Not sure if this is the right forum or not, but here goes.A couple of months ago, I got a new to me 2012 Koala trailer. The dealer said he was going to put a new house battery in it. The house battery is a Group 24.The trailer came with a WFCO converter/charger.Fast forward to now. The battery will not run the electric tongue jack. It tries to. Sometimes it will move the jack 5 or 6 inches before acting like it's out of juice.However, if the trailer is hooked up to a 120VAC outlet, the jack works just fine.I keep the TT pluged into the 30amp reciptical at the house, and it also has a chance to charge while we're traveling, which so far, has only been 220 miles round trip. I'm going to Sears to get a new multimeter since my old one bit the dust.Where should I start looking?Should I take the battery out, let it sit for a couple of hours and then test it, to make sure it's good?Where do I turn after that?Thanks,

First check the water in the battery.Next check the connections, at the battery and the ground connection.Then do the voltage readings and let us know the results.

Unplug the trailer and check the voltage at the battery terminals with the volt-meter.If it reads above 12.6 volts right after unplugging it, charging has just been taking place. Now wait for about 24 hours (unplugged) and check the voltage again. The voltage should be holding at 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it is lower than the battery is bad do to sulfating and poor management.You described a weak battery in your post. What kind of battery did they install? Starting, marine, or deep-cycle? What brand? Have your checked the cells for low water level?The converter/charger will charge at either about 13.7 volts, or 14.4 volts early on if 3-stage and return to 13.6 volts in 4 hours or less. When charged the meter would read 13.2 volts in about 24 hours (or less) if left plugged into shore-power.My MH came with a WFCO 8945 (45 amp 3-stage charger) which still works fine. If the charger gets the charging pattern I mentioned it is working.

MNtundraRet wrote:Unplug the trailer and check the voltage at the battery terminals with the volt-meter.If it reads above 12.6 volts right after unplugging it, charging has just been taking place. Now wait for about 24 hours (unplugged) and check the voltage again. The voltage should be holding at 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it is lower than the battery is bad do to sulfating and poor management.You described a weak battery in your post. What kind of battery did they install? Starting, marine, or deep-cycle? What brand? Have your checked the cells for low water level?The converter/charger will charge at either about 13.7 volts, or 14.4 volts early on if 3-stage and return to 13.6 volts in 4 hours or less. When charged the meter would read 13.2 volts in about 24 hours (or less) if left plugged into shore-power.My MH came with a WFCO 8945 (45 amp 3-stage charger) which still works fine. If the charger gets the charging pattern I mentioned it is working.Thanks for the information.The battery is an Interstate. It's the typical 12 volt marine type. The WFCO is the 8955 model. I know it's a 55 amp 3-stage charger.After I get a new multimeter, I'll go through all those checks.

I'll report back once I figure out what's going on.1995brave wrote:First check the water in the battery.Next check the connections, at the battery and the ground connection.Then do the voltage readings and let us know the results.

Pretty simple to see if the converter is charging. Measure battery voltage with the trailer unplugged from shore power and after plugging in. If no rise, not charging.

Battery charging problem, maybe? | Good Sam Community

Atlee
Explorer II
Sep 03, 2013
Followup to my battery problem/question.

I eventually put in a Grp 31 Sam's Club Model 29HM flooded cell battery. It was rated at 105 amps. These batteries are made by East Penn, I believe. I didn't have room on the tongue to fit two 6 volts, so I went with the largest 12 volt they had.

I did have to remove the old battery box since it only fit a Grp 24.

I was on the road with it from last Tuesday through Sunday. All seems well now.
Atlee
Explorer II
Aug 25, 2013
I just put the multi-meter on it. May that battery RIP. I'll be getting a new one tomorrow. What's in it now is a grp 24. I'm going to get the largest one available to replace. I'll have to get a new battery box too.

Unfortunately I do not have the space foe two 6 volts.

RJsfishin wrote:
Ok, that sounds better.

Keep in mind that even a bad and/or 1/2 dead battery will show full charge when you first remove it from a charger. This is where a load tester tells the story.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Aug 25, 2013
Ok, that sounds better.

Keep in mind that even a bad and/or 1/2 dead battery will show full charge when you first remove it from a charger. This is where a load tester tells the story.
Atlee
Explorer II
Aug 25, 2013
I did a poor job explaining. When I unplugged the TT, the battery was actually showing a full charge. Also, when I said they were dry, I meant they were below the top of the plates.

Also, what I meant about leaving it unplugged, was I'd check the battery after it had been off the charger for a while.

Sorry to have confused.

RJsfishin wrote:
The battery is dead, 2 cells were dry, you filled them, left it unplugged, then you're coming back to check the voltage !?? And just what do you expect the voltage to read ? I'm speechless !
But then, I could have read it wrong.

Maybe you should read "12v side of life"
tenbear
Explorer
Aug 25, 2013
Atlee wrote:
Follow up to my battery question.

I thing I found at least one of my problems. Yesterday, upon examination of the battery, I found the negative wire was very loose. This probably explains why the tongue jack wouldn't work so well.

I did find another potential problem though. Two of the cells were nearly dry, and all of them needed some water. I filled it with distilled water.

I also left the TT unplugged, and will check the voltage of the battery again today.

I would charge the battery, check the voltage while charging, when the voltage drops to the float level, probably about 13.2v it is charged. If the converter or charger won't charge the battery it is probably bad.

Stop charging and put a light load on it to get rid of the surface charge. The voltage should settle out about 12.6v.

The battery may, or may not be toast. If in doubt have it tested.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Aug 25, 2013
The battery is dead, 2 cells were dry, you filled them, left it unplugged, then you're coming back to check the voltage !?? And just what do you expect the voltage to read ? I'm speechless !
But then, I could have read it wrong.

Maybe you should read "12v side of life"
Atlee
Explorer II
Aug 25, 2013
Follow up to my battery question.

I thing I found at least one of my problems. Yesterday, upon examination of the battery, I found the negative wire was very loose. This probably explains why the tongue jack wouldn't work so well.

I did find another potential problem though. Two of the cells were nearly dry, and all of them needed some water. I filled it with distilled water.

I also left the TT unplugged, and will check the voltage of the battery again today.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 21, 2013
Hi,

I suspect the converter has hatched your battery or else there are loose connections. Let's hope it is the latter. Take off the connectors at the battery, shine them up, reconnect and apply anti corrosion spray liberally.
Atlee
Explorer II
Aug 21, 2013
It stays plugged in. I have a 30amp RV plug next to my garage.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

How long do you plug in the rv before trying to use it?
RJsfishin
Explorer
Aug 21, 2013
On your way back from getting a vom meter, swing bu HF and pick up one of these.http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9191.html You won't be sorry.

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