Just got a quote from the local Ford dealership... New pads, rotors, and seals. $1,900.00 My pads seem to be fine to me. They just squeak sometimes when in stop and go traffic. If you press the brake pedal it goes away. I'm thinking that the anti-squeal coating on the pads is dried up. Any suggestions?

Are you able to work on brakes, and do you want to? If so, dismantle, scuff pads with emery cloth (or a flat concrete surface) and put it all together lubing it with this You can get the front Calipers and Pads off easily. To pull the Rotor, you need to remove the Caliper Bracket, 21MM socket and they are TIGHT.What year is your Chassis? And How many Miles? Do you have the rear brakes on slide pins like the fronts, or does yours use the stainless steel drive wedges? With either, you can get it apart and do same as front, but drive wedges are a PITA to get back in place.Remember, unless your Chassis has the "Dump Truck Nose" you can upgrade to those brakes from a 4x4 conversion company.

measure the pads if thickness is an issue with the Stealer.If it is squeaking all the time, Fords are notorious for stuck caliper pins, well at least half of mine were stuck.

Just an ACTUAL parts COST 2008 Ford F450 Class C a guest's rig down here. The job was done. I guided him to parts stores, machine shop, and mechanic's shopNEW RAYBESTOS ROTORS: $13.30 eachNEW KELSEY HAYS CALIPERS $48.00 (approx) each.NEW Canadian BEARINGS all of them with seals $26.00I talked him into getting a new master cylinder $60.00Machine shop labor to turn 2 rotors $16.00Brake shop labor including total flush of the entire system $60.00He had spent close to $700 in Canada to do the rear drum brakes.All except the bearings were stamped Hecho en Mexico (made in Mexico)

j-d wrote:Are you able to work on brakes, and do you want to? If so, dismantle, scuff pads with emery cloth (or a flat concrete surface) and put it all together lubing it with this You can get the front Calipers and Pads off easily. To pull the Rotor, you need to remove the Caliper Bracket, 21MM socket and they are TIGHT.What year is your Chassis? And How many Miles? Do you have the rear brakes on slide pins like the fronts, or does yours use the stainless steel drive wedges? With either, you can get it apart and do same as front, but drive wedges are a PITA to get back in place.Remember, unless your Chassis has the "Dump Truck Nose" you can upgrade to those brakes from a 4x4 conversion company.I can do brakes, BUT not on this rig. The year of the E450 is 2006. It has 32,000 miles on it. Have no idea what the rear calipers have (pins or wedges) I'm the third owner of the RV, so I don't know brake maintenance. But I am guessing they haven't been done. The pedal feels good, no pulsing in the pedal, or lurching like the rotors are warped at all. They just squeak when crawling in stop and go traffic. They are probably fine, I will probably have the fronts done next spring, and the rears in the fall. Just so I know that the brakes are new. The trip this year is to Florida, so no real mountain descents to be of any worry. But 2018 is Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Glacier NP. Utah... So I would rather have piece of mind on the 2018 trip

Looks like your rear brakes use what I call "wedges"The four long pieces are slides and retainers for the rear pads, and the two little pieces are anti-rattle clips. My personal belief is that wedges cause more sticking than slide bolts do. And harder to remove and re-install.Checking/Changing/Lubricating the Front Pads/Calipers is one step beyond changing a tire. You should be able to get into a position where you can see the actual pads. If the material is a lot thicker than the steel backing, the pads'll get you to FL and back. Probably more.Let me know when you're coming, maybe I can catch you for a break along the road, 95 or 75. Then for next year, put advance thought into a brake job. If it doesn't need calipers or rotors, then do pads, use that lube, and go. If it needs more, get a takeoff Brake kit from Quigley. I don't know if Ford would want to install it because it'd be a mixed breed vehicle. Moonlighting Ford mechanic would be perfect, but any mechanic can do the swap. If it needs ball joints, get the whole Axle kit. It won't be "like new" - It'll BE NEW.Don't forget now, let me know what its weight was, from Jayco.

Brake job on E450 | Good Sam Community

j-d
Explorer II
Jul 22, 2017
Class C RV is an odd sort. It's a local delivery chassis carrying a heavy load. So, for things like oil changes, it's "severe duty."

But in my opinion, they aren't that hard on brakes. Oh, then can be, downhill stops in the mountains and stuff like that, but how many of us are doing that? We drive a few miles on local streets and secondary highways. Then a couple hundred on limited access interstates, turnpikes, freeways, before a few street level miles to the campground.

So I'm with the group that says "Probably NOT Worn Out." Our pads weren't bad, 35000 on the coach, when a caliper stuck and overheated a front brake. This is a big plus for Class C: Local chain store auto supply had Pads, Calipers, Hoses, all on hand. I changed the offending corner at the campground and the other when we got home.

But... Several trips later, I noticed the rust pattern that forms on rotors overnight, was NOT being uniformly burnished off by the new Pads. I also hadn't taken the rotors off (caliper mounting bracket bolts called for a breaker bar I didn't have along) and had them re-surfaced.

Most of the time, I don't replace or re-surface rotors that "look good." A previous Class C on E350 didn't stop well at all and I decided on new rotors hoping they'd help and did not.

If a Class C on a Ford E-Series chassis 1992-2007, late model 2008+ brakes are THE WAY to brakes worthy of that 14050 pounds. We just drove I-4 from Daytona to Disney. With lane shifts, traffic, inattentive tourists and aggressive locals, we used all the brakes we had. The new brakes are not only bigger diameter. The pad material is thicker, tougher, rotors thicker with bigger vents, and calipers of course have bigger pistons.

Those "new" Ford brakes work better than upgraded Pads. Better than Frozen, Drilled, Slotted, whatever, Rotors.
suprz
Explorer
Jul 22, 2017
I understand folks getting a lot of miles from their brakes. BUT this is a 14,050 LBS (7 tons) rolling brick. A lot of folks are talking about their F250, F350, ford trucks or vans. ( what do they weigh? ) There is a definite weight difference. I like to be proactive, about maintenance when I can. I take the safety of me and my loved ones as well as those on the road with me very seriously. I think we can all agree on that. 2000.00 is nothing if it prevents a accident
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Jul 22, 2017
Back to the OP. I amazed at how money is made and spent.

My first E250 had just over 100K when I changed the front rotors for the first time.

I sold it at 176K miles and it never did have a rotor turned or replaced on it. :h
suprz
Explorer
Jul 22, 2017
SidecarFlip wrote:
suprz wrote:
My wife's jeep liberty had phenolic pistons in the calipers and we had the same issue. **** stupid design. We finally traded it in for a new grand Cherokee

Probably has the same pistons, Fiat Chrysler like phenolic pistons.IO( could tell you stories about Jeep but I won't. I'm very familiar with the plant on Stickney Avenue in Toledo where they are put together.

Worst thing was when I went to Jeep to get a new rubber brake line that goes to the caliper... No one carried it but the local Jeep dealer, it was 40.00 bucks! The guy behind the counter go to get it and comes back with the entire hard line with the rubber line attached! It is all one piece now! The rubber hose is pressed onto the hard line! I almost died!
aruba5er
Explorer
Jul 21, 2017
I would guess that you don't need any work done on those brakes. At 32k they are just getting broken in, unless you don't know where to place your left foot. My 2500HD has 93k and the brakes look and feel and sound just fine. Pull a front wheel and look at them. The inboard and outboard pads should look about equal. For $1900 I can live with a little noise. And I would never spend any money to turn the rotors. If they need work replace them. I know my old F350 needed work and they tried machining them twice and ended up with new rotors. Should have saved the money the machanist wanted.
Weldon
Explorer
Jul 21, 2017
I will bet you don't need a brake job at 32,000 miles. I put 50,000 on a F-250 and there was still pad left. Get an independent shop to check and see for sure.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Jul 21, 2017
suprz wrote:
My wife's jeep liberty had phenolic pistons in the calipers and we had the same issue. **** stupid design. We finally traded it in for a new grand Cherokee

Probably has the same pistons, Fiat Chrysler like phenolic pistons.IO( could tell you stories about Jeep but I won't. I'm very familiar with the plant on Stickney Avenue in Toledo where they are put together.
suprz
Explorer
Jul 21, 2017
My wife's jeep liberty had phenolic pistons in the calipers and we had the same issue. **** stupid design. We finally traded it in for a new grand Cherokee
CharlesinGA
Explorer
Jul 21, 2017
My old Ranger uses the wedges on the front calipers, and I can get them out in about 30 seconds flat. They are quite easy to remove. Biggest problem I have had is the calipers have phenolic pistons and they tend to seize when hot after they have many miles on them. Had this happen twice now.

Charles
Chum_lee
Explorer
Jul 21, 2017
suprz: Am I missing something here? If you have a current third party extended warranty on your RV and THEY are willing to pay for your brake repairs at the Ford dealership, why is this an issue? Why not take it in and say, "Have at it guys!" As long as they replace everything with factory parts or better, chances are you have already paid for the repairs in advance. There may be issues with the deductible, if there is one.

Chum lee