After having to take last year and this spring and summer off, want to do a couple of dry camping trips this fall - No. CA and NV, So. OR. Currently have the 84 AH Group 24 the used RV dealer put in. Have had issues in the past with the heater fan draining the battery too far when fall camping (and, as a result, the battery is probably shot).We do not have and won't be getting an inverter. Fridge is 2 way so no 12V there. We're changing interior lights over to LED as they blow.Decided on two Lifeline GPL-4CT 6V batteries (220 AH).Leaning towards AM Solar's budget setup for 210 watts (105 x 2). Will be mounting flat.Also leaning towards a Victron monitor over the TriMetric. Mainly because it comes with shunt and cables making it effectively cheaper, partly because it does not look like something I made in HS electronics.Not planning on a generator unless we decide to use AC some season down the road.So, anything glaringly wrong with this path? Any suggestions?First investment in the trailer since buying it in 2008!-CJ

Do you need AGM batteries? If you had 70+ amps charging from generator power they certainly have an advantage. With about 10 amps from solar there is not really much advantage besides lower maintenance.I would tend to save the AGM battery money to get more battery capacity or immediately replace all lamps with LED.I kinda feel the same way with the battery monitor. Although it will have benefit of telling you if you need to conserve power or ok to live it up. Can't really help tell when to start the generator or how long to run it. The money spent on more battery, solar or LEDs would create actual benefit to keeping the furnace running. Simple voltmeter is close enough for what you are doing and might even be included on the solar controller.

@smkettner,1. Someone in the past moved the battery from the two battery tray to the floor of the front compartment. I suspect this was for access as in the tray it is a royal pain to get to the cells for filling. I'm going back to the tray for two batteries and want the real estate on the floor back. Kinda need low maintenance.2. Budget controller does not have a volt meter but I would consider a simple voltmeter and state-of-charge chart in lieu of a monitor. That would save enough for a bunch of LED bulbs. Read most of the threads in a search for "battery monitor" and kind of got numb.Thanks,- CJ

You getting a budget solar, but getting lifeline batteries ? Money not well spent IMO.

Lifeline batteries PDF recommends high bulk rates, the higher the better but no more than 14.4v unless a "conditioning" cycle is required, for which they have a prescribed procedure.Get a Solar controller which can do this procedure, and preferably more solar too unless you are regularly using higher amp charging sources when heavily depleted.

@RJsfishin,OK, suggestions, then?I said "Leaning towards..." AMs fancier kits have tilting mounts I don't want. No ladder on my trailer and even if there was it would be at the wrong end, so no hopping on the roof at each site.And the controller is a 20 amp MorningStar SunSaver. Not sure I need more.But, here to learn.- CJ

Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?

mena661
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
Two to four days then shore power? And no inverter. You don't need solar. Get two flooded (not AGM) 6V batteries, LED's and a good converter (BTW I don't like converters but they work for some people) and call us in the morning.
BaddogLT
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
@robatthelake,

I knew that but spaced it. From my digging here the draw is low but...

Thanks,

- CJ
BaddogLT
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
@smkettner,

No trips to So. Cal. planned. Looks like that is backordered but I will poke around the site. Not married to amsolar.com but found their site informative.

Thanks,

-CJ
robatthelake
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
You say the Fridge is two way so won't need the 12 Volt! Well unless it is a115 Volt Only unit Guess again!
In order to function on Propane You must have 12 Volts unless of course it is a Really Old manually Lit model with a pilot light!

Not likely in a 2001 model !
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 26, 2014
Any chance you are driving through So. CA?

solarblvd.com in Norco has 280 watts for $318 +tax.
Good Morningstar controller $87 or MS SS with remote meter for $148.

Also consider a watering system for easy battery maintenance. Truthfully you should not need to add water but once or twice a year.
Shadow_Catcher
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
We have a 185W 66cell high voltage panel feeding a Morningstar MPPT controller 150AH lifeline AGM Victron monitor. The big difference the high voltage panel which give usable current in lower light levels. I have a 300W Moningstar Suresine inverter. variations on a them I used computer case fans (lower power draw).
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 26, 2014
Plans versus reality

Interface with 2-grains of salt

Remain flexible in your boondocking lifestyle.

Few RV energy plans are plug and play
landyacht318
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
Prolly not then, depends on how much you need to offset usage on those 2 to 4 nights. I'm streaming Video from Tahiiti with all fans on, and my battery certainly wishes I had more that 198 watts of solar.

Its hard to have too much. Easy to have too little.
BaddogLT
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
@landyacht318,

We used to keep the trailer at one place all summer but sold that lot. So, plan is two to four nights then shore power.

I understand that flat I won't get the full 210 watts. But do I need more solar?

Thanks,

- CJ
BaddogLT
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
@RJsfishin,

OK, suggestions, then?

I said "Leaning towards..." AMs fancier kits have tilting mounts I don't want. No ladder on my trailer and even if there was it would be at the wrong end, so no hopping on the roof at each site.

And the controller is a 20 amp MorningStar SunSaver. Not sure I need more.

But, here to learn.

- CJ

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