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DeOxIT D100L An Opinion

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
DeOxIT uses a code for its labeling that I don't particularly care for.

It's products that contain 100% of the product's active ingredient include the number 100 on the label. This is true of the red CLEANER and the blue PROTECTORATE.

So if you aren't aware of the "code" you may end up with inadequate cleaning or protectorate results.

Years ago I conducted a test with a brand-new 100-amp aluminum bus bar and an eight gauge bridge wire made of copper. But the wire had no insulation. Its length was 100% pure new penny copper.

One end of the naked copper was treated with the blue preservative, the other end was left bare.

Then both ends were assembled to the aluminum bar. Like all aluminum used for electrical conductor, the bar had tin plating.

I placed the assembly outside on the patio under a roof.

Almost a year passed (10+ months)

The tin plating dulled but the untreated copper turned brown and green.

I unfastened the DeOxit side and connected it to my carbon load tester. I passed a hundred amps from end of copper to the far end of the bar. An 8-D battery served as the load power. in series with the circuit. The bridge was 1 gauge jumper cable 18" long with new copper clamps.

After 15 seconds I switched off the load and promptly gave myself a second-degree burn when I pinched the untreated side of the buss

Now adorned with 2 band-aids I tried the same test on the treated side of the bar and it was near room temperature.

I'm not finished I laid a trap...

The second length of the cable lay beside the first. BOTH ends of that cable had been treated with NOX hardware store electrical cable and left to fate unconnected.

I wiped the ends of the cable and found the copper was not new-penny shiny. It was dull brown.

I performed the amperage load test.

When I heard the NOX sizzling. I stopped the test.

I did other tests that summer when thunderheads poured rain.

Tinned ends did exceptionally well. But not as good as DeOxit. On the more subtle tests, I used an IR to verify temps.

Conclusion:

  • Utterly bare conductors are a loser
  • Nox treatment is better
  • Tinning the wire ends with 63/37 solder is better yet
  • But the DeOxit kicked butt over any other combination
  • Thermocouples do not lie
  • And using DeOxit is far easier than any other method of protection
  • Do you actually need the increase in protection between pure cosmoline and DeOxit?
  • Good question
  • Did your rig come from the factory with cosmoline
  • Never have seen that
1 REPLY 1

Wild_Bill_888
Explorer
Explorer
Copper wire can be soldered to aluminum bus bar for a permanent very low resistance connection.

Sand clean the aluminum surface.

Tin the busbar with a thin film of fluxless low temperature aluminum solder.

Melt a thick layer of 60/40 solder into the molten aluminum solder.

Fan the copper strands out to cover the prepared area and tin them.

Reheat the busbar and melt the copper wire into the prepared surface.