2004 Jayco new owner hot water heater issue help!!

[Cheeva316]

My father just moved onto our property and we just bought him this 261 Jayco 5th wheel.

It has gas/electric water heater.

We filled the tanks, fired up the gas option water heater, the gas line fired up no problem, I went inside and felt the holding tank to get very got. When I turn the facet on or shower the water only got a little warm then back to cold. I went back to the holding tank and it still felt hot to the touch.

I figured that maybe there is a water flow issue or trick to get the 6 gallon water holding tank flowing through the plumbing.

I have read every manual possible and it only explains how to get yhe water heater going but nothing else.

I know in a house it's all self explanatory that you demand hot water and you get it.

I don't turn on the electric function of the water heater cause it trips the 30amp breaker or the a/c breaker.

I checked to make sure all the valves are open for flowing water.

Again when holding tank is hot to the touch I turn the hot water on and it's maybe very warm for maybe 30 seconds.
My father can't even take a shower in the rv and he's disabled and it's a mission getting him into my house to take one.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

[Cheeva316]

All good, thank you everyone for your help.
Much appreciated!!

[j-d]

I'm glad to hear ALL valves were open! If the valves were still in "winterize" mode, you'd be trying to heat water that wasn't there. An empty water heater tank. That will burn out an electric element, and depending on make/model, operate the Energy Cut Off (ECO) device. The ECO will shut off the LP Gas if that's in use, or open the electric element circuit if it's in the electric mode. Some ECO's can be re-set. BUT!!! Other ECO's are "One Time" meaning it has to be replaced for the heater to operate again. No cool-down re-set or manual re-set.

We had an Atwood Gas-Only water heater where he One Time ECO was part of the LPG Valve/Thermostat assembly. Part is around $100 and not all that easy to replace.

So... If you ever have to Winterize, You'll set the valves accordingly then remove the Drain Plug (Atwood) or Anode Rod (Suburban) to drain the tank so freezing won't burst it. Have a Spring Check List so you get the heater FULL of water again before powering it up.

[Cheeva316]

I'm waiting for the water heater to heat up the tank, it's been shut off for a few days. Will check back on results soon. Thank you for your replies.

[mike-s]

Cheeva316 wrote:
Yes all those are open, pointing in the direction of the pipe.

That's the problem. To use the heater, the valves going in/out of the heater should be open. The valve going between hot and cold lines (the bypass) must be closed.

[darsben1]

Cheeva316 wrote:
Yes all those are open, pointing in the direction of the pipe.

If three valve one should be across not in direction of pipe

[downtheroad]

Disregard the solar info.

[Cheeva316]

Yes all those are open, pointing in the direction of the pipe.

[RoyF]

The heater bypass involves three valves: cold water into the heater; hot water from the heater; a third sending cold water directly to the hot-water line. All three are (probably) set for bypass. Try turning all three valves.

Look at lines right at the heater.

[Cheeva316]

This unit does not have an outside shower option. Where do I find this bypass valve for winterization?

[downtheroad]

darsben1 wrote:
the water heater bypass valve is on bypass for winterization

Correct. ....and if this doesn't solve it, check the outside shower. Make sure the faucet valves are off, not just the shut off on the sprayer head, but the valves themselves.

[darsben1]

the water heater bypass valve is on bypass for winterization