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Converter starts/runs for a few seconds then stops

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
Is it because it’s cold here in the frozen Canadian climate?
It’s a WFCO 55 amp.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek
23 REPLIES 23

SV_K
Explorer
Explorer
Good info here and sensible approach to manage LFP’s with “conventional” chargers.

Just wanted to add that unless you need those few extra amps there is no reason to fill the LFP to the top. That is one of their benefits, it is fine to partially fill an LFP. In fact, not taking them to 100% SOC will extend the charge cycles beyond their ratings. Nor do they require “X” voltage to charge. Set my controller to 13.8v yesterday and the LFP was very close to, if not full, by the time the charging stopped.

After 7yrs. of using lithium I now view them as similar to a water tank. Doesn’t matter how fast or slow you fill them, nor how full it is as long as there is water in the tank you’ll be happy.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
ivbinconned wrote:
So am I to conclude that one must go all in. If I want to go lithium then get lithium converter. If not then normal basic converter?


No. Any charger or converter that does 14.4-14.6 will do and you can put a timer on the 120v side if you will be away and set it to float when you get back.

Guys use their charge wizard with the PD converter which makes it do 14.4v for four hours then it drops to 13.6. Same drill as for Wet Batts.

The PowerMax LK model converters can be set to 14.x and there it stays till you change it, so that would need a timer if you will be away when and after the LFP BMS finishes its balance routine. You then set it to 13.6 or just not do a float. It also has a regular three stage automatic, but the time at 14.6 is 1/2 hour, so not enough time for getting a bank to full before it drops to Float.

Best thing would be a portable battery charger with amp choices and batt type choices. If the LFP is under 41F, you must charge it at fewer amps, but your converter is only one amps "size". Portable chargers can be set to 10/20/40 amps and you can pick AGM for 14.4v instead of Wet at 14.8 volts so you can use the Gel for the LFP.

It is bogus to say you need a special charger for LFP. Seems to be a thing that LFP salesmen say to extract more money from you than they got already for the LFPs! 😞
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
So am I to conclude that one must go all in. If I want to go lithium then get lithium converter. If not then normal basic converter?
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
ivbinconned wrote:
The Dynamic line up does not have one that does both acid and lithium.
Progressive Dynamics does have a "Lithium" converter and some have a "Lithium" jumper to change the charging pattern. However all this does is to lock the converter into the 14.6 charging mode continuously. This is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers. You would have to charge and then disconnect. Fine if you use a generator and are present while charging finishes. Not so good to just plug in and go out for the day.

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
The Dynamic line up does not have one that does both acid and lithium.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
If the batteries are at 11.x after weeks of plugged in then one of the following conditions exist in linier ordder
Shore power failure
ATS (Mostly a motor home issue) Failure
Breaker tripped. or screws so loose in breaker box no contact is made (Seen it)
Bad converter
Blown Reverse Polarity Fuse
Batteries not connected and self discharging.

EDIT since your WFCO is a deck mount. if it's truly bad then I recommend progressive Dynamics 9200 line.. match last two digits of model as close as you can to what you have now. IE WFCO xx60 replace with 9260
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
The portable is a smart charger. I watched it for a few minutes and it was operating normal.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just put the portable on yesterday.
I’ll check it tomorrow and report.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I assume the batteries charged normal on the small portable charger and are holding 12.5+ volts since.

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
WA if you read my 2nd and 3rd posts you will note that the trailer has been plugged it for a couple weeks....and was now testing at 11.5 volts.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
ivbinconned wrote:
Is it because it’s cold here in the frozen Canadian climate?
It’s a WFCO 55 amp.


How do you know it stops? Most modern converters are rather silent. about he only thing that makes noise is the thermostatically Controlled fan. It will generally start when you first plug in (part of the power on self test) but then shut down cause... in your own words IT IS COLD.

A volt meter will tell you if the converter is converting... The basic rule is Not working = <13<13 equals working But depending on many things it might take a bit to come up.

(That's less than 13 not working actually 12.6 or less) and greater (13.6 is not uncommon) = working. more than 14 = bulk mode
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
ivbinconned wrote:
What’s the difference there between the two 60 amp ones. The one says “hardwired”.
That’s not explained.
Is it compatible with lead acid as well?
Hardwired would be connected to a J-Box with romex. Not hard wired would have a 5-15 plug to go into a standard wall outlet.

Yes lead-acid is fine. I would probably get a Progressive dynamics for lead-acid as they have a longer absorption time. The smaller Boondocker (45 amp) would be slightly better with lead-acid as it will shift to normal (13.6v) at a higher state of charge.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
ivbinconned wrote:
What’s the difference there between the two 60 amp ones. The one says “hardwired”.
That’s not explained.
Is it compatible with lead acid as well?


You want the other 60 that has a plug in 120v cable , not the hardwire version if you get the Boondocker. He has two versions see his lettering explanation for the models. The Boondocker is a PowerMax, re-labelled. BoatandRV seems to be a better price and free shipping, but not to Canada sadly.

If you can get them to send it via post office it can save a fee compared with the other couriers AFAIK.

Yes, it works with any type of battery. You have to do the adjustments to the voltage for that mode, or you can just leave it in automatic three-stage for your Wets.

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
What’s the difference there between the two 60 amp ones. The one says “hardwired”.
That’s not explained.
Is it compatible with lead acid as well?
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek