Hello all!Ok, so backstory is I'm doing research on installing a 3000w inverter in my travel trailer, and rather than go through a super complicated and expensive direct to panel wire install, I'm planning using the jury rigged solution of wiring a receptacle to the high output terminals on the inverter and plugging my standard shore power cable into that to power the AC appliances on battery.The obvious (at least to me) solution is to use a 30 amp receptacle since it only has three wires and that's what the inverters typically come with. Then use a standard 30-50 amp adapter to get my shore power cable plugged in.Being the efficiency minded person that I am, though, I think it would be nice to avoid using an adapter at all, if possible. I'd like to use a 50 amp receptacle and wire both hot sides together with some sort of bridge, sort of like how they do with the 50-30 amp dog bones. That way I still have just 3 wires coming out of the outlet box but get both legs of the 50 amp cable powered, and I can just plug my 50 amp surge protector straight into the outlet without anything else in the way. My uneducated intuition says maybe another wire spanning from one terminal post to the other, but I'm not sure how safe it is to have current hopping from one side of the outlet to the other.Any suggestions?

avarusbrightfyre wrote: rather than go through a super complicated and expensive direct to panel wire install, I'm planning using the jury rigged solution of wiring a receptacle to the high output terminals on the inverter and plugging my standard shore power cable into that to power the AC appliances on battery.I'm no 50a expert, but I'll try some of this.A direct-to-panel install is a piece of cake, at least it was on my 30a coach. I just found where the shore cable connected to the panel's input cable, broke that, ran it to inverter 120v in, and 120v out to panel. Easy.You said "high output terminals." A 3000 watt inverter should have a hard-wire option.. is that what you mean?

2oldman wrote:avarusbrightfyre wrote: rather than go through a super complicated and expensive direct to panel wire install, I'm planning using the jury rigged solution of wiring a receptacle to the high output terminals on the inverter and plugging my standard shore power cable into that to power the AC appliances on battery.I'm no 50a expert, but I'll try some of this.A direct-to-panel install is a piece of cake, at least it was on my 30a coach. I just found where the shore cable connected to the panel's input cable, broke that, ran it to inverter 120v in, and 120v out to panel. Easy.You said "high output terminals." A 3000 watt inverter should have a hard-wire option.. is that what you mean?Yes, I meant hard wire. The 110 outlets only output like 1000 watts from what I've read. The hard wire outputs can do the full load of the inverter. I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.

avarusbrightfyre wrote:I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.No, that's because they're not chargers.Beware of cheaper models though. They're often lighter, meaning they're made of cheaper materials, and don't often live up to their wattage ratings, and won't likely last more than a couple years depending on your use. After going through one of these I bit the bullet and got an Outback 3400w. It's heavy, almost as heavy as a generator, but built like a tank. In the end it's much cheaper to just buy the best the first time.Cry once.

2oldman wrote:avarusbrightfyre wrote:I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.No, that's because they're not chargers.Agreed. I don't need a charger, as the RV came with one. I just need to turn that off when the inverter is on.

What make and model of inverter? You may wish to check the output voltage.I wired my inverter to a plug. Doing it for 50 amp would only require a jumper from L1 to L2.

50 Amp Receptacle to Inverter | Good Sam Community

2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 03, 2020
avarusbrightfyre wrote:
rather than go through a super complicated and expensive direct to panel wire install, I'm planning using the jury rigged solution of wiring a receptacle to the high output terminals on the inverter and plugging my standard shore power cable into that to power the AC appliances on battery.
I'm no 50a expert, but I'll try some of this.

A direct-to-panel install is a piece of cake, at least it was on my 30a coach. I just found where the shore cable connected to the panel's input cable, broke that, ran it to inverter 120v in, and 120v out to panel. Easy.

You said "high output terminals." A 3000 watt inverter should have a hard-wire option.. is that what you mean?
avarusbrightfyr
Explorer
Apr 03, 2020
2oldman wrote:
avarusbrightfyre wrote:
rather than go through a super complicated and expensive direct to panel wire install, I'm planning using the jury rigged solution of wiring a receptacle to the high output terminals on the inverter and plugging my standard shore power cable into that to power the AC appliances on battery.
I'm no 50a expert, but I'll try some of this.

A direct-to-panel install is a piece of cake, at least it was on my 30a coach. I just found where the shore cable connected to the panel's input cable, broke that, ran it to inverter 120v in, and 120v out to panel. Easy.

You said "high output terminals." A 3000 watt inverter should have a hard-wire option.. is that what you mean?

Yes, I meant hard wire. The 110 outlets only output like 1000 watts from what I've read. The hard wire outputs can do the full load of the inverter.

I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 03, 2020
avarusbrightfyre wrote:
I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.
No, that's because they're not chargers.

Beware of cheaper models though. They're often lighter, meaning they're made of cheaper materials, and don't often live up to their wattage ratings, and won't likely last more than a couple years depending on your use. After going through one of these I bit the bullet and got an Outback 3400w. It's heavy, almost as heavy as a generator, but built like a tank. In the end it's much cheaper to just buy the best the first time.

Cry once.
avarusbrightfyr
Explorer
Apr 03, 2020
2oldman wrote:
avarusbrightfyre wrote:
I'm avoiding the $1,500 GoPower or Victron options in favor of a $300 standard pure sine inverter. None of these more affordable models appear to have an AC in.
No, that's because they're not chargers.

Agreed. I don't need a charger, as the RV came with one. I just need to turn that off when the inverter is on.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Apr 03, 2020
What make and model of inverter? You may wish to check the output voltage.

I wired my inverter to a plug. Doing it for 50 amp would only require a jumper from L1 to L2.
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 03, 2020
My standard recommendation for high-wattage inverters, if you do run microwaves and toasters and coffee makers regularly, is to get a 24v or higher model. Higher voltage in means smaller cables and less potential for heat buildup in the batteries and cable connectors.
DrewE
Explorer II
Apr 03, 2020
This is definitely one area where, at least to some extent, you get what you pay for. A $300 pure sine wave 3000W inverter is either going to be significantly overspecified (not capable of putting out anywhere near its rated output continuously), or not actually pure sine wave, or very poorly constructed with sometimes dubious safety.

Anyhow, wiring the hot output of the inverter to both hots of the 50A receptacle for your shore power cord is apropriate and is what the 30A to 50A adapters do. There's no inherent safety issues with that wiring setup.
avarusbrightfyr
Explorer
Apr 03, 2020
DrewE wrote:
This is definitely one area where, at least to some extent, you get what you pay for. A $300 pure sine wave 3000W inverter is either going to be significantly overspecified (not capable of putting out anywhere near its rated output continuously), or not actually pure sine wave, or very poorly constructed with sometimes dubious safety.

Anyhow, wiring the hot output of the inverter to both hots of the 50A receptacle for your shore power cord is apropriate and is what the 30A to 50A adapters do. There's no inherent safety issues with that wiring setup.

I've been struggling to find good information on inverters. Do you have any recommendations for quality pure sine wave inverters at that wattage? I'd need one with the hard wire terminal.
avarusbrightfyr
Explorer
Apr 03, 2020
2oldman wrote:
My standard recommendation for high-wattage inverters, if you do run microwaves and toasters and coffee makers regularly, is to get a 24v or higher model. Higher voltage in means smaller cables and less potential for heat buildup in the batteries and cable connectors.

I admit I may be confused, but wouldn't that mean running a 24 volt battery bank? How would that work with the 12V system in the RV?
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 03, 2020
avarusbrightfyre wrote:
I admit I may be confused, but wouldn't that mean running a 24 volt battery bank? How would that work with the 12V system in the RV?
DC /DC converter.

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