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12v vs 110v on TC

cptqueeg
Explorer II
Explorer II
My questions relate to 12v vs 110v and the need for an inverter and the rest of the gear listed below. I'm planning on a TC which will be have a dedicated location for a generator. I will need the generator to recharge the batteries in my bass boat via a 110v 3-bank charger which pulls about 2 Ah peak. These are (3) 12 v wet cells at the moment. The generator will also be used to run an AC for the truck camper. I "think" my summer fishing trips will require AC, but most other trips will not. The other substantial electrical needs will be the frig/freezer. So far looking at 12v/110v fridges, perhaps a 3 way could be a way to keep the electrical needs lower?

I don't plan on needing tv's, microwave, electric coffee pots, or hair dryers.


This is what we've been planning so far:


Battle Born Energy Van 200Ah Kit

2 โ€“ Battle Born 100AH 12V Deep Cycle Batteries:

1 โ€“ Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor:

1 โ€“ Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger 2000W 12V:

1 โ€“ Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Charge Controller:

1 โ€“ Victron Digital Multi-Control:

1 โ€“ Victron Orion-TR Smart 12/12V-30A Isolated Charger:

1 โ€“ RJ45 1.8m cable


Thanks for your comments.
2024 Chev 3500 CCLB Diesel
Four Wheel Camper Granby Shell
7 REPLIES 7

Sagebrush
Explorer
Explorer
Might save money and drop the inverter, just get a cheap/small portable unit? I've been thinking about a portable solar suit case system, I like to camp in the shade.

Get a very quiet generator or two, like a couple Honda 2000's. One is good for charging batteries, run two for A/C. I also have a Honda 3000 watt generator but its really too heavy unless it stays mounted all the time, but I like it better than my Generac 40G on my little toy hauler trailer by far. Much less noise with my portables. Even a Harbor Freight quite gen will work and they are similar to the little Hondas.

I rather mount a couple 2000's or a lager single on the front bumper than use a noisy built in on a TC. The noise bugs me from the 3600 rpm models from Generac and Onan.

mr_andyj
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, the generator just for running the AC or charging your boat.
You can put solar on and run everything else as long as you have some sun. 200 watts min, but I would go with 300 if there is room. Run panels in series.

For fridge a DC compressor Danfoss unit is my fav. The solar will run it unless you use a lot of other DC things that draw a lot of power too and then you might run batteries low by morning. So, if you watch hours of movies and need a lot of light at night consider more batteries. I would thingk 3 would be plenty.

A 3-way propane is fine, but needs to remain within 3 degrees of level or it will be ruined. Propane will last a long time for a fridge and you prob have propane for stove anyway. If you already have this then just stick with it.

My vote is for a DC fridge, but you will have to make a chest fridge fit or get an upright DC compressor fridge or convert a propane fridge.

So, why do you need an inverter? Just to charge the laptop? Run everything off of DC power that you can. Inverters use power just being on, and are not 100% efficient when converting it.

For battery charging, mostly you will be just for the boat. Do you need sophisticated charging devices or will a cheapo battery charger work to top off the boat?
If you go solar then hopefully you never need to charge your TC batteries as the sun will do that, and driving will bring in the alternator to charge also.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
I'd not buy battleborn. They are too pricey and the level of hype is high.

I see that Victron now sells a lead carbon battery. Have a look at what they say about them vs Li.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
KD4UPL,

It is quite possible to run the roof air. But the real question is "how long". I'm planning on a 7.2 (usable) kwh bank--and that would give me about 3 hours of cooling. Not terribly useful.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

KD4UPL
Explorer
Explorer
It's a good list of equipment and will likely work well for what it is.
I would absolutely have a 3 way refrigerator and run it on propane when dry camping. Without getting into all the math a 20lb propane tank will run a refrigerator for weeks, maybe months, before needing refilling.
You will not be able to run your AC on solar and battery power no matter how hard you try; particularly not with the space and weight restraints of a TC. Sure, with a big enough battery and inverter you can start and run the compressor for a few house but not for any meaningful length of time like overnight.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
The option of using propane for the fridge is one Iโ€™d like to keep in any new RV I buy.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
An adequate solar system would work for all your needs except A/C. Much easier way to go than running the generator every day.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad