Best portable heater (30 amp) for my rv?

thank you everyone for your answers. You guys are the best.

Jimbo

Resistance based electric heat is 98% efficient, but the problem is that conventional sources of electrical power production like coal and gas are around 30-49% efficient. Plus you have to use power to send electricity over long distances on the grid.

travisc,

Electric heaters are generally 99.9% efficient. Watts are watts.

However volts x amps = watts.

If the voltage is 120 then:

120 x 120 = 14400

If the voltage drops to 100 then:

100 x 100 = 10000.

That results in a significant loss of watts, about 30%

We have two of these due to their small size but looks like they may not sell them anymore

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Broan-Big-Heat-Portable-Heater-p/08-0105.htm

RAS43 wrote:

2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.

That's helpful for OP. ??

I am sure the OP wants portable electric heaters as park electric is included in the site price, propane isn’t. Well my furnace also works fine, and when the wall switch is flipped to electric I am using the park provided electricity. I am heated and the basement is heated.

2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.

Hmmm ... so does mine. ;)

But probably the OP was wanting advice for hookup camping. I sure wish I had the money to blow on enough lithium batteries and solar panels to keep an electric heater running while drycamping - since I really hate running around in small towns looking for a place that can/will refill my RV's built-in propane tank. :B

2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.

That's helpful for OP. ??

My furnace works fine.

I’ve always preferred ceramic heaters for their safety advantage over most other portable electric heaters. The only other portable heater that would have a similar safety level (some would say better) would be oil-filled heaters. I would say the ceramics work better, and are much smaller though.

This is copied from the Wikipedia article on ceramic heaters. It briefly explains it better than I can.

“Electric heating elements made of resistance wire have a positive temperature coefficient of resistivity, but do not increase their resistance enough to be self-regulating; they are typically used with the wires red-hot. The ceramic, on the other hand, increases its resistance sharply at the Curie temperatures of the crystalline components, typically 120 degrees Celsius, and remains below 200 degrees Celsius, providing a significant safety advantage.“

Keep in mind also that air circulation is important, especially in an RV that typically isn’t insulated very well. If you allow the air to stratify inside the camper, you will find yourself needing to run the heat more, and possibly still having freeze-up problems with plumbing and tanks.

:):)

I found that a portable heater was always in the way, and you had to be very carful not to knock it over.
And because the thermostat is mounted on the heater, there is a rather large temperature swing between on and off.

So I installed a toe kick electric heater. They are a small electric furnace and fit under the kitchen sink, and use a wall mounted thermostat.

Dusty