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grizlyadams's avatar
grizlyadams
Explorer
Jun 29, 2019

2003 Damon Challenger 348 - power problem

Hi,

I have the above coach and the fridge Cooler Unit went - so in the process of removing the fridge to replace the cooler I unfortunately shorted the 12v feed to the back of the fridge as i was about to insulate it. No problem, I thought, the fuse will have blown.

This is the 12v that also feeds the slid out control panel, the furnace and the gas water heater. I went to the DC distribution/fuse panel, located in the bedroom at the rear left, just above the belly locker where the shore power comes in. There is conveniently a fuse labelled "furnace/w.heater/refer"

But the fuse is fine, I've removed it, tested it with a meter, there is power to the power side of the fuse and when the fuse is in place, there is power to the safe side of the fuse.

are there other fuses that might have gone?

the panel where the furnace and water heater controls are located (just left of the bathroom door) also has the slide isolation (on/off) key and the front slide in/out switch. The rear slide switch is in the bedroom. Both slides do not work now and as the furnace doesn't work, neither does my aircon.

any ideas?

Thanks in advance
  • CA_Traveler's avatar
    CA_Traveler
    Explorer III
    Jun 29, 2019
    You may have blown a different and larger fuse. Check all fuses including larger ones located in a different location. Fuse labeling especially in RVs may have little bearing on reality.

    Another option is to use a wire tracer and you have a number of locations w/o power to start from. Or maybe you can locate a wiring diagram that MIGHT help.
  • grizlyadams's avatar
    grizlyadams
    Explorer
    Jun 29, 2019
    CA Traveler wrote:
    You may have blown a different and larger fuse. Check all fuses including larger ones located in a different location. Fuse labeling especially in RVs may have little bearing on reality.

    Another option is to use a wire tracer and you have a number of locations w/o power to start from. Or maybe you can locate a wiring diagram that MIGHT help.


    Í've checked every fuse and reset every breaker I can find. There has to be one somewhere that I don't know about. The owner's manual is about as much use as a chocolate teapot and is so generic as to be useless.

    I'd love to have a wiring diagram but google hasnt helped me.'
  • Hurricaner's avatar
    Hurricaner
    Explorer
    Jun 29, 2019
    Damon never had wiring diagrams other than the generic ones in the manual. Check the fuses under the hood (bonnet) as I recall there are several on the battery disconnect panel on the right side.
    Sam
  • grizlyadams's avatar
    grizlyadams
    Explorer
    Jul 01, 2019
    Hurricaner wrote:
    Damon never had wiring diagrams other than the generic ones in the manual. Check the fuses under the hood (bonnet) as I recall there are several on the battery disconnect panel on the right side.
    Sam


    My manual doesn't have any wiring diagram unfortunately - it is very much a "take it to a specialist" manual with the most basic troubleshooting advice.

    I have checked the fuses I can find under the hood - 37 of them including the Ford chassis fuses. Sadly, all are good.

    -Griz
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Jul 01, 2019
    You think they labeled everythign right.... Wow.
    You need... a 12 volt test light (Any auto supply store/dept) this is a device shaped like an ice pick clear or translucent plastc handle with a light bulg inside and a lead with a clip.

    Now ground the clip (Any handy ground) you may alo need a long oil of "Extension" wire to reach a good ground point.

    Touch the window on both ends of each fuse. No need to pull the fuse. just touch touch

    Bright-Brght = Good
    Bright-dark or Dark-bright = Blown
    Dark-Dark = no test
  • grizlyadams's avatar
    grizlyadams
    Explorer
    Jul 02, 2019
    wa8yxm wrote:
    You think they labeled everythign right.... Wow.
    You need... a 12 volt test light (Any auto supply store/dept) this is a device shaped like an ice pick clear or translucent plastc handle with a light bulg inside and a lead with a clip.

    Now ground the clip (Any handy ground) you may alo need a long oil of "Extension" wire to reach a good ground point.

    Touch the window on both ends of each fuse. No need to pull the fuse. just touch touch

    Bright-Brght = Good
    Bright-dark or Dark-bright = Blown
    Dark-Dark = no test


    yeah - more fool me for believing the labelling :) (although they do actually relate to what they say on the panel as the items they relate to stop working when I pull the fuses)

    as to testing the fuses - I've done that visually and with a multimeter, both continuity and voltage tests, ALL the fuses I can find (37 under the hood and 15 or so in the DC control panel in the bedroom) are good - there is +13-14v on the safe/appliance side of all the fuses.

    It's the fuse/breaker I can't find that that is the issue.

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