winterizing issue with voltage 3305

I had the same difficulty. Also had trouble getting the pump to work after draining and refilling the water tank. The workaround was to keep a syrup container with small spout handy and use it to fill the tube for sucking antifreeze from a jug with water.

Finally, I went to an RV store and asked a clerk what was wrong, showing a photo of the ID plate on the pump. He sold me a rubber membrane replacement for the pump. Easy replacement job. No more trouble.

aftermath wrote:
I am sure you will be fine this winter. I agree that you need to get this sorted out by this time next year.
I am a poor communicator and would like to try to make my last point again. When you hook up a hose to the outside of your trailer you have to "undo" a cap to your city water hookup. When you are done, you turn off the city water, disconnect the hose and then Close the access to the city water hookup. Mine has a backflow valve and is closed off by a screw in cap. If I didn't screw the cap back on my pump would suck air through the valve.

So, when you said that city water was turned off, that is not what I was talking about. Yes, turn off the water, disconnect the hose and then close the city water input valve by replacing the cap. Did you do this?

yes

Ok, one more time with priming the pump. When you fill pink stuff suction hose with funnel just bump pump switch a few times and keep refillng hose until pink stuff is all the way to pump and hose is full, then put suction hose into pink stuff jug and it should pick up. I had to do this with one of my campers every fall for 12 years.

I am sure you will be fine this winter. I agree that you need to get this sorted out by this time next year.
I am a poor communicator and would like to try to make my last point again. When you hook up a hose to the outside of your trailer you have to "undo" a cap to your city water hookup. When you are done, you turn off the city water, disconnect the hose and then Close the access to the city water hookup. Mine has a backflow valve and is closed off by a screw in cap. If I didn't screw the cap back on my pump would suck air through the valve.

So, when you said that city water was turned off, that is not what I was talking about. Yes, turn off the water, disconnect the hose and then close the city water input valve by replacing the cap. Did you do this?

Thanks.
City water was off and unit is in storage facility now. I hope it will be fine and expect so, but need to get this sorted out. We had a record dump of snow here 2 days ago in Calagry Alberta!!!
Winter tires going on both vehicles soon!!!

OK, one more idea. Did you have the city water connection closed? I was told some time ago that if you leave the city water connection open the pump can draw air in through this opening causing issues with the function of the water pump.

I added a water heater to an old tent trailer years ago. I had no way to drain the system so I ended up adding a gallon of pink to my FW tank and pumping it through the system. It worked well but I do have a couple of suggestions. Avoid getting the pink into the HW tank. I did this once by mistake and it took forever to flush the taste out of the lines. I also would drain all the pink out of the FW tank before storing. You can collect this for future use.
Sorry you can't use your built in system. I would contact the manufacturer and/or a dealer and try to figure this out. It would sure make things easier for you. Good luck.

aftermath wrote:
Right where the hose that goes into your gallon of pink is connected to the water line you should have a valve of some sort to turn. Some have asked if you have done this but you have not responded. The winterizing attachment has a valve that shuts out the tube and opens the pipe to your fresh water tank. Turn on the pump and it draws from the FW tank. Switch the valve and when you turn on the pump it will draw from the gallon jug of pink.
You shouldn't have to prime the pump if it is drawing fresh water before.
Nothing wrong with using air. I have done just that for 9 years without mishap.

I have two valve style levers and one is for bypass and the other says winterize. I moved them both into the proper position when I started.
Tried again yesterday and had one of my sons holding the hose and tried gravity feed and got the pump to pull what antifreeze was in the line. It would not pull from the jug!

Since I blew out with air and ran pump a lot I hope all is good as only other way is to dump 3 gallons into fresh and let pump pull from there.

As far as the pump itself goes, I asked the Airstream tech how I could protect it if I can't get pink stuff to run through. He told me to run it dry. Then blow out the lines again. So, drain everything and run air through all the lines, faucets and valves. Disconnect the air and run the pump for a minute or so. Reconnect the air and blow the lines again. No water in the pump, no water in the lines. Works pretty good. Winters up here get down into the single digits regularly. No issues for me with this technique.
That said, I still believe the pink stuff is a better way to go. Less to be worried about.

Right where the hose that goes into your gallon of pink is connected to the water line you should have a valve of some sort to turn. Some have asked if you have done this but you have not responded. The winterizing attachment has a valve that shuts out the tube and opens the pipe to your fresh water tank. Turn on the pump and it draws from the FW tank. Switch the valve and when you turn on the pump it will draw from the gallon jug of pink.
You shouldn't have to prime the pump if it is drawing fresh water before.
Nothing wrong with using air. I have done just that for 9 years without mishap.

I have to use a funnel held up higher than the pump to get antifreeze in the system- works well that way but need helper.