Forum Discussion

slotsavegas's avatar
slotsavegas
Explorer
Apr 02, 2015

Domectic Fridge in Stand-Alone mod

I took my RM2862 fridge out of my RV and would like to run it on AC power only for a period of time while it is sitting in my garage.
I have access to 120V but it appears it must also need 12V for the controller board(s).
Does anyone have a suggestion for how to get 12V attached without having to bring a 12V battery into the garage ? I don't want to have to remove one from either my RV or my vehicles during this test period.
I was hoping someone knew of a way to attach a 110V-12V adapter or something similar to the 12V leads.
Also, what are the AMP's needed, as an adapter may not be a solution if only a few milliamps can be provided. Maybe attach a 12V battery charger alligator clip directly to some 12-14 gauge wire pigtails.

Thanks for any help.
  • sch911's avatar
    sch911
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    Find an old power brick from a retired rechargeable device that outputs 12V and you're set. I keep a box of old bricks just for that purpose.
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Apr 02, 2015
    Yeah, a wall wart will work fine. 1 amp would be perfect, a 750 ma will do, and it would most likely work with a 500 ma one, though the interior light might need to be removed.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Apr 03, 2015
    Chris can say with more certainty, but I wonder if you'd need to baffle the back of it so a convection is set up through the coils. The install instructions want very little clearance between coils and inside wall of the coach. I'd guess that another way would be to back it up close to a wall, or leave a fan blowing onto the coils.

    But I don't think I'd want you to run an automotive battery charger straight to the 12VDC leads of the Fridge's Logic Board. An ordinary charger tends to run at too high a voltage unless loaded down/stabilized by a Battery.

    sch - I've got a box of Warts and Bricks I about can't lift. But I've been able to save the day a few times, thanks to it!
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Apr 03, 2015
    It should work fine free standing- in open air ventilation really isn't an issue.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Apr 03, 2015
    There's The Word from The Man! Sounds like our OP has all he needs to run this like he wants.

    In our first C, we replaced an old Dometic RM763 with a 2852. I don't understand why they're a DM model sometime (other than to express DoMetic) and RM model other times. Anyhow, I checked specs against measurements and was sure I could get the 2852 INTO the coach. Getting the 763 out was easy, but I had to take doors/hinges off the 2852. There was a removable side piece in the fridge niche, but I had to remove some light aluminum framing and take the top baffle out. The ceiling was the "baffle" for the new one. I had to cut the top of the opening to mount it.
  • SoundGuy's avatar
    SoundGuy
    Explorer
    Apr 03, 2015
    j-d wrote:
    In our first C, we replaced an old Dometic RM763 with a 2852. I don't understand why they're a DM model sometime (other than to express DoMetic) and RM model other times.


    I suspect the DM series has fewer features, offered by Dometic because that's as much as the trailer manufacturer is willing to pay for the unit and has contracted for. We had an RM model Dometic in a previous travel trailer and like many of these fridges it had a climate control heater with a switch that would allow turning the system off when dry camping - i.e. powering the trailer on battery power alone. Our current trailer has a DM series Dometic fridge and although it does also have a climate control heating element there is no way to turn it off ... so I added my own. The devil is often in the details. :W
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Apr 03, 2015
    The reason for the DM designation is that Dometic serial numbers use the first three numerals from the date- first numeral is year, second two are week. The 2652 and 2852 have been built for over 10 years, so they started having overlapping serial numbers. Hence the change to DM rather than RM.

    The actual replacement for the 763 is the RM2620 "Classic", but as long as you can remove the extra side piece for a full width model, you're better off with the larger model. FWIW, the RM2820 "Classic", which is a direct replacement for many older models is no longer available.
  • SoundGuy's avatar
    SoundGuy
    Explorer
    Apr 03, 2015
    Chris Bryant wrote:
    The reason for the DM designation is that Dometic serial numbers use the first three numerals from the date- first numeral is year, second two are week. The 2652 and 2852 have been built for over 10 years, so they started having overlapping serial numbers. Hence the change to DM rather than RM.


    Chris, thanks for that explanation, makes sense! ... now I know I can figure out when my current DM unit was built. :)

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