Help: leaking hot water heater

Forgot to check, till yesterday. Suburban Anode Rod/Plug socket size IS

1-1/16

I confuse that with the 1-1/8 that works the decorative retaining nuts on our DICOR wheel simulators.

For my own memory and anybody else interested, the Ford E-Series Wheel Nuts are 7/8 and torque is 140.

Now to remember that till the next OP asks...

Any garage would have the socket and extension to put the anode rod back in. Line it up straight and turn clockwise.

The anodes I install with tape, deteriorate just fine, too. The threads cut through the tape and connect with the tank. I want something that doesn't leak, yet I can get the anode out without a Battle Royal. I worry about damaging the tank lining if I have to go after the anode with a breaker bar, impact wrench, etc.

I went out to find the wrench size but it was too dark. I'm thinking 1-1/16" but would like to verify it.

then you are tightening so much that the threads cut through the tape.

pigman1 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
j-d the tape insulates the anode rod and prevents it from working.

No, it doesn't. I've been using teflon plumbers tape on the anode for years. Each time I pull it out it's deteriorated as it should be.

pianotuna wrote:
j-d the tape insulates the anode rod and prevents it from working.

No, it doesn't. I've been using teflon plumbers tape on the anode for years. Each time I pull it out it's deteriorated as it should be.

j-d the tape insulates the anode rod and prevents it from working.

If it's a steel plug with a long magnesium (looks like aluminum) anode rod, you have a Suburban water heater. With obstructions around the hole the anode goes into, it's very hard to install one with just the strength of your fingers. I use a socket with an extension bar. I wrap the threads with teflon tape then the head of the anode with electrical tape so it presses hard into the socket. Then I work it till the anode and the extension are lined up. That way, it's easy to know how the anode's lined up inside the tank, with how the extension looks on the outside.

With tape on the threads, the anode doesn't have to be all that tight. My guess is that if you can get the anode installed, and the bypass valves in the correct position, you will have "fixed" the appliance. If it wasn't "leaking" last season it probably doesn't have an actual leak. Just the Anode out, which is decent winterizing. Some remove it to drain the heater then put it back right away. Others leave it out for the winter.

Speak to other campers, or campground maintenance people. They might be able to help you or loan you a tool to install that element.

If the kitchen is near the water heater, the bypass valves could be the ones behind the drawers. Mine are actually underneath the drawers in my kitchen. They are someplace between the connection from the water mains to the last faucet before the water heater and the water heater itself.

As tenbear said, there are various setups, using anywhere from one to three valves.

The water heater bypass valves should be right at the water heater. Mine has 3 valves. Two are right in the hoses entering the heater. The third is between the 2 hoses on the hose side of the other 2 valves. The valves into the heater should be closed, the valve between them should be open.

There are other types of bypass valves. All are right at the heater.

I'm sure we have them. Thank you. Does anyone know if they are the valves on the outside storage bin where the water filter is housed or the ones in the kitchen behind the drawers.

Thanks again