Circuit board that fits

If the board fits the space you have, you just need to get some insulated circuit board "stand offs"..

Drill new holes in the electrical box matching up with the holes in the new board.

Something like these?



Found those HERE

If you can dig around might be able to find insulated standoffs in different lengths and even threaded screw mounts instead of snap ins.

What Power Panel is that DC Fuse panel out of??

The new one I got is just a little too big. I'd rather buy something that fits better so I can close the lid.

This was the part I replaced originally, but accidentally broke the circuit board when I was working on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A34G94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That looks like an OLD Magnetec 12 volt converter 12 volt fuse panel. Now it is a Parallax Power Supply 7345 model. Yours must be more than 20 years old. You will have to adapt or drill the correct mount holes and use nylon washers to stand off from shorting the back metal mount. If mine, I would line it up on the existing metal mount back and mark the mount screw holes and then use 1/4 head inch self tapper screws. Doug

http://web.archive.org/web/20200228080803/http://parallaxpower.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8194/2018/09/archived_diagnostic_flowchart_7300_series.pdf

That's it! Thanks for your help! Any suggestions on which distribution panel to buy? I don't want to replace the whole converter.

dougrainer wrote:
That looks like an OLD Magnetec 12 volt converter 12 volt fuse panel. Now it is a Parallax Power Supply 7345 model. Yours must be more than 20 years old. You will have to adapt or drill the correct mount holes and use nylon washers to stand off from shorting the back metal mount. If mine, I would line it up on the existing metal mount back and mark the mount screw holes and then use 1/4 head inch self tapper screws. Doug

http://web.archive.org/web/20200228080803/http://parallaxpower.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8194/2018/09/archived_diagnostic_flowchart_7300_series.pdf

Is the picture you posted the new circuit board you bought to replace the broken board?

I found this one that looks similar other than it has two more circuits..



found HERE that one is for Magnetek/Paralax 6300/ 7300 series converter panel.

You might be find exact replacement if you search for the name and model of converter panel box you have.

However, your fuse block may have been discontinued and if that is the case you may need to use retrofit fuse panels which will not be a direct fit and will require some modifications to fit.

Barring the searching, you could try contacting BEST CONVERTER

Otherwise I do have several other suggestions, there are add on ATC fuse panels you can use if you have the space and depth..



These are nice since they can be surface mounted directly to metal with no electrical isolation needed..





In the case of converter use, you use one of the fuse positions for the converter fuse and the stud would be the battery connection.

That one is a Blue Seas so it is a bit expensive.. Found HERE

Another version..



If you need a negative termination you would need to do some digging but there may some of those types of fuse blocks that offer a negative termination also.

Looks like for a 6300. No RP fuses. the 7300 has the RP fuses on the Dc panel. Also the 6300 has the "split" for taking three wires (two positives-red and blue) while the 7300 uses just two (one blue pos)

I don't know how you would handle the split using a 7300's on a 6300. The blue pos goes on the top middle there, so the red goes in the pos set-screw lug. I guess the RP fuses would just be gravy.

BFL13 wrote:
Looks like for a 6300. No RP fuses. the 7300 has the RP fuses on the Dc panel. Also the 6300 has the "split" for taking three wires (two positives-red and blue) while the 7300 uses just two (one blue pos)

I don't know how you would handle the split using a 7300's on a 6300. The blue pos goes on the top middle there, so the red goes in the pos set-screw lug. I guess the RP fuses would just be gravy.

RP (Reverse polarity) fuses (they are for protecting the converter from reverse polarity) can be done separate of the fuse panel or just use one or two of the positions on the fuse panel depending on converter amperage and mark it converter.

Panels with RP fuse positions connect one side of the fuse to the panel buss feeding all the other fuses any way.

Easy peazy.

Yes, but the issue is the 6300 'split'-- DC fuses of the 6300 between ones that need the battery as filter and the others that don't. You want to put the pos wires in the right places. if you use a 6300 panel with a deck mount converter that has its own RP fuses, you jumper the panel's two pos terminals now that all fuses are getting clean power.

Don't know for sure any of this applies to the OP's choices--why that panel doesn't fit. Maybe it is not even a 6300!

BFL13 wrote:
Yes, but the issue is the 6300 'split'-- DC fuses of the 6300 between ones that need the battery as filter and the others that don't. You want to put the pos wires in the right places. if you use a 6300 panel with a deck mount converter that has its own RP fuses, you jumper the panel's two pos terminals now that all fuses are getting clean power.

Don't know for sure any of this applies to the OP's choices--why that panel doesn't fit. Maybe it is not even a 6300!

OP changed the converter section..

jimdmorrison wrote:
The new one I got is just a little too big. I'd rather buy something that fits better so I can close the lid.

This was the part I replaced originally, but accidentally broke the circuit board when I was working on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A34G94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CLICKY LINK FROM ABOVE

Pix of converter the OP installed..



A WFCO WF-8955 3 stage Switching converter which does not require a battery for filtering or regulating..

OP can use ANY fuse block that they can figure out how to fit into the convert box space allocated for the DC fuses..