Anode Rod Rusted Tight
I have not used my truck camper in a year so I sanitized the water tank. I tried to then drain the water heater and the anode rod is rusted tight and will not break loose. I tried WD-40 and liquid wre...
Forum Discussion
Yep, Suburban uses a porcelain-lined (always thought it was "glass-lined" but comes down to same thing, namely a little fragile) STEEL tank. And an Anode Rod. The other brand, Atwood, uses an Aluminum Tank, NO Anode, and drains through a threaded plastic plug.
Thinking about this, I'd spray penetrant for sure, and try an impact driver on the anode. My choice would be one that can be set to just "tap" at it, or at least isn't all that powerful. For example, I have a 1/2" air impact that I can set low, and/or reduce air pressure supplying it. My 1/2" electric impact is an all-or-nothing thing and wouldn't be my first choice. I'd be tempted to try my cordless impact screw gun, trigger adjustable. I know it's only a "screwdriver" but I've used it to dismantle compressors and small engines. It's that "rattle" you want, shouldn't need brute force torque.
Thinking about this, I'd spray penetrant for sure, and try an impact driver on the anode. My choice would be one that can be set to just "tap" at it, or at least isn't all that powerful. For example, I have a 1/2" air impact that I can set low, and/or reduce air pressure supplying it. My 1/2" electric impact is an all-or-nothing thing and wouldn't be my first choice. I'd be tempted to try my cordless impact screw gun, trigger adjustable. I know it's only a "screwdriver" but I've used it to dismantle compressors and small engines. It's that "rattle" you want, shouldn't need brute force torque.
