projects on the farm.
All used periodically since we only "camp" in pastures at dog events.

[LarryJM]

coolmom42 wrote:

GordonThree wrote:
Dig a modest hole for the high wheels

That doesn't work so well on a paved site....

I would rather pack plastic blocks than chunks of wood, for a "just-in-case" situation.

If a CG has a paved site that is that unlevel side to side I think I would be looking for another CG. If they can't at least get something paved reasonably level I'm not sure I would trust their attention to detail when it comes to electrical as an example.

Larry

[tinner12002]

Redwoodcamper wrote:
I always have an axe and firewood. Nothing else needed.

Well if I was going to have to have those then I'd have to have beer too! Can't chop wood without beer!!

[tinner12002]

I carry 3-2x12s 7' long with me for side to side leveling, haven't used more than 2 so far but also have 4 short 4x6s for under the jacks as well as a couple stacks of the sq lego stackers. I also use a couple double stacked, screwed together 2x10s for my front leg pads, about 18" x 18".