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Class A electrical system setup - no dealer guidance

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
When I bought my first RV, a Class A Diesel MH, I received no guidance or instruction on using, setting up, or understanding the meters and display for setting up the electrical system. While I did receive manuals for various systems, real-life application and understanding just didn't relate well, and I simply had to guess, or ignore things I still did not understand.

I'm speaking of the solar & internal systems set up controls, housed (in my rig) behind a cabinet door at the front of my RV.

A recent power outage forced me to stay the night in my rig, and though it was not plugged in to power, the batteries, charged during the day by 480 watts of solar, generating about 26A, appeared to have enough voltage, at 14.2V, to easily last through the night. They did not.

Sometime in the night, about 4 hours later, the internal power shut down, the only things requiring power being the microwave display, and the clock radio in the bedroom, both of which went black. Checking the display up front, the meter read 11.6V, the red "fault" light was on, and the inverter would not come back on. Fired up the generator, and soon noted the meter showed 12.2-12.4V and rising.

As the manual isn't well written (IMO), I could only surmise the system setup included a setting that automatically shuts down power, to save the batteries, when voltage sinks to a given level. But there are other settings, the nature of which remain foreign to me, which likely also have some bearing on what happens, how, and when. And I'm baffled as to how they relate, and what my needs would require, when it comes to adjusting the settings properly.

A recent suspicion had been that my batteries don't seem to be lasting as long as they ought to, for it seems to me that they should easily provide power throughout the night, with such minimal amperage needs as noted above. Because I had recently neglected monitoring them, the batteries, while not completely dry, were damp, and all cells needed fresh distilled water. A month later, i had them checked, and the service tech noted they are in good shape. I still have suspicions that the batteries are not, as I was informed, in good condition (my rig is a 2017, bought off a dealer at the end of the 2017 calendar year, original batteries).

I remain baffled by the system, ignorant of proper setup, having had much frustration in managing it, and setting it up properly, so that it works as well as it is designed to do. The manual is less than clear to me, and I feel like I need a knowledgeable experienced tech to walk me through each step, setting, and consequence, impractical though that may be.

I'm not sure the help I need can be found here, but needed to vent, with perhaps a small hope someone might offer perspective, if not guidance, on how to proceed.

Thanks!
21 REPLIES 21

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all... this has been an illuminating experience... will keep you posted

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Z-Peller wrote:
When you are plugged in to shore power most rigs have a "converter" wired into the system that keeps your batteries charged. When you are using "inverter" for 110v power, you must switch off the "converter" breaker on 110v breaker panel, otherwise you have the "inverter" using up battery power running the "converter" which is a battery charger. Big time loosing proposition. Will run your batteries down very rapidly. Sounds like this is what is happening to you in addition to other things mentioned....


With the magnum inverter/charger in his diesel motorhome, all of that is done automatically and there is nothing to worry about. The "charger" is integral to the magnum and operates to charge the batteries only when plugged into shore power.
Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

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Z-Peller
Explorer
Explorer
When you are plugged in to shore power most rigs have a "converter" wired into the system that keeps your batteries charged. When you are using "inverter" for 110v power, you must switch off the "converter" breaker on 110v breaker panel, otherwise you have the "inverter" using up battery power running the "converter" which is a battery charger. Big time loosing proposition. Will run your batteries down very rapidly. Sounds like this is what is happening to you in addition to other things mentioned....
Bill..
2017 Bigfoot 10.4 camper...2016 GMC 3500 4x4 Xcab Duramax Dually...

houstonstroker
Explorer
Explorer
When boondocking the best way to preserve battery power is to run everything you can (fridge and water heater) on propane. It might be that your entire coach is inverted. That means everything running on 120 volts AC goes through an inverter. So if off grid and you need anything requiring 120 volts AC then yes your inverter needs to be on. But turning off your inverter would still let anything requiring 12 volts DC to operate. All depends on how the coach was set up.
2016 Dynamax Force HD Super C

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
As an aside, beware the clock radio might not keep proper time on a MSW inverter. I am curious whether it would. The clock in the MW is reported not to keep time on MSW, but that might be a different thing.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, Doug, that's the instruction manual I have... I understand a little more, a little better, each time I read it....

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
obiwancanoli wrote:
larry cad wrote:
obiwancanoli wrote:
larry cad wrote:
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.

It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.

Lot's of good advice here.



I have an RV style fridge - shore powered or propane - a Magnum Standard Remote Control, and a Magnum ME Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter


The magnum can be conveniently wired to your Onan Quiet Diesel Generator to operate in "auto gen start" mode which will start your genny automatically if your batteries get low. You have the option of setting the "low" voltage where it starts. This is all done on the magnum operator panel, the one with the rotating know.


I believe I can set the AGS from inside the RV, though there is also an Auto-Gen unit/control box inside one of the external bays... need to investigate that better...


Magnum has 2 owners manuals. One for the Magnum Inverter and one for the Remote operation. The module in the storage bay is REQUIRED for the Auto Genset function. You do indeed set up the Auto Genset from inside the RV on the Magnum remote. This should be your remote instructions. Doug

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/manuals/owners/64-0003-Rev-G-ME-RC_Web.pdf

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
larry cad wrote:
obiwancanoli wrote:
larry cad wrote:
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.

It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.

Lot's of good advice here.



I have an RV style fridge - shore powered or propane - a Magnum Standard Remote Control, and a Magnum ME Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter


The magnum can be conveniently wired to your Onan Quiet Diesel Generator to operate in "auto gen start" mode which will start your genny automatically if your batteries get low. You have the option of setting the "low" voltage where it starts. This is all done on the magnum operator panel, the one with the rotating know.


I believe I can set the AGS from inside the RV, though there is also an Auto-Gen unit/control box inside one of the external bays... need to investigate that better...

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
obiwancanoli wrote:
larry cad wrote:
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.

It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.

Lot's of good advice here.



I have an RV style fridge - shore powered or propane - a Magnum Standard Remote Control, and a Magnum ME Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter


The magnum can be conveniently wired to your Onan Quiet Diesel Generator to operate in "auto gen start" mode which will start your genny automatically if your batteries get low. You have the option of setting the "low" voltage where it starts. This is all done on the magnum operator panel, the one with the rotating know.
Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

Our Travel Blog

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
In your owner's bag should be one for the inverter. It is the inverter (Which is also likely your battery charger) that shut down due to low voltage. They do that.

First you should locate the Inverter and any circuit breakers on it. or alternatively the sub panel it feeds if such exists. You WILL need to know about these.

If you do not have the manual for it then note the make and model and google
Make model manual

And download one.. In fact even if you DO have the manual download a copy.

Same for most other appliances and stuff you may need to know about includign jacks. Battery control system. and Slideouts.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
larry cad wrote:
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.

It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.

Lot's of good advice here.



I have an RV style fridge - shore powered or propane - a Magnum Standard Remote Control, and a Magnum ME Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.

It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.

Lot's of good advice here.
Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

Our Travel Blog

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
obiwancanoli wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
Seems you were running on inverter for your 120v needs and that ran the batteries down enough so the inverter shut down. There would still be enough battery to run the usual 12v things -lights, fans, etc.

When off-grid, you need to "power manage" what the inverter is running so the batteries can keep up. Put the fridge on propane, WH on propane, limit use of 120v appliances. When not watching it, unplug the TV set, don't just turn it "off", which leaves it on. All kinds of tricks to get by longer before you need to recharge the batteries.

At some stage you do need to recharge them, no big deal, but best if they can be done during the day instead of at 3am! ๐Ÿ™‚


My rig is a 2017 Newmar Ventana LE.

My understanding was that if I needed to run ANYTHING - i.e., my lights, tv, clock radio, microwave display - that the inverter needed to be "on"... the fridge does run on propane when not plugged into shore power, as does the WH.


Yes, you really need to go to a NEWMAR dealer and have him explain the system. The Inverter should NEVER--NEVER be ON when on solar power or even boondocking, unless you have a need for the 120 appliances that run THRU the Inverter. You do NOT need to keep the Microwave clock ON. Lights are straight 12 volt and do NOT need the Inverter ON. The clock radio and the TV's do need the Inverter ON when boondocking. When on Genset or Shore Power, you do NOT need the Inverter ON. It has pass thru 120 power so it is not supposed to be ON. Your solar system CANNOT keep up with the 12 volt draw having the Inverter ON draws. Turn the Inverter ON when you need those 120 appliances ON when Boondocking and then once done turn the Inverter OFF. Doug