15K AC on a 20 amp plug?

Hopefully this will be a handy tip:

I tape a bungee cord 6" away from the cord plug. With more bungees as necessary I wrap around the pedestal then hook the taped bungee to the ring sround the pedestal. By supporting the plug and wire upright, it makes for a better contact that is less likely to sag and overheat.

2oldman wrote:

shutdown wrote:
but other than that is there any issues running a 17amp rated AC from a 20 amp breaker?

Maybe. Some airs have such a large startup surge the circuit can't handle it.

All RV cooling units operate on 20 amp. Look at the breaker feeding the circuit.

OP, make sure you use a 12 gauge cord..

Take a look at the breaker that feeds that A/C.. Yup. 20 amp.

ONE CAUTION: Depending on two things
1: Size of converter and battery bank
2: State of charge of batteries.

The converter can easily suck 10 (or more) amps (mine peaks at about 10).

So you may need to plug in for an hour or two before you fire up the A/C.

shutdown wrote:
but other than that is there any issues running a 17amp rated AC from a 20 amp breaker?

To clarify: IF your cord is of sufficient size (as already mentioned), is not too long, and IF the CG voltage is adequate to start the air.

It's my experience that when everyone is running air it's not uncommon for voltage to sag, thereby increasing the amperage draw.

Most 15k AC units, the running amps (Hi Cool) will be no more than 15 amps at 95 degrees ambient. For every 10 degrees cooler than 95 the amp draw will be 1 amp LESS. I know of NO 15k that has a 17 amp run amp draw. The 20 amp breaker is the standard breaker for all RV AC units. The "surge" is taken into account for compressor start up. The Comp Start capacitor is there for that initial amp surge and 20 amp breaker is more than adequate. Doug

shutdown wrote:
but other than that is there any issues running a 17amp rated AC from a 20 amp breaker?

Maybe. Some airs have such a large startup surge the circuit can't handle it.

Just so long as you are in a campground with good voltage. And you use an adequate extension cord. Power in one of our local state parks is marginal, and we have a hard time running our 15K A/C plus converter in our 30A coach.

Be sure you use a good quality HD extension cord. Don't think the "RED" WALMART extension cords will hold up for very long... AT least a 12-gauge Cord but would be better if it was a 10-ga (10-3) cord.

Then it will run cool when you run it at max for a long time period.

We run things off the 20-AMP Service alot when at electric camp grounds. I run my electric heaters off the 20-amp service when I can. Same camp ground doesn't like you to do this...

Roy Ken

Not intended for the OP but for general information:

A 120 volt, 20-amp twist lock connection is infinitely less problematic than a standard 20-amp receptacle. Any receptacle operate at near rated capacity should be disassembled and thoroughly inspected before loading it. No sense destroying a new plug with a bad receptacle. I's where the feeder wire connect to the receptacle, where you cannot see them, that causes most of the meltdowns.

Thats what i was thinking and hoping to hear. oddly enough i am getting a 15 for less than what i can find a 13.5 for.