Daly BMS gone crazy..Update Opinions

[jaycocreek]

I was charging my 120ah lifepo4 battery yesterday and came in for lunch and saw it shut down..I figured it hit the 3.65 volt cell limit and shut down,I went out to check it and saw this on the Bluetooth for the BMS and it is locked up tight(The Bluetooth BMS)..I can't change anything and it only shows this on the screen..



The guy I bought it from first told me to reset it in the settings,so I did and he was supposed to send me the numbers/parameters to put in but he instead says he is sending my picture to the manufacturer for there take on it..After resetting I tried to just put in Lifepo4 as the battery type but it won't take it..

Hmm

[full_mosey]

jaycocreek wrote:
...

We are offering all customers that have a failing Bluetooth 2 choices: (1) Total Refund. (2) $50 rebate by PayPal.
...

If they mean Total Refund then take it. If they want your unit sent back, they should send you a prepaid return container at no cost to you.

Do you still want a drop-in?

The question is, what do you know now that would make you better able to choose another drop-in?

HTH;
John

[3_tons]

jaycocreek wrote:
The R&D guy gave me a call a few minutes ago and I am quite happy with the call and all the questions he answered and his suggestions and opinions..He also explained how the bluetooth being in a sealed battery would be a pain to update/fix or replace..Also in warranties with bluetooth failing way before the actual battery..

I do go to DIY solar forums(will Prowse's) and joined so I could see downloads/graphs and pictures but I have not posted..Don't want to seem to amateuristic but you guys already know..(laffin)

Thanks and I do enjoy the back and forths here because there is a lot to be learned for someone who is learning lithium for the good of the battery..

I took the $50 to put towards a shunt or charger..

No doubt your comfort level has to be a consideration in whatever becomes your ultimate choice...

To me the battery’s built-in bluetooth seems more like low cost marketing gimmickry, so it makes sense that it won’t detract from the battery itself... If you were to later add another battery (think, of a like kind!!) I’d say you’d gain a better overall system appraisal by using a more central shunt based meter with bluetooth...

3 tons

[pianotuna]

jaycocreek wrote:


What's your opinion?

RETURN IT

[jaycocreek]

The R&D guy gave me a call a few minutes ago and I am quite happy with the call and all the questions he answered and his suggestions and opinions..He also explained how the bluetooth being in a sealed battery would be a pain to update/fix or replace..Also in warranties with bluetooth failing way before the actual battery..

I do go to DIY solar forums(will Prowse's) and joined so I could see downloads/graphs and pictures but I have not posted..Don't want to seem to amateuristic but you guys already know..(laffin)

Thanks and I do enjoy the back and forths here because there is a lot to be learned for someone who is learning lithium for the good of the battery..

I took the $50 to put towards a shunt or charger..

[BFL13]

The big lesson I learned buying one 100AH expensive battery that would do the high amp draw I needed it for, was that it turned out that 100AH was not enough for a longer time off grid just running ordinary RV loads.

The trouble was to get a second one of the same brand/type was even more expensive, and in my case, with two batts, now the "high" draw was only half as "high", so i could have just got two ordinary batteries and saved all that money.

So, it could happen with LFPs too if you only got one 100AH and had to get more AH of a bank later. Can you do that with a second cheaper battery not an LFP and mix them? Can you mix LFPs of different brands?

That is why I suggested returning that one in case you have to make any second one the same, and if you don't want a second one of those. Starting over, you can get one you wouldn't mind getting a second one of.

If you did get two, how to monitor them is a question others will know the answer to, or you could get a bigger AH batt in the first place with just one BMS if you might need more AH in the future.

[3_tons]

It depends on how adventurous you are and how trusting you now are with ‘brand x’ (whichever it is?)...I have a good 200a/h drop-in (cylindrical-cell) that has proven to fit all my needs without a glitch (bluetooth is via Victron monitor), but I think it could be fun to build one’s own and maybe even double the capacity due to the cost savings. For those who may need it, extra capacity might even make a 12v or 120v t-stat controlled battery blanket (Amazon) a viable option (??). A quality BMS would seem to be key...

Keep us posted!

3 tons

[Itinerant1]

I'm for one of the guys that built their own to start a thread with how "they" did it or the next person doing it to start one. Some folks don't venture from this site to other sites that answer alot of the noise that gets produced and may cause confusion to new readers. 😉

[StirCrazy]

personaly I would take the total refund take some of that money and build your own with a better quality BMS. that is if you can aford to wait for the shipping of the cells. you could have a 280 AH single battery with a quality BMS and active balancing for less than you paid. but if you need the battery right away take the 50 bucks.

Steve

[time2roll]

If the battery perfectly suits your needs it is OK to take the $50. But that will not pay for a monitor so if that is what you wanted I would be inclined to return it.

I am looking to build my own battery at this point so I am a bit biased toward that.

[BFL13]

Who pays for the shipping to return it for the total refund?

What if you decide you want a bigger battery bank once you get going with this one battery?

Is there a battery monitor you like with Bluetooth? If so, what about getting one of those using the $50 to help pay for it, and use that for one LFP you have now or the whole bank if you get a second battery?

If they pay the shipping for the total refund, my choice would be to do that and start over. You can still get a second batt later but now of the same brand.

I don't know how you monitor both batts in the bank if just one has a working Bluetooth BMS or do you need a monitor even if they both have working read outs in order to monitor the bank as a whole? Or do you swap back and forth with your phone?

[Itinerant1]

If the Bluetooth option is what you're after get the refund. There are enough dropins out on the market with reviews by folks on this forum and other forums or just get adventurous and build your own.
So many options....decisions, decisions. 😉

[jaycocreek]

I guess this is the final update from the seller:

This glitch is entirely to do with the Bluetooth and not the BMS. The BMS is set at the default settings which are best for the battery. So it will perform as it was designed to.

We are offering all customers that have a failing Bluetooth 2 choices: (1) Total Refund. (2) $50 rebate by PayPal.

Until we figure out the revamp on the Bluetooth we will not offer this feature with the Cased Batteries with this option, instead we will program them and reset the password.

Let me know what you want to do.

Sorry again for the inconveniences.

What is your opinion of this e-mail..

1-Do you think the BMS is okay as he stated?

I guess we never really know if a BMS is okay buying a cased battery until something happens,hence Will P tearing down batteries with claims of cold cut off that do not work..But I haven't seen one with a totally failed BMS yet leading to a completely destroyed battery..

What's your opinion?

[jaycocreek]

time2roll wrote:
I would start asking about a replacement battery to have the features promised and paid for.

I missed a phone call from him last night and he missed one from me today..The ball is rolling for some kind of answer to the broken bluetooth..

I did learn that both the Noco Genius and Victron IP67 or 65 both charge at 14.2 volts on the lithium setting,something I needed to know for in my search for another larger charger..I am happy with the battery so far and the cold temp cut off is a plus,if it works..LOL

In looking for a Lifepo4 battery,there are a ton of them in the $500 dollar category,some Will Prowse has reviewed and trashed and a few other no names...The market is getting flooded by cheap(inexpensive) batteries..I certainly see the point in building your own,now..

I actually want to keep this particular battery if possible and maybe get a smart shunt to make up for the lack of what was supposed to be with this one..I also want the distributor to make it right in what was advertised and promised..

They have completely changed there website and description of the battery I bought not to include smart anything..In doing that I assume the smart Bluetooth cannot be fixed and mine was not the only one to fail..

They also sell a bunch of different types of prismatic cells and BMS's to roll your own..

Thanks

[StirCrazy]

time2roll wrote:
I would start asking about a replacement battery to have the features promised and paid for.

yup me to. but I would be demanding one for a exchage or my money back.

Steve

[full_mosey]

"I bought this particular battery was the smart Bluetooth and the cold cut off,so we'll see how it plays out..."
============================================

Those are reasons to choose a particular BMS, not a LFP battery.

I am doing a DIY. I chose LFP because I am retiring a 12yo 155AH 100lb AGM. I will soon have a 280Ah 50lb battery that is nearly twice the energy at half the weight. It will cost less than the 100AH drop-ins.

Go ahead and continue to get your LFP education by reading drop-in documentation, and you will continue to be confused.

HTH;
John