2 + 1 battery charging???

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
¿Why not just charge AGM at 14.4 volts until amperage drops to point five percent of amp hour capacity and call it a day? Use manual control to figure out rhe best way to synthesize it in automatic mode.

You can do just that with the Bogart system. No need "synthesize" it.

Rbertalotto wrote:

There are a couple of pages of various batteries listed by make and model numbers with the appropriate specs for each.

Controller should be set according to YOUR BATTERY SPECS. What it says on your particular battery. Not to what it says on the list that came with controller. The list "might" have the same numbers for your battery, but this is a 2nd hand info. Battery manual is the source.

PWM, 12v charging, 12v panels in parallel.
PWM, 24v charging, 12v panels in series.

There are a couple of pages of various batteries listed by make and model numbers with the appropriate specs for each.

yes, the abs V, float V and IUI is based on battery brand/type and other stuff is based on capacity/type. No need to try and find/program battery charging specs for listed batteries.

You've bought into bogart's engineering, others buy into their own or experiment or other's or even WFCO, go for it.

TABLE 4: Programmed values for each P22 charging profile number. See *NOTE below
All values are normalized to a “capacity” of 220Ahr. After placing a profile in P22, then change the P3
setting to your value unless your system has capacity=220 Amp hr.
Battery type
( with total system volts not battery volts)
Profilenumber P22 P1 AbsorbV P2AmpssetptP3capacityAhr P14Timehr P15highVP16floatVP20OverchargeP21Finihamps
"Generic" wet cell (12V) 1 14.4V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.7 13.2 10% 3.0%
"Generic" wet cell (24V) 2 28.8 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 31.4 26.4 10% 3.0%
Trojan wet cell (12V) 3 14.4V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 16.2V 13.4 10% 3.0%
Trojan wet cell(24V) 4 28.8V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 32.4V 26.8 10% 3.0%
Crown wet cell(12V) 5 14.5V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.9 13.5 10% 3.5%
Crown wet cell(24V) 6 29.0 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 31.8 27.0 10% 3.5%
US Battery(12V) 7 14.8V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.5 13.0 15% 3.5%
US Battery(24V) 8 29.6 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 31.0 26.0 15% 3.5%
Concorde AGM(12V) 9 14.3 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 16.5 13.3 7% 2.0%
Concorde AGM(24V) 10 28.6 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 33.0 26.6 7% 2.0%
Deka monobloc(12V) 8A, 8G 11 14.2 V 2.0% 220AH 8.0h 14.2 13.5 20% 5.0%
Deka monobloc (24V) 8A, 8G 12 28.4 V 2.0% 220AH 8.0h 28.4 27.0 20% 5.0%
Interstate(12V) wet cell 13 14.5 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.3 13.4 15% 4.0%
Interstate(24V) wet cell 14 29.0 V 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 30.6 26.8 15% 4.0%
GNB-Absolyte(12V) VRLA 15 14.3 V 1.0% 220AH 8.0h 14.3 13.5 7% 2.0%
GNB-Absolyte(24V) VRLA 16 28.6 V 1.0% 220AH 8.0h 28.6 27.0 7% 2.0%
Generic-Wet Cell-no hi volt finish 17 14.7 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.0 13.2 12% 0FF
Generic-AGM-no hi volt finish 18 14.3 2.0% 220AH 4.0h 15.0 13.3 7% 0FF

Hopefully it takes into account some other factors, like battery specs (exactly specs, not "battery type"), and charging current.

There are a couple of pages of various batteries listed by make and model numbers with the appropriate specs for each.

Now another question which I'll post to the general forum....

I have (2) 140w 12V panels. The solar controller can operate on 12V or 24V input. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to wiring the panels in series for 24V rather than parallel for 12V?

¿Why not just charge AGM at 14.4 volts until amperage drops to point five percent of amp hour capacity and call it a day? Use manual control to figure out rhe best way to synthesize it in automatic mode.

Rbertalotto wrote:

My controller doesn't care what type of battery. wrote:

Then how does it know when the battery is at 100% charge? Or does it not give you that information?

Here we go again.

Controller doesn't know when the battery is 100% full. AH counting is not an accurate method.

The only true measure is SG. But with AGM you're out of luck, naturally.

Another reliable indicator (IMO) is when the charging current drops - in theory, at least - to zero. In reality there is always self-discharge current (very low in case of AGM), plus some parasitic current. So it's good enough when charging current drops to that value, in absence of loads. Let's say, you lights are off 'cause it's daylight and fridge is not cycling right now (or you know the fridge current because you know it).

This is what "fully charged" is about - the battery can't accept more charge. Then controller will stop charging it. It can't charge it when battery doesn't t accept charge.

You may or may not get to this point when camping. What is important, is not to fry the battery prematurely by setting Abs too high, or keeping it in Abs for too long, or setting Float too high. And not to undercharge it either, by doing all the opposite things.

BFL13 with his semi-automatic controller (one of them, as I recall) is doing this manually, according to battery specs, loads and what he has learned after having his battery for a while and checking SG.
My controller is doing it automatically by keeping settings where they should be, according to battery specs, loads and charging current (and few other things, but let's keep it simple for now).
Your controller (or, rather, your Trimetric monitor that controls the controller) is doing this by counting AH and adjusting settings based on this count, as I understand. Hopefully it takes into account some other factors, like battery specs (exactly specs, not "battery type"), and charging current.

You'll figure out, no worries.

Try the Xantrex Echo Charge, it should fill the bill...

http://xantrex.com/product_search.aspx?IndexCatalogue=Products&SearchQuery=Echo+charge

3 tons

Thanks Grizzzman! I'll check into that...

Rbertalotto wrote:
I forgot about the Bogart needing to know what type and capacity of battery....otherwise will not work properly and the monitor panel will give completely false readings. Thanks for reminding me.

"For Sale...Nearly New 12V Flooded battery!"

I just bought a 2016 trailer. It came with one battery. It has been removed and two 6 volt batteries have been installed. There older and have been mistreated. Im going to install the 12 volt battery as a back up. I will use a "Trik-L-start"(google it) It will isolate the banks and charge the 12 volt any time the other bank is being charged. Then the 12 volt bank will charge 3 cell phones a tablet and the bose portable speaker it will also run a small inverter for when the tv is mounted outside. If you set up the Trik-L-Start as a "Load" The Bogart system will work just fine. I have this setup in my motorhome to charge the start battery and it works great. (I have been charging the phones etc. With the start battery and it has worked well. Dont forget to set the second voltage to the 12 volt battery so you can keep an eye on its voltage.

My controller doesn't care what type of battery. wrote:

Then how does it know when the battery is at 100% charge? Or does it not give you that information?