Any downsides tp flipping the axles?

We flipped our fifth wheel axles - made for a better ride because our truck rode high, and better clearance for the types of places we like to boondock. If we ever go back to a fifth wheel, we'll do it again.

BFL13 wrote:
The trailer we had "flipped" was built with the Dexter axles on two rails that AFAIK Dexter did. Like a bogie for a railway car.

The trailer factory then welded those rails to the bottom of the Lippert frame each side. To raise the trailer, they un-welded the rails from the frame and put in "spacer" bar that went between the Dexter rails and the frame.

That way, the original Dexter kit was not changed and there was no way to disturb the alignment of the two axles and the hangers etc . If it is not done that way, you can have lots of trouble with axle alignment and so on.

Ours is the same.

I really like my flipped trailer -- great ground clearance. But there are some disadvantages -- in addition to a higher center of gravity, more wind resistance and greater exposure to damage from overhanging branches. But I would do it it again, knowing what I now know.

Thank you everyone. I'll have to discuss what the shop plans on doing before giving the go ahead.

Where would one find a welding shop that does this work? I don't know how to weld, don't know any welders either.

The rest of the process looks pretty straight forward. Only a single axle on my little trailer... It could really use the extra ground clearance.

The term flipping is misleading. The axle maintains the same orientation, i.e. bow will still be in the same position, it's just move above the axle. Welding a new perch is perfectly safe. The original perches were welded along with the spindles. The axles are thick walled.

I thank who ever ordered my 5er. It came with a $86 option of 3 height adjustments.

Our TT model is standard with overslung axles but have nothing to reference it to. Nothing negative that I can think of about it. Our truck is 4WD and about 6" higher off the ground than a 2WD and no issues with the WDH or anything else. Our setup tows great on freeways or twisty roads.

A frame & axle shop once told me that the conversion kits are not a good idea. Can't remember why tho. If getting someone to weld to the axle, I'd want to know that the welder is certified and dang good.

In addition to other points made above, the conversion will cause an increase in lateral force on the spring hangers. Depending on length of the trailer, it's GVWR and the frame strength, you may want to think about adding gussets above the spring hanger. Some frames are a weaker design and can develop fatigue cracks in the I-beams above the spring hangers due to continual left/right flexing of the spring hangers over time.

You may or may not feel more movement in the trailer when set up at a CG. Stabilizer struts can help in some cases.

I just welded on new saddles (to move my axles under the springs) last month. It isn't a complicated job. Dexter sells an "overslung/underslung conversion kit" for that purpose, if you want to buy a prepackaged solution (still requires welding). I just purchased new spring perches (saddles), U-bolts, and new tie plates (the new U-bolts were a heavy duty version that wouldn't work with the old tie plates) and did it myself. I can provide info on how to do this job if anyone is interested (and has welding skills).

With 2-3/8" axles, my trailer is raised 4.5" which was needed for my WD hitch set up on my 2014 Ram 2500 4x4. The trailer tows straight, and doesn't feel any different than before raising it. I do use one sway controller on the right side of the hitch. My diesel economy may have suffered a tiny bit due to the trailer being higher. I'm getting just under 12 mpg towing this Prowler 24C at 65-70 mph.

ktmrfs wrote:
lots of trailers come with the axles flipped. flipping them will raise the trailer center of gravity, that does have an affect on stability. How much, who knows.

And it's slightly higher to get into or out of. But you get more clearance and may make leveling the trailer for towing easier.

My position exactly but I'll address the raised entrance

Make a step box.. Depending on how high the trailer is raised

Take a 2x 12, and that is your "Step" it should be as long or slightly longer than the steps are wide.

Now, depending on the rise you can sue a 4x4 two of them 11 1/2" long or a pair of 2x6 or even a length of 2x12 to bring the step up so it's a natural step entering into RV

Shock mounts may need repositioned on the frame or use longer shocks. Perch should be welded, IMHO. May need to add another step, extend the stabilizers and the brake wiring. Stabilizers become less stable the taller you go. Tongue height at the hitch will increase the same amount as the frame. Axle clearance does not change unless you put larger tires on.

It's easy to do if you have a welder & tools. I don't know if stability changes on a regular trailer. I've done it on 5th wheel campers & mostly because the trucks seem to get taller every year.