class A brake job

Ask for a estimate of the labor, parts, and consumables, then you will know more of what you are getting. Ask if labor would be the same if you furnished the parts. Good Luck.

very interesting and educational, thanks again. Ive had two estimates/opinions. with all your valuable input i see they are a mixed bag. the high one $1700 did a good rendition on the axls/bearings/etc to explain the extra cost but then estimated only truning the rotors. the second guy with lower labor went with replacing rotors but said nothing about all the axle/bearing work. go figure. i suppose the 2nd one could have had the a&b work built in but just didn't go into it with me. If i go with him I will now be able to dig into himas a result of all this grat advice. thanks again.
len king soon to be a little rv brake savy

Kidoo wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
I'm guessing that most of you have never pulled the axles and hubs on a full floating Dana rear axle. Or removed/replaced the rotors.

Do you have to remove the axle to replace the rotors? Are the brake pads straight foward like similar brake system?

The brake pads/calipers are pretty much the same as on cars, just bigger and heavier. And yes, you do have to remove the axles and hubs in order to remove/replace the rotors. The rotors are bolted to the back of the hub at all wheel positions. No nice easy slip on rotors on an F53.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
I'm guessing that most of you have never pulled the axles and hubs on a full floating Dana rear axle. Or removed/replaced the rotors.

Do you have to remove the axle to replace the rotors? Are the brake pads straight foward like similar brake system?

I'm guessing that most of you have never pulled the axles and hubs on a full floating Dana rear axle. Or removed/replaced the rotors.

Hikerdogs wrote:


Some rotors today are only case hardened. If this is the case turning them isn't a good idea. Case hardening usually is only about .030" deep. When a case hardened rotor is turned the hard shell will be removed. When that happens the softer core will warp almost immediately. Make sure your rotors are through hardened if you want them turned. If they aren't it's just a waste of money.

Very good advice ,If the rotors are bad enough to need turned replace them you will come out money ahead in the end.

lckign wrote:
could anyone give me a ball park idea of what to expect in cost for brakes on a 35ft bounder, ford 2008 chassis. I know I need pads and rotors turned. got one estimate of $1700 plus. seems way too much.
anyone recommend good honest place in central florida, either coast ot middle?

Just a question, how many miles do you have on your MH. My MH has 72000 miles and the pad still look very good.

I do not know anyone turning rotors in my area anymore, just not worth it, and maybe the rotors are still good. Unless they are out of round, shaking when braking, or unless you ran on the totally worn off pad, they might be just fine. I would have them justify every part they will replace and all the labor cost and I would ask to see and give me the parts they remove, this sometimes gets a "HO this my be OK".

I just cannot figure how it can take 12 hours to do the brakes on a MH, please someone explain the "special" procedure. I think it's a ripoff.

To me it is just nuts and bolts, big nuts need bigger tools, that's it.

Ask the shop that wants to replace the rotors if the price includes new wheel bearings (cones) and races (cups). Personally I wouldn't transfer them from one rotor to another. If they don't plan on transferring them there will be additional parts needed.

Inner wheel bearings (cones) for the F53 chassis cost about $40.00 each, and the races(cups) cost about $25.00 each. Outer wheel bearing (cones) cost about $30.00 each, and the races (cups) cost about $15.00 each. The total cost of bearings and races for the front wheels would be around $220.00.

Some rotors today are only case hardened. If this is the case turning them isn't a good idea. Case hardening usually is only about .030" deep. When a case hardened rotor is turned the hard shell will be removed. When that happens the softer core will warp almost immediately. Make sure your rotors are through hardened if you want them turned. If they aren't it's just a waste of money.

Replace them. Too important of a feature to skimp on