Changing Atwood water heater plug to brass

Should work, as long as it doesn't get plugged up with scale and calcium when you go to drain it. If your water source isn't too hard, it should be fine. If it does get plugged, have a wrench handy.

I replaced the plastic plug with brass fittings and a 3/8" ball valve 17 years ago for that vary reason. No problems and still working just fine. Also makes it real easy to blow the crud and sediment out of the bottom of the tank

We just had a thread on that, where ISTR the pros said it was a bad idea due to brass and aluminum issues. It sure is a PITA getting that plastic plug in and out though.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29997558/gotomsg/29997635.cfm#29997635

Interesting discussion. Seemed like it was mostly about anode rod/plug combo, or not. The one quote, taken from the "Atwood Manual", by mobewan(?) made no reference to not using a brass plug/valve fitting, just said no need to replace an anode rod, probably because they don't have one, as far as I know. The rest of the nay sayers were the usual gaggle of "experts w/opinions".
Do what works for you. If you put the brass fitting in carefully, you'll never need to remove/replace it, and your "delicate aluminum threads" will be safe forever. :B

If you install the brass plug with the petcock, how are you going to flush the tank? You still have to remove the plug. The tank should be flushed on a regular basis to remove the deposits that settle on the bottom of the tank. Atwood installed a plastic plug for a reason, not to be cheap

I am considering a brass plug, as my plastic plug and delicate Alu threads are leaking, even with Teflon tape on the plastic plug

Going to follow this thread

Maybe some pipe dope on a new plastic plug ?

I do drain once a year , and would prefer for it to be removable

The biggest issue with using the brass plug is it's harder than aluminum and you could damage the tank threads if you're not careful. Some people worry too much that the brass can also cause galvanic corrosion with the tank. Galvanic corrosion is a problem when you have metals that are too dissimilar causing them to react with each other.

Although brass and aluminum are dissimilar metals they are closer together on the galvanic chart and should not react too badly with each other. Steel and aluminum are very far apart on the galvanic chart and will react badly with each other. This can be seen by the white chalky deposits when using stainless steel fasteners with aluminum material. Steel and aluminum are the worst.

As far as galvanic corrosion the Atwood tanks also have a bronze relief valve, a gas/temperature control valve which is made out of pot metal with a copper probe that extends into the tank and whatever the material the fittings that screw into the water inlet and water outlet of the tank are made of, so over all the brass is not going to be that harmful. The tank already has dissimilar metals threaded into it that don't cause a serious problem.

For a long time I had a brass nipple with a brass ball valve screwed into an Atwood Tank with no ill effects. Someone on The Forum had a wire braided hose screwed into the tank drain hole that had a valve on the opposite end of the hose and it seemed to work fine for them. They were able to lay the hose over the door on the water heater so the valve could drain directly to the ground.

You are best off using the plastic plugs if available but as long as you're careful getting the threads lined up brass will be okay, just don't crank down too hard when you install it.

you can use plastic nipple and a plastic valve.

I've had a brass plug in my water heater for over 15 years. I remove it after every trip to drain the water heater. Never had an issue. I had more problems with the OEM plug. That's why i now have a brass one.

The brass plug will work. for a while. but from chemistry class you should recall that dissimilar metals can react with each other badly and that is why the plug is NYLON. NOW there is an option. I think it's CPCV but please do not quote me on that. it's rated for the temps you find there. I've tried it with "Mixed" results (sometimes it seals sometimes it leaks) You use a nipple made of this stuff. then a 1/2 inch quarter turn valve then a piece of any pipe you like (Irrigation plastic pipe works very well or a brass plug

The nipple goes to the tank
The valve goes on the nipple
The plug goes in the valve's other end (Brass to brass) most of the time
When you drain the tank you first remove the plug, then screw in the plastic irrigation pipe (Cheapest **** you can get for this job) oh say 6-8 Inches long (this hauls the drain water past the side of the RV in case you wonder) then STAND CLEAR the drain and open valve.

First time I did this it worked very well
No joy since,