Awkward Atwood Problem

Please post your Atwood Model Number. We'll try to help.

With that number, you should be able to look up a service manual at bryantrv.com and manuals usually have troubleshooting.

j-d wrote:
Please post your Atwood Model Number. We'll try to help.

With that number, you should be able to look up a service manual at bryantrv.com and manuals usually have troubleshooting.

Sorry, it is a GC6AA-10E

Model number doesn't much matter after Model Year 2004 ------ALL models after that use 12V DC to operate both electric and propane (for controls)

The Dual On/Off Switch for 'electric' and 'propane' gets 12V DC power from the DC Dist Panel (fuse). Same 12V power goes to both switches.

Then Separate wiring goes to each one of the different heat sources.

Electric uses 12V to a 'relay' that triggers 120V AC to the element (under cover where element is---backside of WH Tank)
Propane uses 12V to the gas solenoid/spark electrode for main flame
Both use same circuit board and set of t-stats for control

Electric sends 12V from On/Off Switch to circuit board thru the WHITE WIRE (on connector)
Propane send 12V from On/Off Switch to circuit board thru the ORANGE WIRE (on connector)

With propane on/off switch turned ON you should have 12V on ORANGE to board then 12V from board on BROWN to t-stat.
No 12V on ORANGE to board.....check output of ON/OFF switch
No 12V on BROWN from board....pull connector off and check connector pins (none bent) and clean up contact surface on board with pencil eraser.

Here is how ON/OFF Switches are wired



Here is the wiring scheme for controls




Without AC Power and propane worked BUT you had to turn electric on also then start AT switches........Propane switch should be getting power directly (via jumper) whether electric switch is ON or OFF
Might be that Electric switch is not passing power to jumper unless on ......then BAD electric switch.

X2 on old biscuit theory, but I want to add the possibility that the 3 pin switch may be wired wrong... As in the side of the switch with the jumper wire to the other switch may be wired backward so that the 12 V+ is only getting to the jumper once the switch is thrown.

It has always worked until this year. Only item changed has been the thermostat. I will probably order new switch as they are only $11 after I check all connections tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas guys. I will come back when I find a solution.

I did end up changing the switch and it did not solve the problem. I ended up running it like this the rest of summer without issue.