Display for PWM Controller?

[CVD]

After years of thinking about it, I’m about to get a solar setup. I live 5 minutes from SolarBlvd in Norco, so I will get most the stuff from them. The plan is to use the 140w Solar Cynergy panel ($175) and Morningstar Sunsaver SS-10 controller ($45-). I’ll also get the Z mounts and cable from them (after I measure to determine how much cable I need). This setup should keep my 4 6v Sam’s Club batteries topped off while in storage, and give me some replenishment when on multi-day trips.

My question is regarding a display for the controller. SolorBlvd packages this panel with a Phocos controller and Phocos CMM display that supposedly shows voltage and load current (is this the same as draw?). However, I’ve read negative reviews on both Phocos devices and positive reviews on the Morningstar controller.

If I go with the Morningstar controller and hide it behind a cabinet, what sort of display should I get? Keep in mind this entire setup will be approx $260-; I don‘t want to spend hundreds on a display.

BTW – currently, I use a simple $20- volt meter that is plugged into one of the TV power outlets. I check it every morning. 12.3 to 12.6 is good; 12.2 or less means I need to run the generator sometime that day.

[Old___Slow]

RJsfishin wrote:
Ever heard of ebay,.....all for 15 bucks

I disagree w/ others. If your 1 of 2 panels quit, how are you going to know that w/o an ammeter ?

CVD,

I too like the folks at SolarBlvd. One dollar per watt ain't to bad.

RJ-the fisherman,

Because you posted this picture in a post some time ago, I ordered what you show. Hope that is okay?

The 15a Solar controller was $15 on Ebay at the time I ordered.

The 'Duel Panel V/A meter w/shunt was $16.99 at the time I ordered.

Now JR, where did you get that nice BLUE cable (panel to controller?) or is that maybe blue tape?

Thanks for all the help I find in your posts.

O&S
Floyd

[CVD]

Thanks for the help everyone. I just bought the 140W Solar Cynergy panel for only $139- (it had been $175 just a couple days ago). Will pick up the panel and Morningstar SS-10 tomorrow, then start measuring for cable and plan out this project over the next couple days.

[Almot]

CVD wrote:
OK, what do I look for in mounts for a fiberglass RV roof?

Check the list of completed solar projects here at the forum.

It's not just the roof material, it's the brackets shape. What you need is an L-shaped bracket, like a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle. You bolt it to the rivet nut in panel side. OTH, with Z-bracket you attach it to panel bottom first and then to the roof, and to remove the panel you have to rip the bracket foot off the roof - not a good idea.

The foot of the L is attached to the roof and this is where roof material matters. If flat fiberglass, some people took chances with VHB double-sided tape. If crowned - well nut is the way to go, and it would work on a flat roof too. Some drove tapping screws in, because there were metal braces underneath. With well nuts you have to make sure not to hit the braces of course.

[Snowman9000]

CVD, for a small controller, I think you'll find the Sunsaver does all those things you want. Make sure to mount it near the batteries, in the same temperature area, if possible. On cold days it will bump up the voltage, and knock it down on warm days, which is great. I've seen 14.8v around 50F. That's good and will safely speed your charging.

[westend]

mena661 wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
I should have known that Mena got a Victron instead of a Trimetric because it costs less, and not as claimed, because it does some weird Peukert thing! 🙂

The secret's out! :B Almot, I wouldn't rate the Victron below the Trimetric in features. It has features the Trimetric doesn't like the aforementioned Peukert exponent setting (think Lithium Ion...is there Peukert?) and various alarm settings. I liked the small physical size too. And it was cheaper than the Trimetric. 🙂

All true about Victron and it looks better too!:B

[mena661]

BFL13 wrote:
I should have known that Mena got a Victron instead of a Trimetric because it costs less, and not as claimed, because it does some weird Peukert thing! 🙂

The secret's out! :B Almot, I wouldn't rate the Victron below the Trimetric in features. It has features the Trimetric doesn't like the aforementioned Peukert exponent setting (think Lithium Ion...is there Peukert?) and various alarm settings. I liked the small physical size too. And it was cheaper than the Trimetric. 🙂

[Dakzuki]

I would buy wiring and charge controller for at least double the wattage you are currently buying for expansion at a later date. I think you are going to find with 4 batteries you want more wattage and will be adding more panel(s).

[CVD]

All - Thanks to all for the responses. For now, I'll forgo an extra display and just monitor the setup via the voltage meter.

Almot wrote:
...Tell them to keep Z-mounts, those are useless for RV installations... .

OK, what do I look for in mounts for a fiberglass RV roof?

Almot wrote:
...Morningstar is a reputable brand, but from looking at brief description I can't see what is the bulk voltage and whether it is a 3-stage and if so what are the setpoints...

I found the datasheet on the Morningstar support page. It says "Charging stages: Bulk, absorption, float, equalize" Sounds like a Bulk, plus 3 stage controller.

"Regulation Voltage" is listed at 14.4v for flooded cell batteries, I'm guessing this is bulk voltage.

I suppose all I care about is" 1) is bulk high enough to fully charge the batteries, and 2) does the float stage kicks in properly and prevent overcharging when it sits in storage in the summer sun.

http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/support/library/SunSaverENG_R3_5_12web1.pdf

[BFL13]

I should have known that Mena got a Victron instead of a Trimetric because it costs less, and not as claimed, because it does some weird Peukert thing! 🙂

[Almot]

BFL13 wrote:
Where is the Victron for $130?

Was a while ago. I see Victron for $148 now.

Yes, controller with built-in display is cheaper, and yes, you won't see that display from the inside of the rig, because controller is usually mounted close to batteries. But then again, you don't need to see it every hour or even every day. Go to the closet where it's sitting in, and have a look if you don't have anything better to do 🙂

With a voltmeter that the OP has, he doesn't need any additional display. Current out of controller is about the only useful value to watch, and not terribly important. This is just something to play with, to keep you busy. If and when something happens to panels or wiring and current stops flowing in, the battery voltage will tell the truth. Then you grab a multimeter and go find what's wrong.

[RJsfishin]

Hopefully you right, but there are connections too,.....just a thought anyway.
Sides that, I've always been an ammeter nut !

[BFL13]

RJ I never thought of one panel quitting out of the two in parallel. I would know because the Trimetric in amps would give me a clue as you say. But OTOH the panels are supposed to be good for twenty years or so, which should mean the chance of one quitting is not great?

[RJsfishin]

Ever heard of ebay,.....all for 15 bucks

I disagree w/ others. If your 1 of 2 panels quit, how are you going to know that w/o an ammeter ?

[Snowman9000]

Almot,

The Turnigy doesn't need a shunt. There is one built into it.

The Morningstar SunSaver is 14.4v at 77F, and is temp-corrected above and below that. Float is 13.whatever, I can't recall exactly. However, the temperature sensor is local, not remote, so the controller should be mounted near the batteries.