Atwood furnace problem..again

Your sail switch is stuck.you could also have a bad thermastat

Maybe have a mobile tech come out.

Dirty sail switch
Bad time delay relay.
I would start by opening unit up and giving it a good blow job with some canned air. Look for the sail switch arm, extending into the blower housing. make sure you hit it good.

I think the FIRST thing is a check out by a QUALIFIED RV Tech. Replacing all those parts in such a short time span is not correct. The motors last for years and the circuit boards rarely fail. The "burner" tube is also a rare failure, unless it was corroded. Do you still have the 2001 RV? If so, I would lean towards replacing the complete furnace(13 years old). Internal corrosion is what would cause the Motors to fail that quick and if the motors corroded, then the interior casing and such may have corrosion. Doug

I agree with dougrainer, replacing that many parts is unusual. If it is something you can do, I'd pull that puppy out and check it out fully. Pull your board and have it checked at a RV shop. There are devices for doing that. If there isn't any board, pull and clean all the connections. Something weird is happening in your heater. Check Suburban's website for repair manuals. They may have them in PDF format. I'd PM Chris Bryant and ask him about trouble shooting and repair manuals in PDF.

On Edit:

For spadoctor, I'm so very sorry, I put down Suburban and not Atwood. Please change procedure to check Atwood on line and check with Bryant about Atwood heaters.

uhhhhh....he said its an attwood furnace.

I need to boiler plate this, In fact I think I will.

WHat happens when heat is called for:

Thermostat calls for heat
Control board starts blower
Sail switch is closed by the force of blowen air on the "Sail".
Control board opens propane valve and starts making sparks (DSI)
Options 1 of 2
Control board continues ignition for brief (3 seconds?) time then looks for flame report (0.480 volts from flame sensor probe) (Same lead as ignition)
Option 2
Control board continues ignition and looks for flame report on separate flame sense lead.

If flame is sensed it shuts off the sparker.

In both cases.

If flame is sensed, operation continues till T-stat shuts down

If no flame is sensed, It tries again, and if needed again. Then locks out and fires up the FAULT light. (if you have one).

If it continues. When it gets hot enough the T-Stat says "ENOUGH already" and the flame is cut off (propane flow) followed by a brief cool down and shutting down of the blower.

If at any time the furnace gets too hot, OR the air flow is reduced to the cut off for the sail switch. IMMED shut down of flame.

All I hear is the blower motor. It starts up and just keeps running. No clicks,roar or anything.

Many Atwoods do not have the time delay on the circuit board.
It is a separate part mounted to the fan housing.

Bigdog wrote:
All I hear is the blower motor. It starts up and just keeps running. No clicks,roar or anything.

Atwood----Either the Sail switch OR the hi limit switch will cause NO power to the Control board to start ignition. Your year model has a separate Time delay which is working since the motor runs. Your year model, UNLESS they replaced the control board with the original model will leave the fan ON if no flame. USUALLY, in the past 7 or 8 years, when the control module is replaced you install a new style with a fan cut off circuit to stop the blower when no flame. Doug