I just bought an Olympian Wave 6 catalytic heater along with the necessary accessories. It's going to remain portable, rather than built in, so I just need a tie-in to the propane line under the stove top. Here's the problem: The local RV service center won't do it and I don't want to attempt it myself. Would a propane company be a better choice than an RV service facility? Where would I find a 'qualified installer'?

...and if you plan on using it inside how do you plan on venting for the heater?

Oylmpian CAT heaters require minimal venting. The first RV I had one in was so leaking I didn't bother. (an ET-8100, electronic ignition with thermostat, I don't think they make it any more)Do they not want to install something you didn't buy from them, or is it putting the heater in any rig?I would not think a propane firm is the right choice. There are many (MANY) RV services places in the area, even a few mobile ones. I'd keep looking.

I will stick solely to the OP's question...It makes sense to install a propane shutoff cock valve near the junction of the feed line to the heater. I am very, very touchy about what kind of supply line I use for the heater. Routing the line so it doesn't get in the way is one of my primary objectives. I have had to have custom LPG hoses made up with crimp 90 degree elbow fittings at a hose place in order to make a clean and neat installation.Best of fortune with your installation. You're going to love it! The pot bellied stove effect on a cold day is priceless!

Yes, that does make good sense to have a shutoff valve and I plan to have that added.

I also love my Olympian Wave-6 Heater. Started out with a Mr. Buddy Heater and upgraded this spring to the Wave-6 and have used it on 4 camping trips so far with it working flawlessly in temperatures down to the low 30's overnight. I chose to carry a 5 gallon exterior propane tank and installed a 12 foot hose from the exterior into the interior via an existing hole in the floor of the 5th wheel trailer. I just had to remove the sealant at this existing hole, insert the hose through the hole and then re-seal it. the outside portion of the hose is wrapped at the tank connection end with a plastic bag to protect against the elements during travel and this end is also secured to the frame with a Velcro strap during travel. I keep at least 4 windows cracked open and both roof vents cracked open when operating the Wave-6. Inside temperature has varied from 60 to 70 degrees upon getting out of bed in the morning, and this is on the 3000 BTU low setting. This fall I may have to turn it up to the 4500 BTU setting when the temps get into the 20's overnight.

Catalytic heater install | Good Sam Community

M_GO_BLUE1
Explorer
Apr 24, 2013
...and if you plan on using it inside how do you plan on venting for the heater?
n7bsn
Explorer
Apr 24, 2013
Oylmpian CAT heaters require minimal venting. The first RV I had one in was so leaking I didn't bother. (an ET-8100, electronic ignition with thermostat, I don't think they make it any more)

Do they not want to install something you didn't buy from them, or is it putting the heater in any rig?

I would not think a propane firm is the right choice. There are many (MANY) RV services places in the area, even a few mobile ones. I'd keep looking.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Apr 24, 2013
I will stick solely to the OP's question...

It makes sense to install a propane shutoff cock valve near the junction of the feed line to the heater. I am very, very touchy about what kind of supply line I use for the heater. Routing the line so it doesn't get in the way is one of my primary objectives. I have had to have custom LPG hoses made up with crimp 90 degree elbow fittings at a hose place in order to make a clean and neat installation.

Best of fortune with your installation. You're going to love it! The pot bellied stove effect on a cold day is priceless!
mockturtle
Explorer II
Apr 24, 2013
Yes, that does make good sense to have a shutoff valve and I plan to have that added.
ICamel
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013
I also love my Olympian Wave-6 Heater. Started out with a Mr. Buddy Heater and upgraded this spring to the Wave-6 and have used it on 4 camping trips so far with it working flawlessly in temperatures down to the low 30's overnight. I chose to carry a 5 gallon exterior propane tank and installed a 12 foot hose from the exterior into the interior via an existing hole in the floor of the 5th wheel trailer. I just had to remove the sealant at this existing hole, insert the hose through the hole and then re-seal it. the outside portion of the hose is wrapped at the tank connection end with a plastic bag to protect against the elements during travel and this end is also secured to the frame with a Velcro strap during travel. I keep at least 4 windows cracked open and both roof vents cracked open when operating the Wave-6. Inside temperature has varied from 60 to 70 degrees upon getting out of bed in the morning, and this is on the 3000 BTU low setting. This fall I may have to turn it up to the 4500 BTU setting when the temps get into the 20's overnight.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013
When I chop a hole in the side and install a fan for the stove and oven is when I will start to consider venting something that burns a twentieth of the gas through a catalyst. Stove burners and oven are RAW flames.
bigfootford
Nomad II
Aug 17, 2013
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I will stick solely to the OP's question...

It makes sense to install a propane shutoff cock valve near the junction of the feed line to the heater. I am very, very touchy about what kind of supply line I use for the heater. Routing the line so it doesn't get in the way is one of my primary objectives. I have had to have custom LPG hoses made up with crimp 90 degree elbow fittings at a hose place in order to make a clean and neat installation.

I installed an excess flow valve right after the cutoff valve for the Wave:

http://www.brasscraft.com/products.aspx?id=214

Jim
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013
Smart!

Sometimes things that are portable, get too portable...
RJsfishin
Explorer
Aug 18, 2013
If you don't learn to do stuff like this yourself, it could be a real challenge to find someone to do it, and it could be very expensive'

I been plumbing Cat heaters in RV for many years, and I know what works.
The very first one in 1975, I plumbed w/ autoparts fuel line hose, never a problem. The later ones, including 2 Cats in my current RV, I plumbed w/ clear vinyl hose from Ace hardware. Either type hose is indestructible by propane, and will handle 10x the pressure, Anymore, I even use good quality zip ties for all clamps. Venting ?? Do what you think you have to do, but I don't even think about venting. But one thing is for sure, if I thought I had to leave 4 windows and 2 vents cracked, I'd dump the Cat heater first !
But getting back to OP question, keep looking.
RoyB
Explorer II
Aug 18, 2013
I used the Mr Buddy heater alot in my tent camping days and in my off-road POPUP trailer as a back-up heat source. My spot in my POPUP trailer is high on a shelf and right under a cracked open fantastic vent fan.

There is no way I would use the Mr Buddy heater is a closed up trailer. Like you I had no problem with my tents as they all have big built-in leaks with all the fabric areas involved.

The CAT HEATERS can be vented without alot of extra work. I am so fed up with my propane furnace I am just about ready to permanently install a CAT HEATER myself. Consider these photos how one guy installed one along with venting...

You certainly don't want to wake up dead one morning...

Roy Ken